Which fire extinguisher and how are you mounting it

[Shimmy]

Sure appreciate the input on these. Was it that the operator couldn't get it to work or it didn't put out the fire or ? Thanks. Looking for something that wouldn't leave a total disaster but 1/3rd the cost. As I'm reviewing more possibilities I'm seeing that typical 5# A, B, C type extinguishes fail quite often also, with the needle in the green.

Makes it tougher to choose for sure.

thx

It was a few years ago when i saw it in live action. The guys brake line burst and sprayed on the downpipe igniting... I just remember he had this element extinguisher and was immediately told it "wasn't approved" for the track. He proceeds to use it while the instructor reaches into the back seat and grabs a kidde or whatever it was. The element extinguisher just wasn't putting out the fire. it just kept coming... The instructor sprayed the fire and it went out immediately.

Could he given the element more time to work maybe it would have done its job? it just seemed like it wasn't working well and the poor guy was watching his engine go up in flames. Maybe the fire was too big (didn't seem like it tho)? Its certainly better than nothing, but i'm not sure i'd trust it over a traditional automotive extinguisher. i'm no fireman tho.

 

[nvrstuk]

Thx!!

 

[Bruners4]

I'm shopping for a new fire extinguisher also. The Buckeye 70251 is interesting as I've been around Halon systems and seen them go off. So, I checked what the description was for this item, very impressive indeed! But one of the standard features listed is "Not suitable for use on fires involving cooking oil and grease". Knowing how the Halon systems worked and this standard feature, I think that my choice today is a standard dry chemical extinguisher. And I've already ruled out the Element.

https://absupply.net/buckeye-70251-halotron-i-fire-extinguisher-w-vehicle-bracket-25-lb-capacity-2bc.aspx

 

[Slowleak]

I'm shopping for a new fire extinguisher also. The Buckeye 70251 is interesting as I've been around Halon systems and seen them go off. So, I checked what the description was for this item, very impressive indeed! But one of the standard features listed is "Not suitable for use on fires involving cooking oil and grease". Knowing how the Halon systems worked and this standard feature, I think that my choice today is a standard dry chemical extinguisher. And I've already ruled out the Element.

https://absupply.net/buckeye-70251-halotron-i-fire-extinguisher-w-vehicle-bracket-25-lb-capacity-2bc.aspx

That refers to cooking oils and grease used in commercial kitchens which are a class K combustible. A dry chemical extinguisher is not recommended for that either.
Gasoline is class B. Halotron is commonly used in racing, boating, and in aircraft, but not in kitchens and restuarants. It is used for the same type of fires as an ABC (dry chemical) extinguisher…it is FAA and Coast Guard tested and approved for airports, planes, and boats…

Halotron — Testing Approvals and Specifications

AMPAC’s Halotron Division manufactures halocarbon based clean fire extinguishing agents with commercial, industrial, maritime and military applications.

www.halotron.com

 

[ssray]

How many dry chemical A, B , C type ext don't work because like in the video, the needle is on green but it still doesn't work??? Carry one E50 and two 5#'s and use the E50 first so if it works there's no clean up and if it doesn't you can hope that 1 of your 2 chemical ones do work????

Wonder if keeping a dry chem horizontal would be better than vertical to keep it from packing on the bottom where the tube is? And then rotate it 180 several times a year if you could just remember to do it. Maybe reminders in the phone.

Dry chemical extinguishers need tested and hydro’d every 12 years. My buddy that does it for a living says that’s not often enough. He does his personal ones every 5 but he is a paranoid retired fireman lol.

Hydro’d ??? If you just need to inspect, it wouldn’t be so bad if the chemical could be reused but I don’t know if they can bleed the pressure slowly somehow. If it still has some nitrogen pressure everything should be dry inside.

I was thinking the element would be good for an electrical fire under the dash. Wouldn’t make a mess and if you got the power off it should last long enough get things cooled down. Might even keep a hot wire from open flame long enough for it to melt and break the connection?
The mention of throwing dirt on a fire makes me think having a container of dirt as a backup might be a good idea. Spread some clean dirt out on a piece of plastic in the sun and get it as dry as you can. Would make it easy to throw on a fire with a cup and should flow and cover better. A backup or aid to dry chem if it failed with engine fires if you get to it quick enough.

 

[1969]

I know a few guys that have these…

https://www.rusoh.com/products/eliminator-abc