Painless Harness Parking Light Question on a 1974

[JeepGuy]

Hello,

I can remember reading a thread on here with the same issue, but I cannot find it currently... so here it goes...

Fiiinnnnaaaallllllllllyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy Finishing up with the painless harness install. New headlight switch came with the kit. I've compared the switch to the one pictured in the painless manual, and checked the wiring location of the connections from the harness to the switch, and it all appears to be pinned correctly.

While testing the system, as soon as I hook up the ground, all the parking lights come on (battery installed, positive cable connected with 10amp charger connected, battery ground not connected to battery, 10 amp charger ground cramped on that cable away from batter per painless recommendations).

Head lights, high beams, dimmer, and dash lights all function properly.

I did not paint the back of the dash, and prior to installing the painless ground, I sanded off what overspray was at the ground location. I've also installed a 6ga. ground from that same dash spot to the frame.

Kind of stumped here, thinking maybe the new switch is bad??

Also, side question: I've installed a Winters shifter, and have no need for the gear indicator light (2 wires). I've already hooked up the neutral safety and parking indicator switches and they function as expected. Can I just leave the gear indicator light terminated in the harness without capping off the wires? Or should I somehow seal it off at length (thinking of possible shifter change in the future where the gear light might actually be helpful). I would imagine one of them has to be hot when the parking lights or dash lights are on.

Any help is appreciated.

 

[JeepGuy]

Update.... Bad head light switch. Got lucky and the local Napa had a couple in stock. Works as it should now.

Sad part is that means the one I got with the painless kit was bad out of the box.

 

[Torkman66]

Glad you found the issue. It sucks when you have to diagnose a bad "new" part. Good job narrowing it down. That switch is the brains behind nearly everything that lights up. I am also not using the gear indicator light wires. I suggest cutting them to about 4" length, fold one back on itself so the ends cannot touch, and then put some heat shrink over the two wires. Tuck it away for future use.

 

[DirtDonk]

I wonder if Painless is willing to replace the switch. Did you keep the bad one?
Although it doesn’t happen all the time, it’s been happening more and more with all the manufacturers. Not just Painless.
Even if they don’t pay for your new one, some of the companies might send you a replacement. Then at least you’ll have a spare, even if it sits on the shelf for 30 years!

 

[JeepGuy]

I wonder if Painless is willing to replace the switch. Did you keep the bad one?
Although it doesn’t happen all the time, it’s been happening more and more with all the manufacturers. Not just Painless.
Even if they don’t pay for your new one, some of the companies might send you a replacement. Then at least you’ll have a spare, even if it sits on the shelf for 30 years!

I do have it. Replacement was 40 bucks that could definitely go right back into the Bronco.

 

[JeepGuy]

Glad you found the issue. It sucks when you have to diagnose a bad "new" part. Good job narrowing it down. That switch is the brains behind nearly everything that lights up. I am also not using the gear indicator light wires. I suggest cutting them to about 4" length, fold one back on itself so the ends cannot touch, and then put some heat shrink over the two wires. Tuck it away for future use.

The more I think about it... I plan on building a center console and could easily use that pre-run for a cup holder light or other. I just wasn't sure if them being left open would disrupt anything. The heat shrink is a great idea.

 

[Torkman66]

Crazy. Just started a different thread with similar issue. Remembered your issue and reread it. I’ve just finished painless install with the new switch. Added power with charger just as instructed. Headlights came on and off. Flashing. Ammeter on charger going back and forth from 0 to 10 amps. Sure seems similar to your issue. Did you test switch at all or just buy a new one?

 

[DirtDonk]

I stopped using anything but ancient battery chargers long ago.
Most battery chargers in the last 30 years or more seem to have very sensitive circuit breakers inside them. I haven’t had any luck using that type of battery charger for simple testing.
I have however, had very good luck just giving the wires very close once over, to make sure nothing obvious is out of place, then just connecting the battery.
Frankly, almost everything is fuse protected that could be damaged. so very little chance of real harm.
I leave sensitive electronics disconnected till the very end, but other than that, I just use the battery.

 

[JeepGuy]

Crazy. Just started a different thread with similar issue. Remembered your issue and reread it. I’ve just finished painless install with the new switch. Added power with charger just as instructed. Headlights came on and off. Flashing. Ammeter on charger going back and forth from 0 to 10 amps. Sure seems similar to your issue. Did you test switch at all or just buy a new one?

I'm a horrible electrician so I narrowed everything down I could, and then just bought a new one to basically test my theory. Plan was simple. If I reconnect and test and it still has the same problem, then I figure the switch would be good and I messed something up on the back side of the dash that would not be an easy fix. I was elated that was not the case.

 

[Torkman66]

Yep, those are my thoughts as well. Getting new switch this morning. Thanks. I’ll let you all know how it goes.

 

[Torkman66]

Fixed it. Long writeup in my other post. Basically, the Painless headlight switch was not wired correctly. Rewired it and everything works (after also tracking down a short that I caused).

 

[DirtDonk]

Was the switch connector pre-wired in the kit? Wrong pin locations?

 

[Torkman66]

Yes sir.

 

[DirtDonk]

I guess that's more feedback for Painless then.
I should compile a list. Maybe create a special thread for tidbits for them to update. Even to include the misspeeled words!

I think Eric is back at Painless now, after a year or three's hiatus. I might try contacting him first, to see what the best communication route to take might be.

Paul

 

[Torkman66]

Good idea. I would add that wires on passenger side through firewall are great length with plenty of room to reach headlights and maneuver wires where needed. However wire length to headlights on drivers side need to all be 12” longer. They just barely make it when you tuck harness up under fender.

 

[DirtDonk]

Ok, another thing to note then.
Wire length on driver's side.
1. Don't power up until you have bulbs in the running lamp sockets.
2. Correct spelling errors. (of minor importance, but still it's "a thing" for me.
3. Re-think the lack of a protective fuse on the main 10ga power wire to the fuse panel.

I know that, unlike the original, all accessory power goes through the fuse panel first, before going out to do their things. But what is actually protecting that wire? We don't worry about the little accessories, because they have fuses. But where does the main charging loop go, as it's passing through the ammeter?
Seems an awful long bit of wire to leave unprotected. Even ford protected it with a fusible link! Centech did it too, and Painless traditionally included a Maxi-Fuse with ALL of their vehicle chassis harnesses.
Wonder what changed their minds?

Paul

 

[Oldtimer]

Eventually Ford added fusible link.
68 is 10ga from alternator to battery.
The weak link is the bullet connector near the ammeter.

 

[DirtDonk]

Good to know! I wonder why they let it go so long, while still using an ammeter?
They were using fusible links before that I think. Or maybe it was GM I'm thinking of? Guess I'll have to do some research.
But with all the issues associated with ammeters in the past, I'm surprised it took them so long. And surprised that Painless is not following suit with a fuse!

Thanks again, for your most valuable details.

Paul

 

[Torkman66]

I would add a section on wiring with a 1 wire alternator as well. There are several posts asking about what to do with 915 and 916. They should address those questions.
Overall, however, it is a very nice harness. Great quality wire, well marked, and good directions. I’d definitely use painless again.