Opinions on Rust Bullet versus other anti-rust tricks?

[SpudBoy]

Just getting an opinion from folks as to the pros & cons of using Rust Bullet, or another anti-rust coating. I am specifically wondering about peoples direct experiences. Does it work as advertised, and how easy/difficult is it to work with or around when you want to spot treat paint issues. Can you successfully paint over it, does it need extensive prep (your opinions not the "propaganda"), can you sand over an area treated with the product without causing a problem, etc.

 

[Madgyver]

I tried rust bullet. Hard to get where I'm at. I now use ospho after a good cleaning and prep of the metal. And then brush paint with PPG Amerlock and Cure for frame, bumpers, floorpans, axles, cross member, etc. anything that it can protect under rig.

 

[scoutingranch]

Por-15. Been using it for decades. But......in my business the metal needs to be clean enough to eat off of before treatment. Prior to applying, doing a rough up referred to
as "tooth" is needed on the metal. It gives the treatment areas to grab on to.
Doing it right the first time means not needing to go back a second. Take your time, listen to the first Pretenders album and get with it. Maybe some Blink-182

 

[fordguy]

Por-15. Been using it for decades. But......in my business the metal needs to be clean enough to eat off of before treatment. Prior to applying, doing a rough up referred to
as "tooth" is needed on the metal. It gives the treatment areas to grab on to.
Doing it right the first time means not needing to go back a second. Take your time, listen to the first Pretenders album and get with it. Maybe some Blink-182

same here on length of use of POR-15, just used some on some spots on a hard top. I do better listening to classic vinyl or Margaritaville station on XM.

 

[hyghlndr]

Hate por15, best so far is good epoxy primer and plain old rustoleum paint. Then fluid film key areas when done.

 

[ntsqd]

Rust Bullet, POR-15, and Amerlock (I *think*) are all variations on Moisture Curing Polyurethane Coatings. RB and POR-15 are for sure. Some require a top coating, like POR-15, and some do not. Those that need a top coat usually do so because UV light causes them to craze and degrade. I'm under the impression that Rust Bullet is one that doesn't require a top coat. Unlike most coatings, these need moisture in the air for the best cure. POR-15 seems to be very sensitive to the prep work. If it isn't exactly what it needs to be the coating doesn't perform nearly as well as it could.

Top coating of these should be done when they are in the tacky stage. Doing so will slow down how fast they cure, but the result is a very durable coating.

I used Petit's version of a Moisture Curing Polyurethane Coating called Rustlok, followed by a top coat of their Easypoxy on a bike frame and am happy with it. It is extremely tough, but it is not a high gloss. That bike is working bike so not a high gloss is OK.

 

[Madgyver]

PPG Amerlock 2 is a base epoxy resin. PPG Cure is the catalyst/hardener.
2 parts unlike POR15 and Rust Bullet that come out of a single use can/quart.
PPG Amerlock 2 and Cure, mix what you need and use all. I still have some from 18 months ago, unmixed and still usable when mixed.
Rust Bullet and POR15 paint won't last long after being opened the first time.

 

[ntsqd]

From personal experience Amerlock still cures better in a high humidity environment than it does in a low humidity environment. In KA it is also not easily available to mere citizens. Needs to be bought by a commercial account.

The key to keeping POR-15 a long time after opening is two step; Close the lid over a sheet of cling-wrap pulled across the top of the can, and put it in the shop fridge to store it. No experience with RB.

 

[bigmuddy]

Eastwoods rust encapsulator is good stuff. If you get the quart can and don't use it all push a plastic wrap down on the surface to keep the oxygen out and make sure the lid seals good.

I am a fan of Ospho as well and then paint with a quality product. Used a lot on the salty coasts in the US.

 

[ntsqd]

MISF has been using POR-15 for 25+ years. They make a product similar to Ospho called "Metal Ready"or some name close to that. Per his extensive experiments with various paint prep surface etching products, POR really works best with their own prep compound, and not as well with Ospho or the products used in pro body shops. No idea why.

That said, I'm a fan of Ospho, too. I didn't appreciate that I was missing a step in paint prep until I tried it.

 

[hsach]

I used Rust Bullet for my frame and underside of the body. If used correctly, follow temp and humidity requirements, it works great and won't come off easily. I did go way beyond cleaning all of the surface rust though. My frame and underside were wired wheeled to clean metal......everywhere. If I had the physical means to reach the rust, I cleaned it all off. I prepped all of the metal after by applying Rust Bullet Metal Blast, same stuff as POR-15 Metal Prep, to condition the bare metal.

Now the metal is ready for Rust Bullet. I do a thin first coat because a heavy one will bubble up from the chemical stuff happening with the rust. If this happens to the first coat, sand it flat and then do a second heavier coat. I only had that happen once, and sanding it out was easy. Definitely let it dry the required amount of time in between coats, if you wait to long you can scuff it then recoat. I only do 2 coats, then I top it with KBS Blacktop Satin.

I had to redo a couple of spots where I had the Rust Bullet applied, and it is certainly tough. The KBS comes off quickly with a grinding pad, but the Rust Bullet takes a lot more work. I used a brush to paint it on, works well if you don't go too heavy. If I do it again, I will probably spray it with a cheap spray gun. Good luck!

 

[bigmuddy]

I think alot of people make the mistake of using a rust converting product on frame/parts and they clean all the rust completely off. Then they have issues with adhesion as the converter had nothing to convert. My .02 and observation.

 

[AZ73]

I've used KGS Rustseal for a decade. I use it on media blasted surfaces. It's moisture cured. Once it's on you need a grinder to get it off. I've used it on the frame, axles, floors, under body. Only real issue is it's not UV stable so you must top coat it if it's exposed and you don't want it to fade. I've also used it on my gates and fences and they've never rusted in 10 years. You can brush or spray, but if you spray you must use a proper respirator as it's moisture cured and your lungs are filled with moisture.

 

[Madgyver]

From personal experience Amerlock still cures better in a high humidity environment than it does in a low humidity environment. In KA it is also not easily available to mere citizens. Needs to be bought by a commercial account.

The key to keeping POR-15 a long time after opening is two step; Close the lid over a sheet of cling-wrap pulled across the top of the can, and put it in the shop fridge to store it. No experience with RB.

Cling wrap is too thin. When I used POR15 I would use ziplock freezer bag gallon size and place it over top flat (2 side so it is 2 layer). Use a new bag each time you open the can. After a while POR15 would thicken so you would need to reduce it and by that point the paint is different.
a base and catalyst is always a better paint than the one step paint.

 

[ntsqd]

Cling wrap has been working for MISF for 25+ years. It is definitely a one-time use thing. I think the real key might be the shop fridge storage. Cold and more importantly, very low humidity storage.

 

[SpudBoy]

Thanks to everyone so far ... as expected, almost as many opinions as there are original Broncos around! Best to go with what works best for you in your own experience, which what I kind of figured.

 

[Madgyver]

Cling wrap has been working for MISF for 25+ years. It is definitely a one-time use thing. I think the real key might be the shop fridge storage. Cold and more importantly, very low humidity storage.

my first thought at the mention of cling wrap was the Glad brand that us normal guys have in our other half's kitchen and not the industrial application type cling wrap.

 

[ntsqd]

That's what he uses, the common kitchen grade stuff. It opens back up ripped, but it does seal, once.

 

[scoutingranch]

Hate por15, best so far is good epoxy primer and plain old rustoleum paint. Then fluid film key areas when done.

That is funny you bring up Rustoleum. An excellent product (oil base). I just got in a small patio table and two chairs out of the Hollywood Hills and the owner insisted
on oil base Rustoleum. I am a huge fan of the product as well.

 

[ntsqd]

Whenever I use POR-15 I use Rustoleum for the top coating.