Where can I get this spring? (clutch linkage)

[Nothing Special]

There's a spring that goes over the "clutch adjusting rod" or "clutch fork push rod" on the stock Bronco V8 clutch linkage. It's supposed to have a hook at both ends, but the hook on the forward end (the right end in the picture below) broke off mine. Does anyone know where I can get this spring? The most likely candidate that I've found is this "clutch and emergency brake return spring" from Tom's Offroad, but the hook it shows doesn't match what I have, and the other end looks to be a lot longer, with no hook. Besides, this spring isn't a return spring, it hooks on the clutch fork and the bellcrank to keep them pulled tight against the pushrod so it doesn't drop out.

Any help would be appreciated!

 

[Oldtimer]

The stock spring on my 68 has one end straight for about 10", and hooks on the clutch fork. The other end is short, like in your photo, and hooks to the motor mount frame support.
The replacement I got from WH is also not bent on the long end. I guess you are supposed to cut to length and bend?

 

[thegreatjustino]

I've never seen or heard of this in 25+ years in the EB hobby. Furthermore, there's one hole in the clutch fork (for the return spring you linked to) and no hole in the clutch equalizer bracket for a spring. How are you proposing that this actually installs?

This type of spring was found on big block classic Mustangs, but I've never seen or heard of one on a Bronco.

Link to the Mustang spring:

https://www.cjponyparts.com/clutch-...j1nJuYBHzXFeXSESixurcT827AFXOfokaAt58EALw_wcB

 

[Nothing Special]

The end of the spring that's not broken off hooks to the hole in the clutch fork you mention. Before this spring broke it really was no longer than it is now, it basically broke at the hook. That hook was hooked over the shank of the stud where the pushrod was attached to the bellcrank. So in use the spring never changed length, it just made sure the pushrod didn't fall out of the pocket in the clutch fork.

I don't know that this is factory, but it's the way it was when I got this Bronco. And I'm pretty sure my '75 Jeep CJ5 had the same type of thing (not that a CJ5 is a Bronco...).

 

[serial car restorer]

I don't know where to get a replacement, but I can confirm that it is a thing. This is my '69...

 

[Shimmy]

I found mine at a local NAPA. no idea what the PN is tho. sorry.

 

[Oldtimer]

I6 return spring is longer than V8, so after market is cut to length.

 

[Nothing Special]

OK, so mine was definitely installed wrong. I wonder if it broke before and this was as far as it reached??? Anyway, I'll get the one I found at Tom's and hook it up (more) correctly!

Thanks all!

 

[thegreatjustino]

I don't know where to get a replacement, but I can confirm that it is a thing. This is my '69...

This is an improperly installed and size return spring. From the factory, the spring would have been much longer and the long end would utilize a hole in the engine mount bracket in a straight line rather than the hole used here on the frame to run the spring diagonally.

 

[thegreatjustino]

The end of the spring that's not broken off hooks to the hole in the clutch fork you mention. Before this spring broke it really was no longer than it is now, it basically broke at the hook. That hook was hooked over the shank of the stud where the pushrod was attached to the bellcrank. So in use the spring never changed length, it just made sure the pushrod didn't fall out of the pocket in the clutch fork.

I don't know that this is factory, but it's the way it was when I got this Bronco. And I'm pretty sure my '75 Jeep CJ5 had the same type of thing (not that a CJ5 is a Bronco...).

Then where was your return spring located?

 

[serial car restorer]

This is an improperly installed and size return spring. From the factory, the spring would have been much longer and the long end would utilize a hole in the engine mount bracket in a straight line rather than the hole used here on the frame to run the spring diagonally.

Makes sense. How about this one? I found it in with some of the other stuff that came with the rig. I just went out and swapped it in. It's even covered with undercoating, same as the transmission and bell housing.

 

[thegreatjustino]

Makes sense. How about this one? I found it in with some of the other stuff that came with the rig. I just went out and swapped it in. It's even covered with undercoating, same as the transmission and bell housing.

Appears to be the correct one. According to the chart Oldtimer posted, the spring should have 42 coils. Difficult to count in the photo, but looks correct.

 

[Soylent]

Looks like the one I got from WH for my 69

 

[danny]

It’s not rocket science folks , just go to your local hardware store find one that ls close to same length or longer . Cut it and rebend to fit .

 

[DirtDonk]

It might be half rocket science.
Seems to me that a spring meant for the long term is hard to bend into a new shape.
I could be wrong, of course, but I think that kind of spring steel would fatigue from continued use over a shorter period of time than the original spring material would.
Either losing tension in the coils, or breaking near the created curve.
Maybe that’s just for much smaller wire diameters, though? A heavier spring might not experience this issue?

I have actually found springs at Ace Hardware that were almost identical to the factory spring.
Can’t remember if I ever used one though. My original 71 spring is still intact.

 

[Nothing Special]

It’s not rocket science folks , just go to your local hardware store find one that ls close to same length or longer . Cut it and rebend to fit .

When I thought I needed the spring to fit over the pushrod it seemed a lot better to get the right one than to try to find one with a large enough diameter, the hook bent in the right place to catch the hole in the fork and the right length and stiffness. Now that I realize it doesn't need to fit over the pushrod it makes it seem a lot easier to find one that's close enough. Still, there's some value in not having to guess and hope it's right.

That said...

Then where was your return spring located?

Turns out I don't have one. That is the only spring that's been on the clutch linkage. Where it was originally mounted it could do nothing to move the linkage, it only kept it from falling apart. And I don't know how long the spring has been broken and completely incapable of doing anything!

I guess you could ask how it worked without a clutch return spring. I don't know how it worked, but it did work well! The pedal stayed at the top of its travel, and there was just a little bit of "dead" travel at first so I knew that it wasn't adjusted so tight that it would be riding the clutch even when my foot wasn't on the pedal. So evidently the return spring isn't that important???

I will get a spring and hook it up right now that I know what "right" is. But if I end up with a heavier pedal I might try to find a weaker spring.

 

[thegreatjustino]

So evidently the return spring isn't that important???

The springs in the pressure plate that you're compressing when you press the clutch pedal will push the clutch fork and everything attached to it back into place when you let off the clutch. I still wouldn't want to run without the return spring running to the engine mount.

 

[Nothing Special]

I don't think that's it. I have the bellhousing and clutch out right now so I can't verify this, but I'm pretty sure I didn't have the throwout bearing resting against the pressure plate fingers. I'm pretty sure there was a little clearance there.

And even now with everything down-stream of the pushrod removed the clutch pedal is sitting at the top of its travel. The balance of the linkage must be holding it there because there isn't anything else that could.

But yes, I am going to put a return spring on it.

 

[thegreatjustino]

And even now with everything down-stream of the pushrod removed the clutch pedal is sitting at the top of its travel. The balance of the linkage must be holding it there because there isn't anything else that could.

It's called gravity...

When you push the clutch pedal, the associated linkage lifts the equalizer bracket up. With nothing at the transmission side to hold or overpower anything, the weight of the equalizer bracket being pulled down by gravity pushes the clutch pedal back up to the top of its swing.

 

[DirtDonk]

It’s the special sideways gravity (along with a little dose of monkey motion) that all Broncos suffer from.