Dana 20/Transfer Case Options

[callmemarsh]

So I have my coyote power train in. Fuel tank "semi mounted" and fuel parts on order from Summit. It's a 2013 5.0 with a 6R80.

I have a couple days left before Stephen deploys. He's the one paying for everything so I need to get the rest of the big items on order to. Next up, the Transfer case:

I thought about rebuilding the Dana 20 myself, but finding the time to do it has been difficult. So, I'm in the latter stages of finding a rebuilt unit. Below is a "Wish List" from Bronco Graveyard. Anyone have experience with their rebuilt units? Do y'all see anything else I need to add to the order?

Or does anyone have suggestions on other companies? Upgrades? ;D

 

[Skiddy]

I got a rebuilt one from Toms, no issues. I am sure Jeffs would be about the same.

 

[Rustytruck]

Is this an off road rig? Big beefy tires? of so you should be thinking an upgraded output shaft. And by the time and money spent you really should think about an atlas? Do you need an adapter from the 6R80 to the Dana 20?

Add up your expenses very carefully before you make a final decision. This all takes you down the rabbit hole looking for the Leprechauns pot of gold, but if you play hard with the coyote motor that Dana 20 becomes the weak link especially with the traction and leverage of big tires.

 

[callmemarsh]

Is this an off road rig? Big beefy tires? of so you should be thinking an upgraded output shaft. And by the time and money spent you really should think about an atlas? Do you need an adapter from the 6R80 to the Dana 20?

Add up your expenses very carefully before you make a final decision. This all takes you down the rabbit hole looking for the Leprechauns pot of gold, but if you play hard with the coyote motor that Dana 20 becomes the weak link especially with the traction and leverage of big tires.

It's mainly for street use, it's not gonna see much offroad use unfortunately. Not my decision btw! We're going to run 33-35" tires so I think a stock rebuild should be sufficient.

TBP and Bronco Graveyard are similar in price, but TBP is in Oregon so shipping will get a bit pricey.

I already have the adapter from Tublin

 

[callmemarsh]

I guess I need to decide if I should go with the J or T style as well.

The J has a 2.34 ratio and the T is a 2.46 ratio. Which would be better for a street application with the 6R80 6 speed and 4.11 gears?

I'm most likely going to go twin stick so the pattern doesn't really matter. Anybody have any experience running a twin stick set up mounted on the 6R80?

 

[garberz]

I guess I need to decide if I should go with the J or T style as well.

The J has a 2.34 ratio and the T is a 2.46 ratio. Which would be better for a street application with the 6R80 6 speed and 4.11 gears?

I'm most likely going to go twin stick so the pattern doesn't really matter. Anybody have any experience running a twin stick set up mounted on the 6R80?

The difference in ratio’s is for the low range. Hi range is always 1:1. The twin stick is easier to fully set up on the J style shift case. If it’s mainly a street rig, either transfer case will work fine.

Mark

 

[callmemarsh]

Gotcha. I'm talking to TBP and they will set up the rebuilt unit for the twin stick out of the box.

Now I just need to figure out which twin stick set up will require the least amount of modification to mount to the side of the 6R80.

 

[Rustytruck]

I would contact JB custom Fab.

https://jb-custom-fabrication.myshopify.com/

 

[needabronco]

Frankly a D20 is very easy to rebuild, I wouldn't pay someone else to do it. BUT if you really want to just buy everything I'd go straight to an Atlas and be done. It will certainly handle the power of the new engine.

I also highly suggest you look at regearing your axles. I can all but promise you'll never use 5th or 6th gear with 4.11s.

 

[Skiddy]

Frankly a D20 is very easy to rebuild, I wouldn't pay someone else to do it. BUT if you really want to just buy everything I'd go straight to an Atlas and be done. It will certainly handle the power of the new engine.

I also highly suggest you look at regearing your axles. I can all but promise you'll never use 5th or 6th gear with 4.11s.

yes they are simple, I had many gears chewed up in mine that they don't make anymore of course:-[

 

[661buster1963]

What are the 1 or 2 best written resourcesnon rebuilding a Dana 20? I have heard it is easy, but easy is relative and my experience is limited and have my Dana 20 in a basket, with a WH rebuild kit.

 

[sykanr0ng]

Why do people here push the Atlas transfer case for a STREET Bronco?

An NP205 is at least as strong and at least $2000 cheaper.
Low range is irrelevant in a street Bronco.

 

[callmemarsh]

Trust me I would love to go the Atlas or NP route, but it's just not in the budget for this one.

needabronco after talking to a few people and getting suggestions I went with the 4.11's with the 6R80. Apparently raptors come with 4.56 gears and the 6R80.

Also, I would love to rebuild it myself and have done all of the research. However, I just don't have the time, space or tools to do it. I'm working on this by myself in a one car garage one day a week. So I'm looking for time savings wherever I can (so long as I can convince Stephen to pay for it haha).

661buster1963 I had found a few write ups if you're interested in doing it yourself.
Pirate 4x4
Novak Guide
Classic Bronco

 

[fordguy]

i would definitely revisit the 4.11 choice

 

[callmemarsh]

i would definitely revisit the 4.11 choice

Well it wouldn't be the first time I redid something on this project. What are your suggestions?

actually I think the raptor has a 4.10 gear which is why I went with that.

 

[JB Fab]

6R80 / D20 shifter information

Thanks Rustytruck

I agree. output shaft!

We have been working with Tumblin and AA. We have them available (not on the website yet), by special order (one week lead time).
While we can do a “J” type for the 6R80, it is NOT advised, a “T” type will work much better.

With the 6R80 kit from Tumblin or AA the D20 is clocked all the up the 6th clocking position. In that position the shift-rail flags are not perpendicular to the shifter mount. The pegs that interface with the shift-rail flags, do so at an angle which is not optimal. The “T” type D20 uses spherical rod ends in the linkage that will allow misalignment and eliminate the possibility of binding.

If you don't have the option to uses a "T" type case, my recommendation would be 1 of two things:

1-Use our pre-modified stainless “T” type shift-rails in your "J" case, and use the “T” shifter, most of the Bronco houses have the shift-rails. These shift-rails have an improved profile to reduce the possibility of "popping-out"

2- cut the flags off the “J” type, cross-drill the shift-rails, use the “T” type shifter

Jon

 

[fordguy]

i am working thru gears now, but will most likely end up at 4.88s with a 4r70 and 33s. the extra two gears wont be happy i don't think with the 4.10s unless they are 35 inch tires? just sayin "measure twice, cut once" lol

 

[callmemarsh]

It has worn down 33's on it now so I'll get to see what those are like first, but 35's are the plan.

What does everyone suggest for that size tire? I was pretty confident on the 4.10's but now ya'll have me second guessing a $6,000 purchase

 

[garberz]

It has worn down 33's on it now so I'll get to see what those are like first, but 35's are the plan.

What does everyone suggest for that size tire? I was pretty confident on the 4.10's but now ya'll have me second guessing a $6,000 purchase

The 6r80 trans has two overdrive gears with the final being .69:1. With 35's I'd say you need to look at 5.13 gears. Those work good with 35's and the 4r70 trans, it has .71:1 OD.

Mark

 

[605BOLT]

6R80 / D20 shifter information

Thanks Rustytruck

I agree. output shaft!

We have been working with Tumblin and AA. We have them available (not on the website yet), by special order (one week lead time).
While we can do a “J” type for the 6R80, it is NOT advised, a “T” type will work much better.

With the 6R80 kit from Tumblin or AA the D20 is clocked all the up the 6th clocking position. In that position the shift-rail flags are not perpendicular to the shifter mount. The pegs that interface with the shift-rail flags, do so at an angle which is not optimal. The “T” type D20 uses spherical rod ends in the linkage that will allow misalignment and eliminate the possibility of binding.

If you don't have the option to uses a "T" type case, my recommendation would be 1 of two things:

1-Use our pre-modified stainless “T” type shift-rails in your "J" case, and use the “T” shifter, most of the Bronco houses have the shift-rails. These shift-rails have an improved profile to reduce the possibility of "popping-out"

2- cut the flags off the “J” type, cross-drill the shift-rails, use the “T” type shifter

Jon

To cut the flags and use the T type shifter,