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Question for bronco builders

Todd66

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May 10, 2006
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98
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Hartland twp Mi
Question for the pro's I'm building a 76 bronco body, and started building it on the stock frame, not completely welded yet and I bought a new tdk frame and it showed up. Should I finish building on existing ford frame or put it on the new frame and finish it on the new frame?
 

Torkman66

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If you want all of the door, hood, and tailgate gaps perfect (3/16") then not only should you build it on the new frame, you should completely assemble it before paint. That includes the windshield frame, grill, and hardtop if your using one. The hood gap is really a work of art to get right. Has to be perfect along the sides and match side to side, perfect at "T" where it intersects grill, perfect along back side where the hinges are (can use shims a bit), and perhaps most difficult is the height of the hood bow down each side of the fender is often not the same as the fender bow. Fixing that can be difficult. So yes, new frame, make sure you completly understand how the frame to body shims work for gap adjustments, and plan on spending two or three times longer getting gaps perfect than you think.

IMG_6577.JPG IMG_6578.JPG IMG_6579.JPG IMG_6580.JPG IMG_6583.JPG
 
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Todd66

Todd66

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May 10, 2006
Messages
98
Loc.
Hartland twp Mi
I've had it together working on the gaps for weeks, that's kinda why I was asking. I figured it would be different from one frame to another just didn't know how much. Glad I asked for sure. Only thing that's welded so far is the rear wheel wells and filler panels and quarts. A, b and the back pillars aren't welded yet. Thanks for the help. I've had the hood and fenders all together with the doors and they fit alot better then I figured they would. I'm truly in no hurry for this project to get done. I'm more concerned on quality! When this started it was going to be a driver lol, now it's going to be a real nice driver. Thanks again
 

Torkman66

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Great way to go! Just take your time and enjoy the build. I used self-tapping metal screws to hold panels together in place before welding then once perfect could spot weld the small holes. I had to add 3/8" spacers to the rear body mounts to get the door gaps right. Post some pics of the progress along the way. Would love to see it come together.
 
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Todd66

Todd66

Contributor
New Member
Joined
May 10, 2006
Messages
98
Loc.
Hartland twp Mi
Great way to go! Just take your time and enjoy the build. I used self-tapping metal screws to hold panels together in place before welding then once perfect could spot weld the small holes. I had to add 3/8" spacers to the rear body mounts to get the door gaps right. Post some pics of the progress along the way. Would love to see it come together.
You look like you did a traffic job on yours bet your proud, as you should be. Will do on the pics I have a bunch. Lol
 
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Todd66

Todd66

Contributor
New Member
Joined
May 10, 2006
Messages
98
Loc.
Hartland twp Mi
If you want all of the door, hood, and tailgate gaps perfect (3/16") then not only should you build it on the new frame, you should completely assemble it before paint. That includes the windshield frame, grill, and hardtop if your using one. The hood gap is really a work of art to get right. Has to be perfect along the sides and match side to side, perfect at "T" where it intersects grill, perfect along back side where the hinges are (can use shims a bit), and perhaps most difficult is the height of the hood bow down each side of the fender is often not the same as the fender bow. Fixing that can be difficult. So yes, new frame, make sure you completly understand how the frame to body shims work for gap adjustments, and plan on spending two or three times longer getting gaps perfect than you think.

View attachment 941035 View attachment 941036 View attachment 941037 View attachment 941038 View attachment 941039
That hood and fender is remarkable, well done! Did you cut the edge of the fender to accomplish that?
 

Torkman66

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Thanks. I had to remove all of the spot welds that hold the fender body to the fender mounting lip (where the bolts go). That was not needed to align the gap, rather to get the fender bow the same as the hood bow. It is a ton of work getting the hood gap right because every move changes the door gap as well, So a lot of trial and error. I also replaced the rear taillight corners and both rockers. Lots of small maneuvers to get everything just right.
For the door gaps, I did cut the rear quarters and moved the top edge slightly. Gaps are a big deal to me and like you, I had nothing but time. Gaps turned out really nice all the ways around.
Here are a few pics on the rear door gap work and then some of the final gaps.

IMG_6503.JPG IMG_6586.JPG IMG_6656.JPG IMG_7966.JPG IMG_7968.JPG IMG_7996.JPG IMG_7997.JPG IMG_8364.JPG IMG_8404.JPG IMG_8407.JPG
IMG_8548.JPG
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Todd66

Todd66

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New Member
Joined
May 10, 2006
Messages
98
Loc.
Hartland twp Mi
Beautiful! Yes I'm doing the exact same thing, it's alot of work but when it's done I will be rewarded. Once I figure out to post pics I will.
Your pics give me inspiration for sure. I think I'm painting ours area 51 same as my 22 badlands but of course that could change between then and now lol. I've always loved boxwood green.
 
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