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Homemade weather stripping/gasket for access panels

kman67

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Aptos
I’ve got several access panels that I want to make seals/gaskets for to keep out water and dust. These would cover the driver’s side fresh air panel, transmission tunnel panel, gas tank floor panel, and side cubbys above the rear inner fenders. I’m looking for a flat material that is water proof about 1/16 to 1/8” thick. It would need to be heat resistant for the transmission cover. What have you used or would recommend?
I’ve found:

Closed Cell Sponge Rubber EPDM 1/8 in. x 39 in. x 78 in. Black Foam Rubber Sheet:


Also:

AYTOSH Heat Resistant Silicone Sponge Foam Rubber Sheet Red, for Home Improvement Hardware Foam Seal Strip (Size :

Heat Resistant Silicone Sponge Foam Rubber Sheet Red, for Home Improvement Hardware Foam Seal Strip (Size : 500x500x3mm)

Rubber Strip with Adhesive Backing, 1/2" Wide x 1/16" Thick x 15FT Long
Weather Resistance Solid Rubber Rolls for DIY Gaskets, Crafts, Sealing, Insulation, Supports, Protection


Thanks,
Kyle
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Last edited:

Steve83

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For the tunnel cover, Ford used butyl dum-dum on the later trucks that were built that way, so that's one option, but it's messy when you pull the panel. What I use for tank access panels and for places where the butyl has degraded or a plastic component has warped is the same thing I used when I was putting up metal buildings: Tacky Tape, which isn't as messy as common black butyl, but is otherwise very similar.





If you want a tight seal without adhesion, paint & wax one surface, and apply RightStuff (or UltraBlack) to the other, and assemble them lightly - just enough for full contact while the sealer cures. The wax will make it removable from that surface, but it'll stay on the other.
 
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kman67

kman67

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Yeah, i was thinking of using some sort of glue (ruff stuff, black gasket sealer, 3M Black Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive, 08008) to glue the weather stripping to the panel.


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ba123

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Looks like you've been busy, Kyle!

NICE!

I used some clear weatherstrip adhesive when I did the custom stuff for my door/window weatherstripping. I'd recommend using that so you don't make a mess with the black stuff that sticks to everything and never comes off.

23-005X Weatherstrip Adhesive, IES, 5 oz.
 

ntsqd

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Upper SoKA
I used Right Stuff for the sender access panel.

I have read about guys using Right Stuff to make a re-usable seal by coating one side with a release agent, and then partially setting the plate in place. I've no idea how well this does or doesn't work but I've been waiting for the right situation to try it.

For something like that 1/4 panel door I would look into the various versions of Trim-Lok that has a sealing bulb on it. To use it you'll likely need to add some geometry to the opening:
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i-7zThZd6-M.jpg
 
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kman67

kman67

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Looks like you've been busy, Kyle!

NICE!

I used some clear weatherstrip adhesive when I did the custom stuff for my door/window weatherstripping. I'd recommend using that so you don't make a mess with the black stuff that sticks to everything and never comes off.

23-005X Weatherstrip Adhesive, IES, 5 oz.

Is this it? This has a product number 226:



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ba123

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Yup, that stuff! It’s fantastic and it doesn’t ruin everything it touches like the black crap.

I keep finding new uses for it too.
 

El Kabong

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Driving stuff Henry built
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For the tunnel cover, Ford used butyl dum-dum on the later trucks that were built that way, so that's one option, but it's messy when you pull the panel. What I use for tank access panels and for places where the butyl has degraded or a plastic component has warped is the same thing I used when I was putting up metal buildings: Tacky Tape, which isn't as messy as common black butyl, but is otherwise very similar.





If you want a tight seal without adhesion, paint & wax one surface, and apply RightStuff (or UltraBlack) to the other, and assemble them lightly - just enough for full contact while the sealer cures. The wax will make it removable from that surface, but it'll stay on the other.
This ^
 
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kman67

kman67

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Apr 8, 2005
Messages
178
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Aptos
For the tunnel cover, Ford used butyl dum-dum on the later trucks that were built that way, so that's one option, but it's messy when you pull the panel. What I use for tank access panels and for places where the butyl has degraded or a plastic component has warped is the same thing I used when I was putting up metal buildings: Tacky Tape, which isn't as messy as common black butyl, but is otherwise very similar.





If you want a tight seal without adhesion, paint & wax one surface, and apply RightStuff (or UltraBlack) to the other, and assemble them lightly - just enough for full contact while the sealer cures. The wax will make it removable from that surface, but it'll stay on the other.
What Wax did you use? This sounds interesting especially on wavy surfaces. I was thinking of using Ruffstuff/Ultrablack on one side, and some type of cellophane- Glad cling'n seal food wrap on the other side. Wait till it dries and peal off the cellophane.
Kyle
 

ntsqd

heratic car camper
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Upper SoKA
I use Johnson's paste wax as a release agent for epoxy bedding rifles. If epoxy won't stick to it I doubt a sealant will either. Two, sometimes three coats, hand buffed after each coat.
 

ntsqd

heratic car camper
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
5,953
Loc.
Upper SoKA
When I did this on the FSB I drilled and tapped the floor directly. Partly because it was thick enough for more than one thread, partly because I didn't then own the riv-nut tool, and partly because I 'glued' the panel down with The Right Stuff. I used Phillips head 10-32's because in BFE you can get a Phillips loose with other tools, but a socket head or a button head with a hex or torx drive pretty much requires the correct tool. That is probably sitting on the work bench at home...
 
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