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I would like them to be mostly complete, some rust is fine.

Thanks for the help! PO installed the Chevy disc conversion, but this gets me going the right direction.

I purchased new steering linkage for TBP, 3 way adjustable. When I installed the tie rods, torqued to 40ft-lbs the nut threads down way past the cotter pin hole. Yhe holes are obviously too large. The tie rods I removed were not like this. Any ideas? Are there shims I can use or is there some...

Lots of good advice. I'll let you know what I find. Thanks!

My steering feels really tight/sticky, so when you turn the wheel driving its stays turned and doesn't re-center. I installed a new Delphi PS setup, new steering linkage, tire rods, track bar, steering shaft and joints and steering stabilizer. I've not had the alignment done professionally yet...

See Craigslist post. I would rather not ship. http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/5934790661.html Thanks

Is the speedo gear pressed on or does it tighten down when you reassemble? Reason I ask, I removed my speedo cable and that gear on the tailshaft spins freely which I think is why my speedo quit working all of the sudden. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks!

Okay, I got it out with a lot of pulling and twisting. My speedo is not working is why I'm checking. The cable is free, the speedometer and odometer work properly when spun and the teeth on the gears are good. I noticed the gear inside the transfer case that the speedo cable gear engages freely...

For the life of me I can't pull the speedo cable from the t-case, and I've removed the retainer clip. The cable looks fairly new, but looks like the brass housing is a little beat up. I'm guessing PO beat it in. Any thoughts or tricks to remove? From everything I read it should just slip out...

I put a new inline metal filter before the carb and replaced the line from the pump. Problem solved! No blockage on the old stuff so I'm not sure what the deal was...

Thanks, I'll change the filter and pump to see if it fixes the issue. The pump isn't very old, but it's worth try...thanks again

Stock rebuilt 302 with edelbrock 1406 600cfm carb and a manual fuel pump. The issue is after it sits for a few days, I can't get it to start without pulling the fuel line at the carb. I have an inline glass filter before the carb so it's getting fuel. So I crank it over a bit, then pull the fuel...

Where is that front bumper from? It's awesome...

I used WD, bumped with a hammer, then vice grips...got'em all out that way. Maybe just luck...

No pcv hooked up at the port. I've not spoken to the engine builder, but I will. It's good to hear I likely don't have anything to worry about. Thanks!

I had a new 302 built basically back to stock. I have edelbrock intake, 1405 carb, msd ignition and wires, and tbp ceramic headers. after break in I am noticing the left bank is running a bit hotter. One of the exhaust ports is 440 deg f, the others are 285 to 310 and fluctuate, which I assume...

I just did driver side on mine to fix a PO front collision. Body was left on frame. I did it with front body mounts loose using clamps and then pop rivets for test fitting panels. Rivets leave small clean holes you can puddle weld, or leave them because they are not very noticeable. Take...

I'm looking for a place familiar with the early bronco. I don't need a ground up concourse resto. I want the drivetrain gone through, new wiring harness, a little body work and paint... Thanks for the help!

I had the same issue with a full stainless kit and tried everything. Disappointing with all the money spent. I cut an re-flared with the double flare kit. Had to put a torch to it for a split second to warm the metal then made up the flare. Worked great on most, but ended up just getting some...

will you ship? I will pay shipping of course...on the doors