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How sure on that initial timing are you? How many miles have you put on it? You need to put some learn miles on (200 of them). It will do some weird stuff while it learns. Mine would almost die around a corner getting on it the first few times.

I just bought a fiberglass shroud from a known vendor. Should it sit flat? I have it tight at the top, 1/4" gap on both sides and 1/2" gap on bottom. Bottom tabs are angled away and crack if i tighten. It touches fan at higher rpm. Do i have a bad one or is this the way it is? I cant really trim...

I had erratic fuel pressure after my install and it turned out i pinched return line under my aux tank. Caused a fuel pressure reg failure. Pressure gauge is a must. You're close and it will be worth it. I take it you only run the one tank?

Is it possible to gain more room between front of engine and radiator? I have a fixed blade 17”, SERP system from BC (not explorer), 3 core copper. I’m ticking the ac clutch when engaged and at the same time rubbing the fan shroud above 1500 rpm. I have no place to go but add space. 351w no...

I just removed my heater box, its got a 6 month old heater core, no fan motor. You want it? pay shipping and its yours. I'm installing vintage air

I'm doing several things leading me to changing pan out. I'm changing the pump and motor mounts, anything else while I'm there?

savage, which canton pan did you get, the bronco pan or the fox body pan? I'm looking for depth on the front of the pan for clearance

I bought a set of wild child hinges years ago. I can say that I don't think I have ever gotten them adjusted right. My doors close but like crap. Should I buy a new set of hinges and start over or should I keep trying on these. Its really starting to wear me down. Also, if anyone has any words...

gonna make 2-3X the noise too. I did it. My next fix is vintage air unit.

So, I just went TB fuel injection and while I may be able to mount up a kickdown cable, the old tube is not going to fit. The other thing that is in my way is the way I have my B&M floor shift cable connected down below. It will make for a difficult yet doable connection on a trans kick down as...

slim gets it, slim, pm me the ship to address. i use ups from phoenix.

countdown 1 week so yours if not handed off by 1-8. I just want to keep it "Free" and not Free plus shipping and handling.

I bought this distributor and put 25 miles on it before i decided to go FiTech efi. This forced me to buy a new MSD with lockable mechanical advance. Comes with plug wires but in MSD box. I still have the flamethrower box too which you can have. would rather hand it over local than pay ups cost...

Thanks for the thoughts guys, didn't think of the bad ground either.

I gave a half way look under the dash for the flasher relay and didn't find it. Where is this thing located originally? Mine is acting weird.

I would like to add that the fuel control center is attractive because it says no return line needed. What it doesn't say until you get to install instructions is that they want a vent line run back to the tank which is essentially the same thing (work-wise) as running a return line. FCC= thumbs...

Looks like you have the old tank like I do. The new one looks like it has a handhole and threaded fittings for pickup and return. Since you have yours out, can you verify that the vent and return are for hose and not threaded please?

I have an older (likely 2005-6) BC 23 gallon rear tank. Does anyone remember or have pictures of ports? I don't think they had threaded EFI In/Return back then. TIA

as long as that 2" is a body lift you should be good. Otherwise your cutting out a brace and a big hole in the hood. Its ok because hood scoops look cool. At least I think mine does.