Search results

I’m looking for same thing, but in Oregon, Washington, or Northern California. Obviously you got 1st dibs @2wheelbob, the original D44 are getting harder to come by FYI. Lots of new ones available and configurable, but spendy as well.

@ksagis i stand corrected… https://shop.wilwood.com/blogs/news/how-does-a-proportioning-valve-work#:~:text=Adjusting%20the%20knob%20or%20lever,brakes%20before%20proportioning%20is%20triggered. You are right, fronts should lock up first… I went back to Wilwood article above, memory didn’t work...

So you just splice and get another piece of sheet metal that you cut bolt holes for that align with steering column cover bolts and bolt altogether?

I forgot the most basic thing, a remote starter can bypass the solenoid as well by hooking one side to positive on battery and one side to the starter power terminal I believe, memory is fuzzy 🫠. If it cranks/starts you have bad solenoid or bad solenoid connection, or some other ignition issue...

Put a test light or multimeter on the starter connection area where power comes from battery / solenoid , use a remote starter down underneath clamped to starter power wire and make sure power is getting to the starter, both from solenoid, and down at the starter as well. Remote starter can help...

Finding brake fluid should be easy as it eats paint… you can also refill, make sure pedal is firm, and while parked and with engine / booster on, slam on the pedal as hard as you can. If you don’t have a leak or can’t find one, then you might had air in the brakes and did not bleed properly...

What he said as well ☝️, if you don’t drive it a lot, could just be dying battery. Stuck on charger and see what happens. Or go buy replacement and hook up and see if all goes away, or check if battery connectors have come loose or are dirty, etc...

I’m going to redo my wiring harness with the Painless kit, my dash has things in wrong places…. I’d love glove box moved over and need 66-68 year dash, I don’t see it for sale anywhere. Some of the holes in dash have little notches so dash components don’t spin, etc… does it have to be laser...

I’m no electron guru… but step one, go through all your grounds and check them with a multimeter… I’d worry you have a gremlin with issues moving around like that. Also some dash components actually ground to the dash itself, the dash lights inside the instrument cluster ground to the cluster...

Early broncos had vapor canister behind driver side door, was a bad design and later moved down to outside passenger frame rail near transmission crossbar, diagrams are on this site somewhere… if too low without a rollover valve they can flood with gas, most folks just put up on passenger...

This kit is $147 https://lmr.com/item/LRS-9653BK/mustang-charcoal-canister-restoration-kit-8793 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is my canister, not the kit though… https://lmr.com/item/LRS-9653B/1979-95-Mustang-50L-Motorcraft-Charcoal-Vapor-Canister Only $67 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can’t recall off top of my head, fit tightly onto tank fittings which are standard fuel line size, which is 5/16 or 3/8 pending your setup. In off-road situs or steep nose dives fuel can run up the line, or if tank is overfilled… hence the rollover valve to prevent fuel from entering canister...

Nah, I got it… I picked up on sarcasm. I think it’s good now… did another stop test to dial things in… crossing my fingers it holds up at higher speeds.

They are remanufactured… 🙄, I went out and just loosened and tightened gently like 10 times and it seems to have sealed after a 20mph stop test… it was very minor leak where I could put finger around threads and find a small amount of fluid when I looked at my finger. Hope it holds up at higher...

Better question might be is if caliper seat is not clean, it looked okay before I installed, so I need new caliper or is there a tool to fix it? Or a technique to smooth surface?

Almost done here! Just have the smallest leak at bleeder valve threads, but fearful of overdoing it. I’ve loosened/tightened back and forth a few times trying to get it to seal/seat on the caliper. Any advice or tips without having to tighten even more? Also is it okay to clamp the soft lines...

Yeah I noticed bleeder screw was M10 and not 3/8 as listed. Pulled it to check seat and put in a speed bleeder and found that… I’m guessing they oiled it to retap it as left all the metal bits and grime in the bottom and it rusted.

So got calipers swapped and warranty exchange, went to install new ones, checked seat of bleeder and found this brown funk down there blocking the valve… what is this? And is it normal? I was able to poke a hole in it, but obviously need to flush it out, or is this a faulty part and need to...

Yes, has about an 1/8” gap before bottoming out.