Brake caliper woes cont’d

[CopperBronco]

So installing new calipers… I accidentally stripped a banjo bolt, so this time I got a new caliper and put it just snug by hand, and then let brake fluid start leaking while I started to tighten down gently with a small hand held wrench… it started to strip again…

Here’s a photo of my banjo bolt in the brake fitting that would insert into the caliper… there are only 3 threads sticking out I finally noticed… this is the same length though as my previous calipers and banjo bolt. So theoretically should be fine. But you can see smallest metal shaving in the caliper… I was so careful… tightened down carefully, and only had gravity on the brake fluid and leaking fairly profusely… is this cheap parts? They are reman calipers from O’reillys.

Any advice much appreciated, about to give up and take it to a shop.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Timmy390]

Are you using copper washers?

Tim

 

[CopperBronco]

Are you using copper washers?

Tim

Yes!!! Both sides, photos don’t show that

 

[ba123]

That does not look right. ALL the threads should be showing on a banjo bolt after the Washer/Hose/Washer.

Just because it's the same, doesn't mean it's correct or doesn't mean it's on correctly.

Is the washer all the way at the bolt head? Is the hose over the hole?

And what is that big thing on the end of your hose?

 

[CopperBronco]

Thanks everyone! Went to NAPA, we discovered the reman calipers ship out of the box with a banjo bolt that’s not long enough… all of them dead wrong…

Got new banjo bolts… see photos of the shorter bolt inside caliper brand new, and bolt I just got… will this work @ba123? Still not all thread sticking out, but all parts are for 1974 K5 blazer, as I have GM disc conversion done by PO.

Also should I use thin crush washer or thick? Caliper came with thick, brake line came with thin one…

 

[Steve83]

Breaking a discussion into several threads defeats the purpose of a thread. It makes it harder for others to follow what HAS BEEN done, and WHY you're doing what you're doing. It's always better to keep it together.

 

[ba123]

That’s a weird looking hose to me, but I’ve never dealt with those calipers either. The first banjo is clearly wrong and the second looks like it would be good. I don’t understand all that mass on the hose, but it’s prob obvious when you’re putting it together.

I would use those thin ones if they came with the hose but you’re prob ok either way. Maybe measure the depth of the threads and compare to what you have left and figure out which is best.

 

[Timmy390]

The new bolts look much better....I would go with "thin for the win" on the washers

Tim

 

[CopperBronco]

Breaking a discussion into several threads defeats the purpose of a thread. It makes it harder for others to follow what HAS BEEN done, and WHY you're doing what you're doing. It's always better to keep it together.

Sorry steve, just figured when threads get 4 pages deep and moves to a separate issue maybe easier to move forward, understood though!

 

[Oldtimer]

The sealing surface on the caliper (in photo of 1st post) is not in very good shape.

 

[CopperBronco]

The new bolts look much better....I would go with "thin for the win" on the washers

Tim

Thanks!

 

[CopperBronco]

The sealing surface on the caliper (in photo of 1st post) is not in very good shape.

View attachment 906873

Yeah, taking this one out, and good eye, thanks!

 

[CopperBronco]

That’s a weird looking hose to me, but I’ve never dealt with those calipers either. The first banjo is clearly wrong and the second looks like it would be good. I don’t understand all that mass on the hose, but it’s prob obvious when you’re putting it together.

I would use those thin ones if they came with the hose but you’re prob ok either way. Maybe measure the depth of the threads and compare to what you have left and figure out which is best.

No idea why the flex hose has this much to it… but that’s how mid 70s GM lines/calipers are apparently… the two arms off of it allow it to lock into brackets off the caliper to not slip/slide around. Both new parts and old ones have same shape/form, these are GM D52 calipers.

 

[ksagis]

Yeah, that “cross” looking thing keys into a feature on the caliper to clock the banjo.

@CopperBronco, the original banjo bolt looks like it might have had 2 or 3 three threads exposed after adding the second copper washer, not surprised it stripped, particularly when considering the threads in caliper probably were incomplete close to edge of caliper.

The second banjo bolt looks fine for thread engagement. I’d probe inside caliper to be sure it’s not gonna bottom out on something.

What part number was the replacement banjo bolt you procured?

 

[CopperBronco]

Yeah, that “cross” looking thing keys into a feature on the caliper to clock the banjo.

@CopperBronco, the original banjo bolt looks like it might have had 2 or 3 three threads engaging into the caliper after adding the second copper washer, not surprised it stripped. The second banjo looks fine for thread engagement. I’d probe inside caliper to be sure it’s not gonna bottom out on something.

What part number was the replacement banjo?

Yeah, only 2-3 threads… what’s amazing is PO install had same way and it didn’t leak… same short banjo .

These were from Napa and O’reilly, both had too short of banjo bolt. The replacement banjo is Napa #82701… a 7/16-20 x 1.375 banjo, whereas caliper (part #2225XA & B) came with around 15/16 to 1” banjo.

I wish new banjo came with flanged head to crush copper washer vs being a hex head… but assuming this doesn’t really matter.

 

[CopperBronco]

I’ll add I did measure into caliper and new banjo goes all the way in with thin crush washers and leaves around a 1/16 to 1/8” gap. With thick crush washers you’d get maybe 3/16 to 1/4” gap at end of threads.

 

[ksagis]

Yeah, only 2-3 threads… what’s amazing is PO install had same way and it didn’t leak… same short banjo .

These were from Napa and O’reilly, both had too short of banjo bolt. The replacement banjo is Napa #82701… a 7/16-20 x 1.375 banjo, whereas caliper (part #2225XA & B) came with around 15/16 to 1” banjo.

I wish new banjo came with flanged head to crush copper washer vs being a hex head… but assuming this doesn’t really matter.

You added 8 threads, should be fine now as long at it doesn’t bottom out.

I’ll add I did measure into caliper and new banjo goes all the way in with thin crush washers and leaves around a 1/16 to 1/8” gap. With thick crush washers you’d get maybe 3/16 to 1/4” gap at end of threads.

Not sure I follow this post. Is this the clearance to bittoming out?

 

[CopperBronco]

You added 8 threads, should be fine now as long at it doesn’t bottom out.



Not sure I follow this post. Is this the clearance to bittoming out?

Yes, has about an 1/8” gap before bottoming out.

 

[CopperBronco]

So got calipers swapped and warranty exchange, went to install new ones, checked seat of bleeder and found this brown funk down there blocking the valve… what is this? And is it normal?

I was able to poke a hole in it, but obviously need to flush it out, or is this a faulty part and need to exchange again?

Last photo is after I poked hole and sucked out what I could with shop vac and tiny hose extension.

 

[Wild horse 75]

The quality of remanufacturing varies widely. I would be taking that caliper back that has the sludge in the bleeder screw hole. The cores that these companies get are in varying states of garbage. Broken bleeder screws that they have a hell of a time removing. Stripped banjo bolt holes and the likes. They’ll usually drill out broken bolts and got with the next size up for bleeder screws which is why you can have 2 calipers that are the same but have different bleeder screws. Then I’ve seen all kind of sorcery when it comes to banjo bolt holes. Usually none of it any good. Always carefully inspect them when you pick them up and just leave anything at the part store that doesn’t look right. And for the copper washers thinner is better.