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I just did my unit bearing on my dodge and they come in the same yellow box with a box inside that said Timken, so far, no problem. We'll see if they last, only reason I changed them was doing a brake job and a 97 dodge Cummins which has the unit bearing pressed on the rotor.

Has the track bar ever been off or is it the original one? If it's never been replaced, it's probably rusted on the bolt. You could use a Sawzall to cut the bolt on the inside of the bracket on both sides of the track bar.

The blue box in mine was changed and I'm not sure if it was points first then changed to electronic.

Hey Paul, I bought the wrench to install the sender, it was so easy now to take on and off, great product!!!

The rotor should fit a stock distributor. I just did some upkeep on my 74 with a 302 and got a cap and rotor kit from AutoZone (Duralast Gold Ignition rotor F2103G) the rotor seems to be tight, but it will slide on. You just need to tell them you need it for a 77 Bronco. I have the duraspark...

Ya, in my case, no doors, top, spare tire. I can see it measuring high. But in jake2077 case, it's kind of suspicious it would be that high, even with foreign metal;). Has he put his top, doors, spare tire, fuel tank and interior in first to see if it goes down a little bit?

Could the rear leave been miss marked and are actually 5 1/2-inch lift. I'm wondering that about my Tom's 3 1/2-inch lift I have, and mine was the 9 leaf rear springs.

The fuel sender was from Wildhorse, the web site showed it as the long float arm, but talking to Paul he was not sure if it would have the long float arm, but it ended up being the long arm. I did have to play around to get the full ohms close, by bending the arm where it contacted the stop and...

Well got the new sender in and it reads a little over after refill the tank and wright on empty when tank was drained. So, I'm happy with that and that's on my autometer gauge and it's dead on the factory gauge.

The sender was reading correct for empty ohms but was way off on full ohms. I first tweaked it with ohm meter, then went out and checked it on the gauge (factory one) and then the auto meter gauge that I installed, since I only have the one tank, I hooked my gauges to the tank switch so I can...

I did bend the swing arm down by the stop points, first to get my ohms close which I got 10.9 to 73.9 ohms, and then bent the arm up by the s-bend to get my empty and full close. I match the swing with my old sender.

Well Paul, it was a long arm on the float. It did take some tweaking to get it in the ohms range, but we got it close. I'll install it this weekend to see how close I got it.

Here's a couple of pics of the bends, I hope it helps.

The James Duff arms that I have, have two bends so everything lines up with no pressure on any end of the arm.

I hear you. Once I get healed up from my knee replacements, I want to replace the tank with a larger one. But till then, I don't want the wife to run out of gas (Happy wife happy life) just kidding don't teller her I said that;)

Hey Paul, the reason I decided to send it back was the float arm on the new sender. It was about a 1 1/8 shorter and I was not sure if it would give me different readings. The one on your online picture has the longer float arm.

Well, I decided to send it back and order one from Wild Horses. Hoping the ohms will be pretty close to the one I'm sending back. The short float was bugging me:oops:

Thanks, I measured from the center of the tube and mine measured 3-inch drop. The only difference is my float arm, it measures at 3 7/8.

How long is the arm, from the pivot point to the star of the curve for the float.

I checked the ohms and this sender is pretty close at 10.6 for the full ohms and 79.6 for the empty mark, I'm more concerned on the short float arm and shorter pickup.