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I have for sale a 1977 Ford Bronco "frame off" restoration. The body has been removed taken down to bare metal and coated with LineX. 4" Suspension lift, 2" body lift, rear disc brakes, rebuilt rear axle 4:ll gears, 33X12.5 BF Good rich mud terrains, rebuilt transfer case, rebuilt C4...

I had the same problem when I was living in Mississippi. I installed a 4 core radiator, transmission cooler, and a fan shroud. That did the trick for me.<br><br>Scott

I went out to about 12 different body shops and talked with the owner/managers. The cheapest quote i got was $1500. and a few of the other shops advised against going to that particular body shop. Of course all the other shops wanted about $3000. So I went to the local Line-X dealer and he...

I had my eb coated with Line-X inside and out. Love it, the stuff will not tear like some of the other softer liners. It also looks alot better.<br><br>Scott

I've been running my bronco that way for a few years now, with no problems. Hopefully next year I will get upgraded to front brakes, of course I say that every year ;D<br><br>Scott

When I installed my 5.0 out of a 97 mountaineer, i didn't make any changes to it. Even the stock exhaust manifolds worked perfectly. I did have to drill out the dowel pin holes in the bell housing, for the engine to mate to the tranny. Make a hose for the powersteering. Have O2 sensor bosses put...

If you can find someone to do it cheap, let them do it. Sandblasting is very dirty work. If you decide to do it your self, Forget the sandblasting hood it just gets in the way. You will definately need a coupe sets of goggles, ear plugs, respirator, and gloves. If you live in a high humidity...

<br><br>If you have access to a welder you could build an "A" frame and use a come along type hoist. The metal cost about $40. I was able to lift the body off and back on by myself this way. But if I had 6 people who were willing to help, I would have tried that instead. Good luck.

I am in the process of installing E-Brake cables on my rear disc TSM kit. As you can see the springs are too long so I will have to cut them. But I am wondering should I build a bracket and mount a spring that will pull the bracket back to the release position? Or just just use the spring on the...

Semprbronc,<br>I did quite a bit of research before using the current ATF I am using. The Valvoline synthetic is suitable for Mercon III (GM) Mercon and Mercon V (FORD). Even though all my manuals say I should be running Type F. I went with the Mercon/DexronIII blend because it flows well in...

I run Mobil 1 in the engine, Valvoline sythetic dexron III in the C-4 , Mobil 1 75-90w in the differentials and transfer case. The synthetics cost more, but I figure they are worth it in the long run. <br><br>Scott

Sounds like you had a very interest project. I get the feeling you don't like Haynes though. I used a Haynes manual to rebuild my Tranny and Transfer case. They were helpful but could've been a little more informative. The only reason I went with Haynes was because at the time (6 yrs ago), it...

I have the same problem, I've been through the complete wiring harness 3 times and still can't figure it out. So for now I installed a battery disconnect switch. I even pulled fuses one at a time and checked the amp draw at the battery to see if I could pinpoint it that way, but no luck. <br>...

I think you should paint it Hot Pink ;D

Thanks alot guys. I think I will run the two sensors before the cat to be on the safe side. I called ford to get the sensors and they want the vin# off the Mountaineer, unfortunately I don't have it. So, I hope I can get by with a universal oxygen sensor.<br><br>Scott

I have a 5.0 out of a 97' mountaineer. Which has the EEC IV computer. The wiring diagram shows 4 oxygen sensors, two before the cats and two after. I am currently not running any. But I am a little concerned wether I should or not, and if I should, do I need all four sensors?<br>Any...