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Hate to say it but from the look of the photo you were trying to press the ball joint out the wrong way. The knuckle looks bent to me. I could be misinterpreting what is see. That positioning would be how to press the ball joint in. To press them out you would start from the bottom side of the...

You are right Gorillas don't have the indentations that way you can decide placement and spacing of attaching hardware. Pretty sure those are the old Bushwacker Duraflex 2000 Jim.

Here's an oldie but goodie. Jim

That grille made me go stare at my 21. I only lack one thing, the paint skills. This defiantly hits the mark for the Stroppe nostalgia. I like the non-trail site idea too. I swapped mine for the Quake turn signal lights. Jim

You got it! Thanks for the business Jim

Take the column out, it will cause far less pain, unless you are going to install a custom lower slip shaft such as our #2161 seen here. https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/custom-early-bronco-lower-steering-shaft It's way easier to take the column out no matter which way you go. As for the question...

I think you may have #2388 which would be used for tie rod over. Sent you DM. Jim

Here's a maybe https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/early-bronco-m1a1-fuel-tank-sending-unit Check dimensions. Jim

11.75 down and 6.5 from kick panel. This is on the only Bronco I measured. Start with a small hole to make sure position works and go up from there. Final hole size about 1-1.25" Jim

I think the seat belt bolt holes is what you are looking at. They are installed with most of the complete platforms but not with the patch panels. It looks like you are doing panels so keeping them would be the way to go. Jim

https://www.compcams.com/evolution-lifters/ I like these with the roller cam. Jim

These are fun and double as an additional turn signal. 6G stuff :eek: https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/quake-led-rgb-trail-sight-delete-sequential-turn-signal-kit

Back in the day the bar that the cam lock latched to was adjustable for proper tension. You would move the bar towards the Bronco. What does yours look like where the cam lock locks on? Jim

Options: 1. Trim the panel to fit around the top when it's on. This is the best option IMO since you are trimming these anyway to fit your flares or lack of flares. 2. We have seen people use flat bar on the top of the quarter and windshield frame for proper gap. Seems like a lot of extra work...

We left the mounting options up to the end user. I think most people will like the counter sunk method. They can take a solid smack and save your quarters if you are rock crawling. https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/early-bronco-body-armor-rear-quarter-panels-tail-housing

Routing to rear of bronco is installers choice. Ford ran it down the inside of the driver frame. Crawler like running it on top of the frame to keep it out of the way. For the volt meter +(positive) post to power in start and run position. No power in off position. - (negative) post is...

Thanks for the shout out! Just a few more options. Here's a dark brown and Gator , my favorite. They are all made to order, everyone is custom. Not limited to what you see on the site. https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/headbangers-custom-roll-bar-pad?Category_Code= Jim

To add to what's already been suggested I like to remove the rear driveshaft altogether and just use front drive to verify the issue. Real clutch chatter will still show up with the rear driveshaft removed. Jim

Right, not a back up camera in the sense that it comes on when you shift into reverse. This unit is always on looking out the rear and has super good peripheral view. Jim

The rear view mirror is the camera view. Way better than what you would see out of a regular mirror. You can actually see instead of having the blind spots. It's also recording incase you get rear ended. Jim