PSC hydraulic Ram Assist Install

JohnJohn · Nov 8, 2016

My canned ham Saginaw power steering pump could not keep up with my Humvee H1 heavy beadlocks with 37's a few weeks ago so I decided to add a ram assist.
My total spend will be around $400 if this works out the way I planned. I thought I would post my progress.

Here is the list of parts:
- 2 RED ANODIZED ALUMINUM 6-AN AN6 3/8"ADAPTER FEMALE FLARE CAP/PLUG/NUT FITTING Ebay $6.76
-1 Edelmann 7860 Power Steering Gear Box Major Seal Kit Amazon $23.31
- Russell 660440 Blue Anodized Aluminum -6AN Flare to 1/4" Pipe Straight Adapter Amazon $5.59
-2 of Earl's AT981666ERL Straight Male AN -6 to 3/8" NPT Amazon $5.75
- PSC Motorsports 1.75" x 8" Assist Cylinder - PSC-SC2201K pscmotorsports.com $184
- Field Serviceable Cylinder Hose Kit w/ 4-90s 8 Feet of #6 Hose pscmotorsports.com $90
- Jeep / late model GM Hydro Steer Cap http://jkwoffroad.com/ $60

Total $375.41

My plan is to tap the box on the top cover and on the front cap. If this works I should not have to remove the box, take it apart or send it out for taping.

JohnJohn · Nov 8, 2016

I got most of the information from a post on a GMC 4X4 forum post located here:http://www.gmc4x4.com/topic/1487-installing-hydraulic-ram-assist-steering-on-a-sas/

The guy tapped the top of the box and replaced the front cover of the box with a CNC one with a 3/8 NPT fitting in the end from http://jkwoffroad.com/offroadproducts.php for $60. This 3.1" end cap should fit the early Bronco box.

JohnJohn · Nov 8, 2016

I put the bronco up on jack stands and had my son turn the wheel from lock to lock with the knuckle turn stops removed so I could measure my turning stroke distance. I came up with 7.25" and paid PSC an extra $65 to install a stroke limiter inside of the cylinder.
When I got the cylinder i double checked my steering stroke and found out my son had not turned the wheel all the way. My real stroke without hitting anything was 8" and 3/8". It would have cost me over $100 to ship it back, have them remove the spacer then pay for return shipping.
The gland nut on the ram is made out of aluminum and requires a 4mm to 5mm spanner wrench. I tried a cheep Amazon spanner wrench with no luck.

I decided to try and make my own custom tool and it turned out so well the nut came off fast with no concern of stripping the nut. You can see i used the ram nut to help keep my custom tool from creeping up and out.

PSC just put a 3/4" plastic spacer that was easy to remove once I got the gland nut off.

JohnJohn · Nov 8, 2016

After hours of measuring and tack welding different options this is my final mounting location.
PSC's instructions require that the ram hemi joints are mounted on the same plane so the joints don't bind. In my situation I had the most clearance by welding one of the hemi grade 8 huge bolts directly to the riser just like the track bar is mounted. I may weld a custom top bracket to hold the end of the bolt and to provide a double shear fitting but It should hold.

JSmall · Nov 8, 2016

Looks good! I'm going to look into the cap you used.

JohnJohn · Nov 8, 2016

I am going to keep the 8" of ram travel and turn the turn knuckle stops out to remove my extra 3/16" of turning radius on each side (3/8" total). Because the box has the ability to turn more than the ram I want both to end at the same time so one does not fight the other.
I also run into a bit of tire clearance issues at full lock so I will not miss the 3/8.

Also in my shopping list are two -6 caps just in case I need to bypass the system. The PSC ram comes with -6 caps and the two additional caps I bought will let me remove the hoses on the trail.

Toddpole · Nov 8, 2016

JohnJohn said:
The PSC ram comes with -6 caps and the two additional caps I bought will let me remove the hoses on the trail.

You will need to loop a hose from one fitting to the other on the cylinder or remove the cylinder completely. Otherwise you will be fighting a sealed hydraulic system within the cylinder. This will prevent cylinder travel and steering ability.

Dlish · Nov 8, 2016

Awesome write up John. Thanks for sharing.

I am close to pulling the trigger on the parts list. Thankfully there is a really good hose store near work that carries all the fittings.

Want to see how that new tapped cover goes on, keep us updated.

JohnJohn · Nov 8, 2016

Thanks Drew.

Todd, I was thinking the same thing about the caps. I will need to remove the cylinder and cap it off at the box if I have issues.

gddyap · Nov 8, 2016

I have caps and plugs just in case. I blew a 90* fitting on the ram and put plugs in the hoses and removed the ram. I put caps on the ram. The plugs in the hoses meant I didn't have to remove them from the box. I just zip tied them to the axle. Less fluid spill.
Also, you want the ram to dictate travel. Better for more travel left in the box than in the ram.

Toddpole · Nov 8, 2016

JohnJohn said:
Todd, I was thinking the same thing about the caps. I will need to remove the cylinder and cap it off at the box if I have issues.

Good deal. I just wanted to be sure you were aware. It's an easy thing to overlook.

JohnJohn · Nov 8, 2016

I found this handy Ford Bronco Power Steering Box flow diagram on this web site: http://www.kokes.net/bronco/powr_str.htm

If this diagram is correct then I need to connect the driver side fitting on the ram to the fitting on the front of the power steering box and the passenger size fitting of the ram to the top plate fitting on the box.

5001craig · Nov 8, 2016

Nice write-up JohnJohn. We have very similar setups.

I've mocked mine up but need to drop my track bar a bit before install. Will be doing this over the winter. Thanks!

gddyap · Nov 8, 2016

Keep the ram disconnected the first time you fire it up just in case the hose are reversed.

377 · Nov 9, 2016

John
Thanks for this write up. It sure will save me some money when I put my ram set up together!

JohnJohn · Nov 12, 2016

I made some progress today. I tapped the top cover of the box, and got the front cover off. I had to hook everything up with the front retaining ring off the front cap then start the engine and when I turned left it blew out and across the garage.
Turning right did nothing and after seeing how the box operated I determined the front cap will give me a left turn pressure so I am going to test it with a line running from the front cap of the box to the passenger port on the ram.
It does sucks to remove the pump and box 3 times with fluid all over the place.

JohnJohn · Nov 12, 2016

bigjhoov · Nov 12, 2016

Get some steel an fittings, the aluminum ones can fail.

JohnJohn · Nov 13, 2016

I didn't think about that and just ordered steel ones. I don't want any problems.
Thanks

Viperwolf1 · Nov 13, 2016

JohnJohn said:
I found this handy Ford Bronco Power Steering Box flow diagram on this web site: http://www.kokes.net/bronco/powr_str.htm

If this diagram is correct then I need to connect the driver side fitting on the ram to the fitting on the front of the power steering box and the passenger size fitting of the ram to the top plate fitting on the box.

This diagram is backwards from a Bronco box. Pressure is at the front of the piston during left turns and rear during right turns.

PSC hydraulic Ram Assist Install

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