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14 bolt rear end build thread, shaved 15 bolt, ring gear turn...

nvrstuk

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Ok...creating an official build thread since I grenaded another TruHi9. Done with Ford 9" as I've killed them, twisted 35 spline ARB cases in half..I'm not sponsored so it's time to move on...

This could create major suspension and drivetrain changes since I have a full 16" of vertical travel at each diff. I hope I don't have to remove my trusty KluneV doubler since I could need another 6" of driveshaft length to help with ujoint angles at a full 16" droop. Need to figure the angles and degree geometry on paper here real soon so I know what I can and can't do for suspension...

This addy shows some of my early research into choices byw a 10" GearWorks or 14 bolt. Might get confusing as this was befor I decided to start a single "rear-end" thread

https://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=296712&page=4
 
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Dirtroadjunkie

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Subscribed. Been debating between a FW 9 or 14 bolt. I picked up a 14 housing, but have held off on buying the parts to build it. Looking forward to seeing how you go about building it better than the 9.
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Without being able to post real progress pics yet I have the build all figured out, with parts, and appr costs...

Dirtroadjunkie...don't buy any 9" parts!! yet ... :)
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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How frustrating...first detailed paragraph with 3 pics and the CB site had a hiccup and I lost it...15 min post writeup..maybe I'll make them shorter so I wont lose so much info... :(
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Try it again... ;)

14 bolt has an excellent reputation for being extremely strong at the cost of not being nearly as light as the 9".

I will document the weights of both and how I'm building the 14 bolt to hold up to lots of gear reduction, 700+ ft lbs of stroker torque, and 40's.

I have linked the best writeup on the net about everything 14 bolt. I will update and add a few things that aren't detailed on the Pirate writeup to hopefully help someone out.


http://www.billavista.com/tech/Articles/14-Bolt_Bible/index.html
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Here's why I'm leaving the 9" forever...
 

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sykanr0ng

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How frustrating...first detailed paragraph with 3 pics and the CB site had a hiccup and I lost it...15 min post writeup..maybe I'll make them shorter so I wont lose so much info... :(

You may find it helps to write the post out in Notepad (or whatever your computer has) then copy and paste to the forum.
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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More 9" post carnage pics... 2/3 pinion brgs don't have many if any rollers left in them

Look at the face of those ring gear teeth closely... ;(
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Forgot to post a pic of my latest addition...50 bucks.

First thing I want to know is how much does a 14 bolt boat anchor weigh? Got my scales out and started weighing some parts...
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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All stock brackets, axles, no drum brakes, or cover. Zoom in on the scales... 300#'s...IF you kept the drum brakes...see the next post

Update on 9/22/19. I went back and checked the weight of my RuffStuff housing.

With the 9" TrueHi9 out and the rear housing with all brackets, 14 bolt hubs, no RCV axles and no 3rd member weighs in at 208#

RS housing 208 + 75# third member = 283#'s

14 bolt essentially weighed with the same stuff on the housing WITH axles weighed in at 300#'s

So who says a 14 bolt is a PIG!! :)
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Here's why you NEVER run stock drum brakes! lol

120#'s....wow.
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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I spent a lot of time researching the pro's and con's of another HiPinion 9" compared to a 14 bolt.

Only real option to handle the HP I have was a GearWorks HiPinion with a 10" R&P. After talking to Barry at GearWorks he couldn't guarantee the miles on the gears...oiling wasn't an issue but he said Pre-Runners get 10-20K miles... not enough.

So moving on... been running Hi Pinions in the rear (several of them) on my Bronco for over a dozen years... so on to toughness...

14 bolt--

Will it fit? I need 65" WMS and not having to retube the rear could save a bunch in housing fab work and not having to order custom axles.

BellaVista explains what SRW, C&C, and DRW hubs mean.
SRW- Single Wheel Drive
C&C- Cab and Chassis
DRW- Dual Rear Wheel

The different hubs change the wheel mounting surface of the wheel...effectively changing the width of your vehicles track.

See pic next post...early model SRW 14 bolt and the "unknown" '88-2000 as I will explain later. There are three common hub sizes. This is how you change WMS (wheel mounting surface).
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Heres a pic of:

- the hub on the left is what I will call an "early SRW" and the brake drum can only be removed when the studs are pressed out.

- the shorter of the 2 hubs is also an SRW but-not mentioned in the Bellavista 14 bolt bible write up is the mention that there are 2 different length SRW hubs and it is easily recognized because the brake drums are "slide-off", meaning you unbolt the lug nuts, remove the wheel and the brake drum just slides off.
 

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Yeller

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I know this was a brain twisting decision and a huge project. I have never had the opportunity to seriously compare all the options. I personally haven’t built a 14 start to finish in over a decade, they have all come prepped and ready for install by the time I received them so I didn’t need to figure anything out other than making it fit.
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Steve- I love researching and making all this stuff work but not when it comes out of MY pocket all the time!! haha
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Another option that I will mention now is interchangeability of single and dual wheel D50 and D60 hubs... you will need to use double splined axle shafts but I've done this before and used an RCV FF kit/drive flanges. Worked great. Bearings are interchangeable also. Just another option for WMS and brake mounting.
 

Yeller

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Steve- I love researching and making all this stuff work but not when it comes out of MY pocket all the time!! haha

Hahaha yes I get it exactly what I was thinking Saturday while I was inspecting rear end parts on my GMC figuring out what the mystery noise was. Wound up being a bad 50 year old yolk
 

welndmn

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Are you committed to the 14 bolt yet?
Another option is to buy a dana 60 housing and weld on ford 9 inch ends, then you can reuse your existing 35 spine axle shafts.
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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I've got one but that doesnt mean I'm 100% committed if you can make a viable case for why a different one is better than a 14.

Disadvantages to the D60 are (what I know)

- not as strong as a 14 bolt

- pinion is a 2 brg support

- ring gear isn't as large an OD

-pinion doesn't enter the ring gear as low so you lose tooth contact (strength)

- pinion is longer from ujoint centerline to axle centerline. Big difference here as it allows your DS to be longer.

-IF I cut a D60 housing to the correct width and welded ends on (I have the alignment shaft/tools for this and have done it) then I could use my 35 spline shafts...

Not sure I want to trade these other advantages in for that...
 

Yeller

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I've got one but that doesnt mean I'm 100% committed if you can make a viable case for why a different one is better than a 14.

Disadvantages to the D60 are (what I know)

- not as strong as a 14 bolt

- pinion is a 2 brg support

- ring gear isn't as large an OD

-pinion doesn't enter the ring gear as low so you lose tooth contact (strength)

- pinion is longer from ujoint centerline to axle centerline. Big difference here as it allows your DS to be longer.

-IF I cut a D60 housing to the correct width and welded ends on (I have the alignment shaft/tools for this and have done it) then I could use my 35 spline shafts...

Not sure I want to trade these other advantages in for that...

From my experience and your carnage level it would end with some heart ache. I genuinely believe you will kill a ring and pinion, not a matter of if but when. For mere mortals a d60 would be fine but for Brian not so much.

As a side note, why do you think they make D80’s for JK’s? D60 r&p’s were failing under hard use, now some of that is from the builds being portly, but was happening
 
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