100" wheelbase

[70 U150]

Is their any threads on stretching the wheelbase? I've searched but have not come up with anything.

Thanks
Matt

 

[Broncobowsher]

Front, rear or both?

 

[green77bronco]

I've search this recently, couldn't find to much info. But I did find a couple of threads on people moving either the rear or front axle a couple of inchs. Good info.

 

[outofphaze64]

Look up Dan Wheeler's threads. He move his rear spring shackle back 3". I thank he also flipped them. dana 60 thread

 

[DanWheeler]

You could spend days looking through my 3-link thread which is about 60 pages long I think. I gave up looking for the pages that had info about relocating the rear shackles. There is information about moving the front forward buried somewhere in that thread but its very specific to my front suspension design.

Dana 60 3-link Thread:
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=159179

here's a spin-off thread for the rear shackle relocation that might be useful:
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=174063

but I'll save you some time and tell you that yes, you can relocate and flip the rear shackles very easily. I moved my rear back 5". The problem you will run into is that your diff will be hitting your fuel tank. I went with a fuel cell sitting above the frame rails embedded into the rear cargo area. (there's a thread for that too if you want it)

You'll also probably need to extend the rear wheel wells like so:

that part is pretty easy. Just purchase one wheel well from one of the vendors, cut it in half and weld into the existing buckets to extend them.

Then you have drivelines to consider. I can't speak to the front unless you want to talk about significant modifications like 3-link, coilovers, etc. With the front, you will run into problems with the battery box, the track bar, the draglink and pitman arm, the oil pan, etc etc. I was only able to move my front forward 3" or so + the rear moved back 5" puts me at around 100".

if you're serious about it, we can help you. I wouldn't waste your time unless you're going to be running some big tires, doing some serious rock crawling or you enjoy a good fabrication challenge.

 

[gravy]

Im 3 front 3 rear about 98 now

 

[70 U150]

Thank you for the info! My plan is to run a D60 in the front, push it forward as much as I can and still make it work, I will be running a 3-link in the front. The rear will be a D70 and pushed back 4-5 inchs running a 4-link. I knew moving the front would be more of a challenge then moving the rear, but this will be a fun challenge with the help from you guys ;D. That being said, don't be afraid to chime in and share your knowledge. This is what I do know (not much). I will have to move the trac bar frame bracket the amount the the front gets moved forward (depending on axle bracket location)I could see this interfering with the steering box if I was to go to much (full hydro steering?). Will the front crossmember have to be moved or modified? In the back I will probably end up doing the same thing as Dan did with the fuel cell and wheel wells. What will I have to do for the rear crossmember?

Thanks

 

[DanWheeler]

I didn't have to do anything with my rear crossmember but I am still leaf springs. If I go 4-link in the rear, I will need to relocate the rear crossmember because the uppers on top of the diff will hit the crossmember.

I did move my front crossmember forward to accomodate my steering box being pushed forward and to get it out of the way of the trackbar because the stock front crossmember hangs down a few inches and gets in the way. the new front crossmember is flat and out of the way:

You can't do full hydro with a 3-link because you will get bumpsteer. Just stick with the basic trackbar with steering box and drag link then add hydro-assist if you need it. it all fits nicely if you take the time to plan it all out.

It's a lot of work though. A set of Duff arms and some RCV axles will get you there for a lot less money.

 

[70 U150]

I didn't have to do anything with my rear crossmember but I am still leaf springs. If I go 4-link in the rear, I will need to relocate the rear crossmember because the uppers on top of the diff will hit the crossmember.

I did move my front crossmember forward to accomodate my steering box being pushed forward and to get it out of the way of the trackbar because the stock front crossmember hangs down a few inches and gets in the way. the new front crossmember is flat and out of the way:

You can't do full hydro with a 3-link because you will get bumpsteer. Just stick with the basic trackbar with steering box and drag link then add hydro-assist if you need it. it all fits nicely if you take the time to plan it all out.

It's a lot of work though. A set of Duff arms and some RCV axles will get you there for a lot less money.

Dan, thanks for your input. How long are your front links? I like the look of your front crossmember, is their a reason you used tubing instead of box?
I'm getting ready to put my order in and can't wait to get started!

 

[dan1]

So whats the deal on not running full hydro with a 3 link? Thats what I was planing on running.

Thanks for the info

 

[bigjhoov]

No build thread, but I've done it. I cut off the old frame horns and added some old frame sections to weld the spring hangers to. I moved the axle back 8". Cut out the stock cross member and moved it back too. I didn't get real fancy with the fish plates because I thought they were goig to be semi-temporary.

 

[bigjhoov]

So whats the deal on not running full hydro with a 3 link? Thats what I was planing on running.

Thanks for the info

You can do it Daniel. You shouldn't get any bump steer because you won't have the tie rod and trac bar trying to oppose each other. The axle will still swing on the trac bar, but I can't see how that would cause bump steer.

 

[70 U150]

Bump, would anyone else like to chime in?

 

[av8rds]

I am pretty sure he meant 4-link....just a typo

So whats the deal on not running full hydro with a 3 link? Thats what I was planing on running.

Thanks for the info

 

[av8rds]

Bump, would anyone else like to chime in?

been thinking of stretching my truck to 102-105" for years. Never actually got past the buying of parts stage. Just bought a buggy with a 105" wheelbase and I think I was 100% right thats a good place to be.

Coby told me in Moab his 104"'s on his Bronco was great, and now that I try it in the buggy I agree totally.

 

[73stallion]

i feel like before i moved the axles out that far, i'd stretch the whole truck 10" or 12". one of my dreams actually. that along with F150 axles and 4BT.

 

[bigjhoov]

I am pretty sure he meant 4-link....just a typo

Um, what? 4-links and full hydro pretty much go hand in hand. So confused.

 

[av8rds]

Um, what? 4-links and full hydro pretty much go hand in hand. So confused.

Yeah I got the impression above he was possibly interested in keeping a steering box. Which is why I thought that should be corrected to 4-link.

 

[av8rds]

i feel like before i moved the axles out that far, i'd stretch the whole truck 10" or 12". one of my dreams actually. that along with F150 axles and 4BT.

Unless you a) don't like that's look(me) or b) your building it to wheel hard, then moving the front and rear out make for better approach /departure angles.

 

[73stallion]

Unless you a) don't like that's look(me) or b) your building it to wheel hard, then moving the front and rear out make for better approach /departure angles.

i understand where you're coming from. i've looked at mine many times, and thought it looks goofy because it seems the approach and departure angles are as long as the breakover angle. that's one reason i wanna move my front axle forward an inch. %)