1972 Bronco Transfer Case Shifting Handle "Slop"

[Ark Bigfoot]

I have a 1972 Bronco and was having difficulty putting it into 4 wheel drive. I removed the transfer shift cover and saw there was excess "play". I tightened up the transfer case nut but it did not take the "slop" out. I found out it was a bolt going all the way through and I was turning the entire bolt 1/16 turn at a time. lol The nut seems to have bottomed out. The up and down movement is tight only the side movement is loose. It will shift but is very difficult. Once it moves with a hard force. it gets easier for a while. LIke going into Lo 4WL is hard but back to N is easy but other gears take more force.. The transfer shift handle button works as it should and moves the lever up and down into the groves in Lo 4WD and Hi4W . How do I take the "slop" out and is there something else which needs replaced to make it shitf easier?https://www.flickr.com/photos/77159845@N07/50841849248/in/dateposted-public/

 

[WILDHORSES]

The plastic bushings are long gone. See them here.
https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Tshifter_Bushings_Pair/Bronco_Dana_20_Shifters

Jim

 

[.94 OR]

https://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/product/transfer-case-t-shifter-pivot-bushing-66-72-ford-bronco

 

[Ark Bigfoot]

Jim, how hard is that to install? I can see the one on the nut side would be challange because of the tight space but do able, but when I take the bolt out are there parts which will difficult to line back up, to do the other side?

 

[DirtDonk]

if it's only loose side-to-side, then you might still have good bushings (but doubtful unless they've been replaced) but the bolt is still loose.
It's a lock nut/C-nut/jam-nut whatever you want to call it. The all-metal type that's been crimped. I replaced mine with a Nyloc, but the concept is the same. You have to be able to grab the bolt head to hold it still while you tighten the nut.

You can actually tighten it up enough to jam it from moving, so would then have to back off slightly.
See if you can do that first while you're figuring out if you need new bushings too. I did after only about five years, but the 4wd got used fairly often in it's first few years of life.

Have you shifted these before? And have you shifted yours much before and have noticed it getting harder? Or has yours done this all along and it's your first Bronco?
Reason I ask is that some of the t-cases are real bears to shift. My '71 shifted like butter it's whole life, while my '68 is a royal PITA to shift into any position!
Both are in good shape with properly (seemingly anyway) adjusted linkage. Haven't had time to mess with the '68 yet, but it's on the list.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[Ark Bigfoot]

If I take the bolt out will the shifting lever come up thru the hole in the hump so I can install the bushings? Is it attached to anything else? To answer your question Paul about using the 4 wheel drive, I only used it when at deer camp and when it snowed here in Arkansas very seldom. I bought it new in 1972 and has 91,000 miles on it. You are correct it was diffictult to enguage in and out of 4 WD . I tightened up the nut until it would not go any farther. The pictures are after the tighting.
Because of the limited space I had thoughts of doing your idea of a Nylok and placing a nylon washer on the inside of the nut. The outer rim of the bushing appears to be gone. Since there isn't any up and down movement the busihing appears to be good inside. If it isn't difficult, the cost of the bushings are very cheap and I would just replace them. For my information 11/16 wrench on nut and 5/8 on the bolt head. Is it difficult to replace the bushings?

 

[DirtDonk]

Once you get the bolt out, the lever's lower arm is still connected to the "shift rod" that connects to the "equalizer bar" (or whatever that thing is called) so you will still need to pull a clip/pin and disconnect the rod.

While you're in there is a great time to clean and lube the shift shafts as they enter the main case. They can get pretty dirty and gritty and rusty and pitted after all these years.
I usually shift them out to their most extended position, wipe them down with a rag or wire brush if needed, then something like a Scotch-Brite pad or fine grit paper to clean any last bit of crud off, then lube them up.
The lube is so that they shift back into the case without dragging on the little seals.

Yes, lube will also collect dust and grit, but at least for the first few test shifts the lube is good. then you can wipe them dry if preferred.
if you haven't changed the oil in the transfer case lately, might as well do that while you're messing about too. It calls for 50wt motor oil, but you can use a lightweight gear oil too as long as it does not have additives that attach 'yellow metals" (bronze and such) like the bushings and thrust washers that are inside the t-case.

Once the bolt is out the bushings are an easy in-n-out process as long as you can reach in there. They're just plastic and slide right in.
I grease this bolt too, as it's a pivot point. Pretty sure I used nylon washers under the head of the bolt and the nut too.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

I do seem to remember the bolt being kind of a pain to get out all the way though. don't remember what was in the way, or if it was because my old rubber body bushings were sagged. But I do remember a bit of a fight the first time.

paul

 

[Ark Bigfoot]

Since I did not have any "Slop" in the up-down direction and the removal of the bolt was going to be a "pita", I made a side retainer out of Delrin and used a credit card for a 1/32 inch gap tollerance. I also purchased a 1/8 piece of rubber neoprene from Amazon to cover that hugh hole in the hump. This should help to stop some of the dust that comes up from the bottom. https://www.flickr.com/photos/77159845@N07/50863543311/in/dateposted-public/

 

[DirtDonk]

Wow, creative! Hope it tightens it up the way you want. Have you run it through it's paces yet?
And reducing the dust is nothing but a good thing!

If you were not already aware during your messing around with the mechanism, that plate "quadrant" or "shift interlock" thingy is adjustable too. If your shifting into different gears does not seem to line up perfectly with the button on the T-handle snapping into it's notch, the plate is capable of pivoting slightly.

Paul

 

[Ark Bigfoot]

The Delrin works great. It is "slick" like Teflon but very strong. The clear plastic Shifting Indicator was missing from the Transfer case house so I ordered a sheet of Lexan 1/32" 12" x 12".Clear.$6.95. Since it is thin it can be cut with scissors.. I had my neighbor cut the white letters from sign vinyl but need to adj a little. Then I will "sandwich" between two strips and E6000 then into place. https://www.flickr.com/photos/77159845@N07/50874962802/in/dateposted-public/

 

[Howard2x4x4]

Good stuff! I love the creative ways to git 'er done!