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1973 egr carb spacer issues

Justin Palmer

Contributor
Jr. Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2018
Messages
291
I was having issues with rough idle and when I put the Bronco in gear it would die. I replaced all vacuum lines and it still did it so I decided to rebuild the carburetor too. I took the carburetor off and the egr spacer plate and as you can see in the photos there was a hole on the side and a small pin hole in the top. Is this likely what caused the stalling issues? I am in search of a replacement egr spacer plate. Will other plates work or do I need an exact replacement? My pcv goes to my carburetor currently and a lot of spacers have the pcv port on them. I would prefer to remain stock as this Bronco is extremely original and would like to keep it that way. However, I have read several threads indicating the egr port under the spacer plate could be blocked off with a bolt. When I removed the spacer plate it appears that someone has previously done this to mine (see photo). My question is can I use the plain 1” block (see picture) for my set up until I can find an original spacer? If I can locate an original with egr I would imagine that I would just remove the bolt on my manifold correct? If anyone has an egr spacer plate for sale (that will work) please let me know. Thanks for any help.
 

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Justin Palmer

Justin Palmer

Contributor
Jr. Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2018
Messages
291
This is the bolt on the manifold that I was informed was put in place to eliminate the egr
 

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Justafordguy

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 26, 2009
Messages
6,253
That could certainly cause your idle issue. Any 1" block for a 2bbl Motorcraft should work, even one with a PCV port (you can just block it off). Just make sure you get the right gaskets.
 

langester

Contributor
MASTER OF MADNESS
Joined
Mar 2, 2013
Messages
2,672
I have one that is a different style, not sure if it will work for you or not, here are some pics. It has a D7AE code on the base.
 

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jckkys

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 15, 2012
Messages
5,212
If you want EGR, a cast iron EGR spacer would be preferable to aluminum. The reason is obvious, hot exhaust eats through the aluminum. I ran a pseudo EGR for years. There's less maintenance, better MPGs, and a lot less vacuum hoses to keep from causing leaks. Only in Cal. are there checks to see if the EGR is functional. So you may need to keep it. So the cast iron spacer is your best choice. Some of these include a PCV port in the front so you use a carb with no PCV. Here's a good example;https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-FORD-7...432327?hash=item33edf29d87:g:pEUAAOSw60NbNBor
 

Ovalis

Contributor
Full Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2011
Messages
404
Loc.
Los Angeles
Worse comes to worse, you can have it welded up, but will most likely need to have the bottom machined flat to sit straight. That's what I did with mine even though I had some NOS ones just because I wanted to keep the new ones unused in case I really need them later. Might cost more to do that work unless you have access to someone who can do it for you.
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
My '77 had the aluminum EGR spacer blow out while under factory warranty. The dealer replaced it with a cast iron one.
That one lasted many years.
 
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