I agree that it needs more caster but there is only so much you can do without cutting the C’s off (the part that the ball joints bolt to), repositioning for more caster and welding back, but it is enough it should be drivable without major work. Cutting C’s is major work and it takes the right shop to do the work, because if done incorrectly it will be terrible.
I would Add small amounts of toe until you get to 3/8”, between the 1/16” you have and 3/8” will be a sweet spot. As you have decided, play with air pressure.
From a physics standpoint a dropped pitman arm and dropped track at bracket will help as well, however it is not the best option, works but for overall drivability, flip the tie rod on top of the knuckle and do a track bar riser, that provides the best result, is a small amount more labor but the end results are better. If it was in my shop that would have been done for you if it drove like you are saying.
I personally don’t like how broncos drive with a sway bar. Some people say they are death traps without them, i personally find the restriction from the radius arms to be more than sufficient and the ride to be better. But if it makes you like how it drives by all means put one on there, if your adding to the front put the rear one one too, it does help to balance it out. Helwig is the only manufacturer that I am aware of that offers them complete, several of our bronco vendors supply them.
As for the bent rear housing, that would show up in the alignment specs, it shows thrust angle and camber for both sides, it looks decent, not enough to cause issue in my opinion. But as mentioned bushing condition is just as important for the rear springs as it is for the track bar. A worn spring bushing will make you crazy chasing issues that are not in the front end.