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1975 Wind Blue Survivor

ep67bro

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Aug 28, 2008
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Easton, MD
So after the CLR, wet sanding and buffing what do you protect the paint with? That steel will rust quick again without something on it. Do you just coat it with a good automotive wax or something else?
 
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green61bug

green61bug

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So after the CLR, wet sanding and buffing what do you protect the paint with? That steel will rust quick again without something on it. Do you just coat it with a good automotive wax or something else?
Yeah, I will cut and polish and then use a good wax sealant. It was more stains than bare metal anywhere. The paint is checked, I guess from sitting in the desert sun so many years, and that made it rust in the tiny little cracks which ultimately just stained everything. If I left it outside without anything on it it would still take quite some time to look the way it did before. With a little maintaining it should last a long log time. Plus it's inside now too...
 

JeffG

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Awesome job on the cleaning!!

My favorite pic so far is the one showing the interior of the hard top and what looks like carpeted 2x4s trying to prevent the infamous oil canning.
 

Yeller

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Rogers County Oklahoma
I’ve got a hot rod buddy that swares by ceramic coating patina. He says it’s the way to go. He build 4 -6 new ones every year. Shiny painted show cars are sterile. Patina cars tell a story.
 
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green61bug

green61bug

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Awesome job on the cleaning!!

My favorite pic so far is the one showing the interior of the hard top and what looks like carpeted 2x4s trying to prevent the infamous oil canning.
I hated to pull those out cause I kinda liked em but when you touched the carpet it turned to dust. Plus the way they connected them to the roll bar I had to rip the carpet off to get the roll bar out. Once I did that I started tearing them out... THey were attached quite well!!! Haha
 
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green61bug

green61bug

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I’ve got a hot rod buddy that swares by ceramic coating patina. He says it’s the way to go. He build 4 -6 new ones every year. Shiny painted show cars are sterile. Patina cars tell a story.
I imagine that does work quite well! I havent done any ceramic coating myself but I heard you have to be pretty good with it or you can cause problems. I've looked at paying people and that isn't very cheap either. I may look into it a little more before its all said and done but it sure is easy to call it done and hit it with a coat of wax every year or so...
 
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green61bug

green61bug

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I finished up cleaning the paint and wetsanding the exterior. Here are a couiple pics of what it looks like pre buff.... So many scratches... Honestly, I think going down to 1000 grit is too much. This was my first time going that coarse, a friend said it would be fine. Really it is fine but I had to hit it pretty hard with 2000 and when it came to buffing I ended up compunding the entire truck twice to remove more and more scratches.

75_After_CLR_Wet_Sand.jpg 75_After_CLR_Wet_Sand_02.jpg
 
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green61bug

green61bug

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I cleaned up the inside as well. I didnt spend a ton of time in here but I did clr the floor and some of the sides and then just ran the polish over it.... I started coating the rusty spots with Loctite extend rust stuff before I realized I didnt take any details of the floor first. I've never used this stuff before but I knew I would be fixing the rust right away and wanted to prpotect what is there as best as I can, especially since I will be putting mats back in it. Here are a bunch of shots of the floors and details of the rust which is really the only rust in the truck minus one small hole in the inner wheel well. I will coat that area as well and take some shots so yall can see the hole I'm talking about. Front_Floor_Pre_Coating_02.jpg
 

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green61bug

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More pictures of the floor and a hood detail of the paint... Hood_Detail_Pre_Buff.jpg
 

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green61bug

green61bug

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Here are some pics of it after I finished buffing and waxing the paint. Also, some pics of the floors after I coated the heavier surface rust areas with the loctite stuff and it dried. I like that the loctite stuff turns the rust black but doesnt completely cover the painted areas that are hard to avoid. Post_Buff_Wax_003.jpg
 

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JCBombardier

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Mar 23, 2016
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122
Looks awesome! Are you able planning to do any floor coating or run as is for now?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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green61bug

green61bug

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Looks awesome! Are you able planning to do any floor coating or run as is for now?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm just going to throw some sound deadener on the front floors, only because they will be replaced eventually, and then the factory style mats for now. When the front floors get done later on down the line, if I do them, I will repaint the floors the factory wind blue. I doubt I will ever undercoat or raptor line the inside of anything... Maybe if I built something from scratch but I couldnt bring myseff to ever do that to a survivor. It was hard enough for me to put anyhting on the surface rust as it is. haha
 

JCBombardier

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Mar 23, 2016
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Yeah I have a similar sentiment. I feel like the floor mats that Icon uses with the integrated dynamat could be a middle of the road solution that retains the originality of the floors but still provides some heat and sound control.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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green61bug

green61bug

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Spent some time in the garage last night and got the roof and front floors insulated/sound deadened. The roof is a hug difference compared to my unsinulated 69. I will be putting a headliner in the 75.

It pained me to do the floors, really the roof too! I hate covering up original stuff with something that isn't easily undoable but I did it! Haha. Before I laid down the killmat I cleared over all the loctite rust coating and other immeditate areas the killmat was going to cover. I also put a couple pieces of sheet metal over the actual holes in the corners. I used a sealant around the edges to hopefully keep any water from creeping through those areas for now. I also added a piece of sheet metal back over the trans tunnel to give the mat a little more support on top of the gigantic hole they cut for the 3 speed floor shifter. I got teh mats in. The two holes closest to the drivers door were the first two and I realized I needed to adjust my method of lining up the holes. I guess its good that I will be the one seeing that side most of the time. Maybe thats a bad thing tho. haha

It sure would be nice if I had a welder. I have to quit buying cars and start buying some equipment. haha. Here are some pics.
 

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BGBronco

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I'm getting ready to do the same thing. Curious if you did anything on the inside of the doors. Also, Which mat did you buy? Thank you,
 
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green61bug

green61bug

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I'm getting ready to do the same thing. Curious if you did anything on the inside of the doors. Also, Which mat did you buy? Thank you,
I haven't done anything on the inside of the doors but I plan to eventually...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0751G6TMV/?tag=cbama-20 ... this is what I used on the floor and the 9 pieces on the roof.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B099PSQXJW/?tag=cbama-20 .. this is what I put over the killmat and covered the majority of the roof with. It is a pain in the butt peeling the back off and if it sticks to anything it will pull the foam apart. Not that hard to deal with but kinda annoying.
 

75Denver

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Jun 5, 2007
Messages
571
Looks great man! Can you show photos of what the paint looks like post buff/wax? (Similar to the lighting of the driverside full body shot that shows all the swirl marks?) I've seen wet sanding but never really happy with the scratches that remain post compound buff. Also, where did you get the tires and what size?
 
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green61bug

green61bug

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I have been toying with the idea of selling this 75 in order to possibly purchase a u13. Not sure what ill be asking for it but I was kinda thinking of listing it along the lines of 50K. I know it seems kinda cray to us bronco guys but this is one solid original bronco compared to a lot of the other stuff I've seen out there. If anyone is interested shoot me a PM.
 

sprdv1

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Here are some pics of it after I finished buffing and waxing the paint. Also, some pics of the floors after I coated the heavier surface rust areas with the loctite stuff and it dried. I like that the loctite stuff turns the rust black but doesnt completely cover the painted areas that are hard to avoid. View attachment 877777

Really like that.. Looks "ORIGINAL" Nice work
 

sprdv1

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Messages
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I have been toying with the idea of selling this 75 in order to possibly purchase a u13. Not sure what ill be asking for it but I was kinda thinking of listing it along the lines of 50K. I know it seems kinda cray to us bronco guys but this is one solid original bronco compared to a lot of the other stuff I've seen out there. If anyone is interested shoot me a PM.

Never hurts to start high and see what happens. Good luck
 
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