1976 Ford Bronco Ranger Master Cylinder to Prop Valve Lines

[fishinman78]

Would the original brake lines that run from the master cylinder to proportioning valve on a 1976 Bronco Ranger with factory power disk brakes be rubber or coiled hard lines??

 

[DirtDonk]

As far as I know they were always rubber. Or more accurately, a combination of both.
For sure the older ones without the booster and the lines coming out of the master facing the engine side were rubber flex lines straight down to the H-block.
I'm pretty sure that the '76 and '77 were too, but there are a couple of original owners of '77's here that should chime in with direct experience and maybe can post up pics of their setups.

Is that what you have now, or do you have coiled hard line? That was the way GM always did it, and how Ford did it on many vehicles. The Bronco was unique in many ways, including the choice of rubber. Not sure why, but that's what they did from the beginning to (perhaps) the end.

Got a pic of yours?

Paul

 

[fishinman78]

I have some poorly made bent hard lines with no ability to move and flex.

I am trying to keep my Ranger as close to stock as possible while I rebuild the braking system. I see Wildhorses sells a rubber/metal line kit that resembles stock. That is probably the way I will go if rubber was the standard.

 

[DirtDonk]

Yep, that's why we have it. It's not really 100% stock looking anymore for those that are intimately familiar with them, but they look enough like it, and keep the general feel of stock, that they are pretty cool.
Ultimately the all-metal lines are probably the better way to go for longevity, but most of us are not daily driving these things 15k a year anymore, and they don't always sit outside in harsh weather either, so the rubber lines should last a LOT longer than the originals.
In fact, my '71 is still sporting it's first replacement set (bought from Ford in the early '80's) and are in great shape at least visually. The originals lasted less than 10 years before they looked all cracked and beat up, but the replacements are still going almost 40 years later. And I kind of like the look still too, so my next set will likely be rubber again.
Or maybe I'll get all fancy and stuff and go with a braided stainless flex and steel tubing combination!%)

Paul

 

[frenchy]

I checked every auto supplier when i was looking for those for my 77. No Luck.
I bought what you say WH has but I bought mine from Graveyard. There closer to me for shipping. And are the closest to stock that you will find.

frenchy

 

[jckkys]

I just went through this with my '77 restoration. Most the vendors use all steel lines with loops in them that look nothing like the originals. So I went to a hydraulic hose shop to see if they could reproduce the originals. Unfortunately mine were lost by the restoration shop, but I remember the way they looked. The hydraulic shop could do whatever I wanted but they're expensive and if the rubber portion cracked they would have to be replaced by a hydraulic hose shop, with the crimping ability. Not good if your away from town. The originals were still serviceable when the restoration began. So longevity isn't an issue. I got the WH replacements, tho they have upper steel portions that are far shorter than the originals. I'm going to have to make the top steel portion myself, to resemble the originals. It's not hard since it only requires 1 bend and 2 double flairs at the fittings. The steel portion at the combination valve has some tight and complex bends that the hose shop hasn't seen. The WH lower portion is a good reproduction and won't need modification. In all, the WH is the best of available reproductions and and can made better by the buyer. The flair fittings allow the rubber portion to be easily replaced with off the shelf parts found in any brake shop. I'm deep into the '77 restoration and have plenty of reference material and photos. So I would be happy to help you with your '76.

 

[fishinman78]

I just went through this with my '77 restoration. Most the vendors use all steel lines with loops in them that look nothing like the originals. So I went to a hydraulic hose shop to see if they could reproduce the originals. Unfortunately mine were lost by the restoration shop, but I remember the way they looked. The hydraulic shop could do whatever I wanted but they're expensive and if the rubber portion cracked they would have to be replaced by a hydraulic hose shop, with the crimping ability. Not good if your away from town. The originals were still serviceable when the restoration began. So longevity isn't an issue. I got the WH replacements, tho they have upper steel portions that are far shorter than the originals. I'm going to have to make the top steel portion myself, to resemble the originals. It's not hard since it only requires 1 bend and 2 double flairs at the fittings. The steel portion at the combination valve has some tight and complex bends that the hose shop hasn't seen. The WH lower portion is a good reproduction and won't need modification. In all, the WH is the best of available reproductions and and can made better by the buyer. The flair fittings allow the rubber portion to be easily replaced with off the shelf parts found in any brake shop. I'm deep into the '77 restoration and have plenty of reference material and photos. So I would be happy to help you with your '76.

That would be great!! Since I am trying to maintain a "survivor" and not doing a restoration, my goal is to try and replace/repair with parts as close to stock as I can get.