1977 Bronco: Victoria Project- UPDATED FINALLY

[u10072]

Updated Pics

Rolled Victoria outside. Just got the roll-cage in, dash, doors, fenders and my lite-bar bolted on. Probably update the thread better for the along the way pics but for now this is what its been up to. If you look at the original list I kind of blew that out of the water sorta

 

[u10072]

Fuse Panel/Glove Box

Blue Sea fuse panel, 12 fuses and has a nice cover to protect the fuses and also has 6 places for grounds as well.

 

[Bukin 67]

She's sweet! Love the cage! Clean job on the whole fuse panel.

 

[u10072]

Hey great minds think alike

Well the original piece that made to go around the factory glovebox opening was tough to get right, then the body at the top is really in the way, then the latch sticks into the comparment about 1 1/8th". Not wanting to scrap the whole thing which I might actually. In retrospect the new plastic liner with a support strap is probably much better choice.

 

[xcntrk]

Wow. Nice metal fabrication.

 

[u10072]

Thanks for the compliment,,, I've gotta take some more pics...

 

[Heus33]

Yeah more pics! Love the stance and the wheel choice. And that light bar is MEAN looking!

 

[u10072]

Heuss33--thanks a lot. It actually sits pretty low truthfully 3 1/2" in the front and 2 1/2 in the rear with a 1"bl. That litebar turned out like I had hoped and is one of my favorite elements! Ive "liked" your FB page and would love to have a pair of your KILLER HID HEAD LIGHTS!! Thanks again and more pics soon!

 

[u10072]

Seat Brackets

The seat brackets are done this way so that you can get the seats as absolutely low to the floor as possible. To me a stout seat mount is important and gives the universal seat sliders a great place to mount. The mounts are so close to the floor - 1" access holes are made to tighten the slider mounting nuts in place. A simple OEM Ford grommet is then put in the floor to keep out the "stuff"...

 

[u10072]

Radius Arm Mounts

Here's a good look at the radius arm mounts. The centerline of the radius arm as it goes through the hole is lower -- netting a cheap degree or two of extra castor. That weld under the truck at an angle is tricky.

 

[xcntrk]

You must have the whole dimple die set

 

[WheelHorse]

I saw in your signature the Vintage Iron Fabworks...I was looking at the drop brackets and thinking that's a skilled worker right there.

 

[u10072]

Yea I have a pretty complete set-- an air/hydraulic press makes it all possible though.

Thanks on the radius arm brackets-- at some point I am going to be automated to some degree so I can make those with some speed. Now its just a template, bandsaw, hole saw, at least a couple hours. Then you all wont be stuck using the Poly Performance ones-- which dont fit properly on the frame (at the back) with 12" over arm.

 

[BluebroncoNC]

Yea I have a pretty complete set-- an air/hydraulic press makes it all possible though.

Thanks on the radius arm brackets-- at some point I am going to be automated to some degree so I can make those with some speed. Now its just a template, bandsaw, hole saw, at least a couple hours. Then you all wont be stuck using the Poly Performance ones-- which dont fit properly on the frame (at the back) with 12" over arm.

Um, wow to the description you just gave over the difference in a piece of metal. You have skills beyond mine to "modify" something to make it work. Can't wait to see updates!

 

[u10072]

Rear Shock Mounts

Rear shock mounts with FOA 2.5" -12" travel shocks - the 7/8" shafts on the 2.5" body shocks are just massive compared to a standard twin-tube or the anemic "Blisters"

 

[u10072]

Front Shocks

Here are some pics of the front shock mounts. Also shown is the cold air box and the bumpstop mounts.The lower radius arm shock mount is on the side of the arm so that the shock can actually go to full compression at the stock location. Also are pics of the front drive shaft -- this is showing the benefit of the HP Dana 44-- the pic shows the FOA 14" travel shock at full extension and the driveshaft still having room to drop out. The spring wont stretch that far but at least you know that your driveshaft will not be at anywhere near its max.

 

[u10072]

Battery Box Pics

Pics of the optima battery box- the box is one readily available for $35 but was modified to mount in the factory EB battery mounts. After the nutserts started to spin I took them out and just added a 5/16" stud so I don't have to worry about the battery bouncing around. In the 4th picture you can see the hood pin mounts.

 

[Heus33]

Great progress bud! When are you hitting the road??

 

[u10072]

Goal is for moving under its own power in about 30 days-- not finished just able to be moved that doesn't require me pushing

 

[u10072]

Flares

Got the flares on-- I might have used too many rivets but but I measured some rivot spacing i on some airplanes and on a couple Shelbys' and this was what I came up with. The good thing with more rivets is the "puckering" on the flares between the rivets you get sometimes when there are too few. One more thing marked off the white-board!