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    http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?p=514932
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NC 1977 Cummins 4BT Bronco for sale

poolshark5769

New Member
Joined
May 22, 2004
Messages
35
City: Willard, NC
Price: $ 56000

Hey All,
I've decided to finally sell my beloved Bronco. I've had her since I was in highschool and while she's been the best truck I could imagine, I moved to the West coast 8 years ago and she's just been living under a fluffy car cover parked in our family garage since then. While I drive her when I'm home, its time for her to have a new owner who can love and care for her the way I did. I grew up working in an autobody shop and built every detail of the truck myself so I'm happy to answer any and all questions. She's a great truck but not a show truck, and I've tried to be as clear as I can be, but again, please reach out to me at lattner5769@gmail.com if you have any questions!

I'll be editing/posting a followup post with links to a lot more pictures as well as youtube of a build video and current walkaround video with the truck starting and running.


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OP
poolshark5769

poolshark5769

New Member
Joined
May 22, 2004
Messages
35
Drivetrain:

  • Cummins 4BT(CLP 0986) with smaller turbo exhaust housing to decrease turbo lag, 3” exhaust with a Flowmaster 40 series muffler. Custom turbo pressure piping and inlet with a K&N cone style air filter. Before installing it the engine was stripped and coated with POR-15 and the valve covers painted red. The top end of the Bosch injection pump has been rebuilt and the mechanical lift pump replaced. The engine has only run on Delo 400 15W-40 with since I’ve owned it in 2008. The powertrain gearing was designed so that the engine is in its most efficient powerband (a hair over 1800rpm) at 72MPH in fifth gear. The 5.0:1 in the Atlas and the ultra-low first gearing of the transmission more than compensate for the 3.50 axel gearing off road.
  • GM 12SI alternator rebuilt with new bearings and with a 100A rotor/stator with 6ga charging cable to a custom 12v buss bar
  • Rebuilt NV4500 with a Centerforce II clutch and hydraulic master and slave cylinder (Teflon inner stainless outer jacketed hydraulic hose)
  • Atlas 5.0 transfer case
  • Tom Woods custom drive shafts front and rear (original Ford spares included)
  • D44 Front End with original 3.50 gears open differential with Warn Hubs
  • 9” Rear End with 3.50 Richmond gears, Yukon 31 spline axels and Yukon limited slip differential. Stripped to bare steel and painted with POR-15 primer and paint. Wedge shims added to realign to driveshaft after the lift.
Frame/Suspension:

  • Frame stripped to bare steel, 2 coats silver POR-15 primer and 2 more coats POR-15 black top coat
  • Control arms stripped to bare steel, new shock tabs welded, POR15 primer and paint (2x each) and new angled bushings to compensate for suspension lift
  • Stainless fuel lines run on top of the frame in stainless/rubber strap mounts
  • 24 gallon rear tank
  • Front wild horses dual shock hoops welded on
  • James Duff shocks all around
  • Wild horses 3.5” lift front and rear springs
  • 2” body lift (to clear Cummins depth)
  • Wild horses front trac bar riser welded to D44 to correct tie rod alignment
  • All suspension bushings replaced with urethane
  • All new MOOG tie rods and James Duff drop pitman arm
  • Rebuild and re-valved steering box for better road feel instead of Ford’s “single finger” power steering
  • 35x12.5x17” BFG All Terrain TA’s
  • Astrovan hydro boost with new master cylinder with all Teflon inner and stainless covered hosing (replaceable AN fittings at each junction)
  • All new stainless hard brake lines with stainless braid lines to the calipers and wheel cylinders.
  • Rebuilt power steering pump
  • Factory front disc brakes with drum rears (all rebuilt) with a custom Wilwood proportioning valve along the frame rail for the rear drums. The hydro boost makes so much line pressure it will lock the rear wheels with the slightest touch so the variable valve allows you to tune it down for normal driving or add more rear line pressure if you have enough weight in the back of the truck (such as when towing).
Body:

  • Original metallic single stage blue paint.
  • 1974 factory option winch bumper with matching Warn winch. The bumper has been stripped to bare steel and powder coated artic white to match the rear bumper and the dash.
  • Hella 500’s (wide angle) with 100w bulbs wired with relays at distribution buss bar
  • Euro-spec Hella lights in the grill, replaceable bulbs wired with relays at distribution buss bar
  • Custom rear bumper and tire carrier, powder coated Artic white.
  • New grill with the inner face painted to match the artic white of the bumpers and interior with Glasurit single stage
  • The front clip is removable. The inner fenders were stripped to bare steel, the core support was replaced with NOS, then everything was primed with POR 15 and Rhinolined black.
Interior:

  • Dash and door panels stripped to bare steel and powder coated artic white
  • Alpine radio and 2x 6x9” in portable boxes
  • Floorboards all covered with roll on bed liner, then in front of the carpet seam trim (just behind the front seats) there is a layer of lead sheet bonded to mass loaded vinyl all the way up the firewall, then a layer of jute and then carpet. Behind the carpet seat trim bar is just jute and carpet. The lead and MLV do a great job quieting down the 4BT.
  • Factory front seats are covered in neoprene Wet Okole seat covers with custom Bronco Logo
  • Corvette steering wheel with wood rim and chrome horn button
  • High-lift style jack mounted on roll bar (with high-lift wheel jack adaptor sling.

The bad:

  • While there is no rust at all in the front clip there is in the body tub. After doing the frame, suspension and drivetrain I always intended to do the body tub next but other projects got in the way. I stabilized what I could for that project by grinding, POR15 and sealing, but this was never meant to be a permanent solution. The Bronco has been garaged for the past 8 years and it’s time for someone else to enjoy her! The following is what I know needs to be done to the tub should someone want to go that route.
  • The frame off work was done about 10 years ago and the truck was driven for two years as my daily driver and once back and forth to Alaska where I worked as a flyfishing guide. It’s been garaged for the past 8 years. The frame all still seems to be in good shape but the paint of the shocks from Duff, Wild Horses, and the driveshaft’s from Tom Woods all has deteriorated just sitting in the garage. I’ve tried to show this as best as possible in pictures. This truck is not perfect and not a show truck, but she’s a great driver, incredibly dependable, great on the highway (28 mpg on the highway averaged from diesel receipts driving to Alaska and back to North Carolina) and a lot of fun off road.
  • The front floor panels were ground out where rusty to bare steel and then epoxy bonded to molded fiberglass roving replacements (the galvanized structural cross bar of the body was retained.
  • The front left door post needs to be replaced due to rust (pictured) and there is some rust that has appeared around the right rear door seam (pictured).
  • The door skins need to be replaced (a set of fiberglass doors goes with the truck as well as one rust free steel door and two window frames with trim).
  • There is surface rust along the body seam on the outside of the bed on both sides (painted with POR-15)
  • The speedometer stopped working on my last drive, all other gauges work.
  • The parking brake is not connected.
  • One rust spot on the right rear floor (pictured, stripped to bare steel, POR 15 painted and then covered with sheet metal and sealed with 3m acrylic panel adhesive)
Additional:

  • Factory rear seat
  • 2x fiberglass doors with glass window frames (not yet attached)
  • 1x steel door and two steel window frames
  • Set of original sport trim (unrestored/unbuffed)
  • Original plastic wiper cover and sun visors
  • Original 302 2bbl with headers, 3speed, and D20
  • Factory spare tire carrier (no tailgate side latch)
  • ARB compressor and other assorted small spares
 

R0kcrwlr

Jr. Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2001
Messages
184
I saw you had it on BaT sorry it didn't bring what you were looking for. I hope it sales for what you are asking. I just finished a 76 4bt and there is a bunch of work that goes into these conversions.
 
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poolshark5769

poolshark5769

New Member
Joined
May 22, 2004
Messages
35
I saw you had it on BaT sorry it didn't bring what you were looking for. I hope it sales for what you are asking. I just finished a 76 4bt and there is a bunch of work that goes into these conversions.
Hey R0kcrwlr,
Thanks! Yea it was an…interesting experiment trying that platform. But I think it wasn’t exactly the audience for this truck. I suppose I’m looking for more someone who cares about the nitty gritty details like that I ran the numbers to get the differential gearing correct for a good cruise speed while still keeping a creepy crawly low and things like that.

-Brian
 

R0kcrwlr

Jr. Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2001
Messages
184
Yea with the 4bt gearing is essential. I know on my build with 37's it gave me a headache..haha.

I think there is a large audience for the 4bt so hopefully you will find the right buyer. I have been wondering the price point difference between a gas vs diesel build if any but probably a smaller audience.
 
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