1994 Roller 351W: Rebuild or buy new block?

[kholding]

I have been collecting parts for the next build and ran across a 1994 roller 351W in a E350 van that had rolled. I bought it for $200. Overall it looks pretty clean but not sure on the mileage. My plan was to take it to an engine builder for a complete rebuild with new cam and aftermarket heads. Two days later I am offered a brand new Ford 351W block (he says bare block with a couple of little parts) a guy bought years ago and never built. He said he will sell for $500. I'm leaning on input here for which way sounds the best since I am at step #1.

My question:

1. Start with the fresh block and possibly save on machining costs?
2. Rebuild the current engine I have? Not sure yet how much machining (if any) will be needed.

Thanks

 

[bronconut73]

Take both to your engine builder.
Use as many of the van engine parts as you can in the new block.
Keep in mind after a certain year in the mid 90's the Windsor blocks were machined for roller cam use from the factory but it does not mean they have a roller cam. If yours actually has a roller cam and lifters it is a keeper if you are going the roller can route.
They are a great way to fit alot of torque under the curve which is great for off road. The downside is initial cost can be steep for a roller cam and a set of roller lifters.

 

[TwoDalesDad]

Roller lifters are worth 50. Horsepower.....We All Know....That Horsepower is really a Money Issue....The More CASH YOU POUR IN...THE MORE HORSEPOWER YOU END UP WITH.....

 

[rguest3]

351w Roller Blocks have the F4TE code on the block where the starter is located.

I have a F4TE 351w Block from a 94 Van and it is indeed a Roller Block. Like stated, keep as much as you can from the longblock. Serpentine system brackets will fit early Bronco too. You will like the Oil Dip stick as well. Had to shorten mine a little but it is easy to get to especially with a Power Brake Bracket too.

I would suggest Comp Cams - XE264HR, or XE266HR. Get the complete K-Kit as well with all the valve train so you do not have to search for parts or guess what parts will work. Both Cams will work great with a Carb and are very EFI friendly if you go that route as well.

Keep us posted on the build.

 

[Hank_]

I took mine and had it machined. Got the .030 pistons for it so you end up with a couple more cubic inches. I don't know why you would need the other block. I would have the machine shop look at it and see what condition it is in. Seems like $500 should cover most of the machining to the block and you will have all the specs for your bearing and such. If it is the roller motor it is the same I put in mine. Great engine for the bronco.

Henry

 

[JLBachs]

I think I'd take what you have to the machinist BEFORE shelling out another $500. My roller 351 came out of a '94 truck in the local pap so I can't say how many miles, but you can still see the cross-hatching on the cylinder walls and can't come near catching a fingernail at the top. If yours is like mine, you can use that $500 for more fun stuff like that cam kit

 

[kholding]

It is the F4TE block. I will bring it to the machinist and see what all they think it needs. Just figured if the block needed to be bored it would probably cost the same to buy the new block and just move as many parts over as I could.

 

[tinytim02]

Just an FYI, when you take your block to the machinist, have them check around the number 2 and number 4 cam bearing area for cracks:

http://forums.corral.net/forums/5-0...-must-read-psa-windsor-roller-block-guys.html

I've got a F4TE block in the garage waiting for a rebuild; I found this corral.net thread when I was researching the 351w roller blocks.

 

[kholding]

Copy that. Thanks for the link.

 

[Letsgocrawling]

That's a very interesting concern noted on corral, i'm running a 96 roller block, because after sonic checking the roller block and two early windsor specimons the 96 showed way better material mass in the important areas we were looking at. Cylinder wall, main journal, deck, mass was signifintly thicker in those areas, as the taller lifter bore being important for my application. The doner engine had 75k milage and was virgin so we felt we had done our homework. I hope this isn't going to be a surprise---so far so good!

 

[needabronco]

I pulled my 351 out of a delivery van with unknown millions of miles, but it did have a very fresh transmission in it and zero body damage... The only thing I found wrong was a bad lifter, the piston bores mic'd damned near perfect and it will be going g back together with the stock pistons!

I'd check the engine you have out first before dropping money on another block.