205 idler shaft, shims, side play in case

[nvrstuk]

I'm rebuilding at 205, all bearings and gears look new. No wear on the inside of the case anywhere. Here's the dilemma, when I shim the idler shaft and gear set with the two Timken bearings in place between the spacer and each bearing, I get exactly .002" of play which is what the book calls for.

When I install that assembly in my case, then torque the nut at 125 pounds, I can slide the gearset inside the case back-and-forth. .160 inches.

I've heard of people putting additional shims between the case and the bearings but I can't find any evidence online of needing to do this. Has anybody had to do this? Like I said the case looks fine without any wear, but it's obvious that you don't want the gearset sliding back-and-forth in the case.

 

[nvrstuk]

Here you can see I put a couple of shims plus my feeler gauge between the end of the bearing and the case to give you an idea how much space there is.

 

[broncnaz]

The play is only measured when the nut is tightened. How are you determining the .002 play?
Does the case appear to have any wear if so that could be the cause of your excessive play with the nut tight. In that case shims outboard of the bearings may help. Whatever side has wear is where Id put the shims.
If the case doesn't have wear then maybe look at your bearings and races. Do you still have the old ones? Are the new ones a good name brand?

 

[nvrstuk]

I wish you could see the short 5 second video showing the side to side play with the idler shaft in place and torqued in place... it's a full .160".

I did not check the brg brand...I'll go check right now... Timken

No wear inside on the case-none.

 

[nvrstuk]

I wish you could see the short 5 second video showing the side to side play with the idler shaft in place and torqued in place... it's a full .160".

I did not check the brg brand...I'll go check right now... Timken

No wear inside on the case-none.

Here's another quick pic...no discernible wear pattern on the brg or race.

The press is in town so I put over 100 lbs on the assembled shaft with the shims and measured .002" end play. Installed the gearset into the case and measured .160" side to side play.

 

[nvrstuk]

Here's the mystery shim...I found it in two different manuals...

Line E:

http://www.kingomatic.com/King-O-Ma...l-Trans-and-Transfer-Case-Parts-Catalogue.pdf

 

[broncnaz]

Yeah you might need to install some thrust washers between the bearings and case. A good bearing shop can get you the size you need. You could also use machine bushings some hardware stores carry them not sure on sizes available but I'm sure they could be ordered in the size needed. Id probably half you current play and put one on each side of the gear. .160 is a lot no way the case will flex enough to take that up.
I'm wondering if the original bearings or races had a slightly different spec specifically for NP and the new bearings are just considered suitable subs. I run into a lot of stuff that is proprietary to certain companies many times you can only buy from the OEM or have to be the OEM to get the correct part and aftermarket parts may have a slightly different spec. Of course I would think that as old as the NP 205 is that proprietary would no longer be the case as usually after things are no longer in production bearings and such become available.

 

[nvrstuk]

Thanks for the info. I've got things figured out, my local John Deere dealer has shims in many different sizes and I went down with my calipers and just found what I needed.

You were dead on about proprietary bearings and manufacturers!