2100 carb question

[big jim]

I had a float sticking problem and I think the air bleeds were a little clogged. No big deal, I got a kit from napa and I'm just about finished putting it back together. On the back passenger side there is a little vacuum modulator that hooks to the choke linkage. From my research it is called a "*Control Assy-Vacuum Break" motorcraft part# ck-1985. I think the diaphragm is bad. My question is do I need it? I was also having a problem with our not coming all the way down to idle after it was warmed up unless I blipped the throttle a little, maybe this is why. I can find nos ones online for 45 bucks but I don't want to get it if I don't need it. I can't figure out how to jack the picture but it is on this page.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/679011-2100-choke-vacuum-control.html
Amy help would be appreciated. Thanks
Brian

 

[big jim]

more info

Maybe a little more info is needed. It is the original carb on my 72. I know not all the 2100's had this piece. So does someone know what to do to get the carb to act right without it?

 

[Rustytruck]

If the diaphragm is ruptured at the minimum you will have a vacuum leak.

 

[Jimmys74]

Here this link should help you figure some things out...

https://www.google.com/search?q=two...P_In5GOyAIVgcuACh0BPgmb#imgrc=Dd8IJCSsrk-OGM:

 

[jckkys]

This is the part you would need for a '72 Motorcraft 2100;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/281392945706?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82
They were used on '71-'74 Motorcraft 2100s, not '58-'75s as the auction description says.

 

[big jim]

Thank you, but that's not it.
http://classicbroncos.com/photos/showgallery.php/cat/all/si/2015-09-24-10-28-50--1786233720

 

[jckkys]

The choke pull down diaphragm in your photo is available here;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/D2AZ-9S514-...OKE-PULL-OFF-MOTORCRAFT-CK-1985-/252096014927
This is an odd part only used on 2100s in '72, in conjunction with the diaphragm I suggested. It looks like the 2150 pull off. I can't say why Ford used 2 diaphragms to do the same job. Most automatic chokes need a tap on the accelerator to completely open the choke and come off the fast idle cam once the engine is warm.

 

[big jim]

Thank you. The high idle was agree warmed up and driving when I came to a stop it would be idling a little high. I yahoo the throttle and it would come down. Next stop same think. I think I find that problem. Both stove pipes from the manifold are broken so now I think I'll have to pull the manifold to fix that. Unless someone had a better idea.
I ordered that part from eBay and I'll pick up the universal choke pipe kit from napa tomorrow. I was hoping this was a simple carb rebuild and back in the road.

 

[big jim]

I don't have to pull the manifold. Just the dip sick and the heat shield. A couple choke tube kits and I should be OK for now. I can't figure out how to post a link but the part in going to get is a balkamp bk6101114. I'm pretty sure 2 of these will get me back on the road