2150 Motorcraft carb rebuild

[Buckeye Rob]

I'm going to make my first attempt (with some experienced help) at rebuilding a carb. The problem is no one lists the full carb tag number that I have (see picture). My Bronco is a 75 and this carb appears to be a 77. I spoke to Mike's and he's reasonably certain what kit I should buy but said he's never heard of the "K2A". I've searched the Internet and can't find the whole D7AE-K2A number. Any ideas?

 

[broncnaz]

Wouldnt worry about it pretty much all carb kits are the same they cover pretty much all the years anyhow. As long as it covers a D7AE you should be fine. Heck most of the kits include all the parts you need for either 2100 or 2150 carbs.

 

[WheelHorse]

I went with the O' Reilly's Walker Carburetor Tune Up kit.

Part #15593D Comes with a 8" PV

Be sure to order a new float as well.

Part #100-21

I like the Holley 6.5 power valve; replaced the Walker one with a Holley PV from Summit Racing.

After the rebuild, double check the fuel running height per the manual. These carbs are extremely easy to rebuild and take almost nothing to dial them in.

 

[Justafordguy]

X3, the kits will cover almost all of the 2100 and 2150 carbs. It's the easiest carb to rebuild for sure. X2 the float level is very important on this carb so pay close attention when you set it. Sometimes I even put the carb back on the truck, crank it to fill the boal and then remove the top again to double check the float level.

By the way, I think that part number in your picture is for that part that's bolted on the carb, not the carb itself.

 

[Buckeye Rob]

X3, the kits will cover almost all of the 2100 and 2150 carbs. It's the easiest carb to rebuild for sure. X2 the float level is very important on this carb so pay close attention when you set it. Sometimes I even put the carb back on the truck, crank it to fill the boal and then remove the top again to double check the float level.

By the way, I think that part number in your picture is for that part that's bolted on the carb, not the carb itself.

Correct. The tag in the picture is from the choke pull off because the tag is missing on my carb but the D7AE seems to be how the carb numbers start out and my carb looks like a 2150. I guess I'll know when the rebuild kit arrives. I purchased a new float and choke pull off too.

 

[Buckeye Rob]

I went with the O' Reilly's Walker Carburetor Tune Up kit.

Part #15593D Comes with a 8" PV

Be sure to order a new float as well.

Part #100-21

I like the Holley 6.5 power valve; replaced the Walker one with a Holley PV from Summit Racing.

After the rebuild, double check the fuel running height per the manual. These carbs are extremely easy to rebuild and take almost nothing to dial them in.

Mike's Carburetor told me to purchase FL100-42 Motorcraft 2100 2150 Carburetor Float rather than the nitrophyl float that O'Reilly's appears to be. Here's Mike's nitrophyl http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Motorcraft-2100-2150-Carburetor-Float_p_358.html. I guess I'll know which I have when I pull the carb apart but why is there a brass and a nitrophyl?

 

[broncnaz]

Wouldnt have mattered mikes float is Nitrophyl too. (New Motorcraft 2100, 2150 float. Nitrophyl.)

 

[WheelHorse]

Wouldnt have mattered mikes float is Nitrophyl too. (New Motorcraft 2100, 2150 float. Nitrophyl.)

Well that's what I was wondering, one, would it come in a Motorcraft box and two, who's the Motorcraft vendor?

For the most part, I'm all for OEM, but the law in the US is any manufacturer no longer has to make parts for a vehicle once it passes the ten year mark, so chances are, as were originally, someone else is making the part.

I'd love to hear the reason as to why Mike's part is better than the Walker part. I know with rebuilding motorcycle carbs, I only use OEM needles and seats to acquire accurate float height readings (springs are stiffer on the needles than the aftermarket junk) but unlike most UJM companies where they still have quality parts available for 30-40 year old machines, a lot of stuff for cars doesn't seem to be available through the OEM.

 

[broncnaz]

I dont have any real answer I guess you'll have to see what you actually get. I really doubt mikes is a actual motorcraft part either. Probably just hype on his part to sell more stuff. As long as the float floats its fine no matter who makes it.

 

[Buckeye Rob]

I didn't mean for it to come across like Mike's was trying to talk me out of someone else's float. When I enter my carb number on their site it shows two floats. When I talked to them they just said go with the brass and I didn't ask why they show both floats.

 

[broncnaz]

Back in the early days brass floats were about all there was they are fine. Just got to keep a eye on them. I've had one fail. It developed a pino hole and filled with gas flooding the engine.
Supposedly brass is better than the nitrophyl for holding up to achohol. Although even with higher levels of ethanol in todays fuel few manufacturers use brass floats. But your probably better off using the brass ones anyway. I just thought you were refering to the parts store nitrophyl vs mikes nitrophyl float.

 

[WheelHorse]

You know, this seems to be one of those heavily opinionated topics.

The president of Pony Carbs says only two Nitrophyl floats have been deemed bad in 22 years of service work on Motorcraft carbs and therefore they replace all brass with Nitrophyl if a Nitrophyl replacement is available.

http://mustangtimes.net/33-3/pg56.pdf

It's why I went with my research and this guy's VAST knowledge and rolled with the Nitrophyl.

Some say Nitrophyl has a better buoyancy than brass, but then there are other's who run E85, in race cars, say Nitrophyl floats should be replaced every year for bracket racing consistency. I found one claim saying where his float had become heavy.

I've read that ethanol will attack the solder on the brass as will heat and time.

Of course, Pony Carbs are now Champion carb, so take it for what it's worth.

 

[broncnaz]

Yep lots of opinions out there on the subject. Seems brass is suggested for full achohol carbs. the nitrophyl doesnt have a good track record with achohol. Of course it seems to hold up fine with the blends we run everyday. So its a toss up.
The nitrophyl floats are slightly heavier than the brass ones so they may respond slightly slower to fuel levels.

 

[Buckeye Rob]

We rebuilt it yesterday. It had nitrophyl float but we decided to try out the brass. Carb wasn't too dirty but it sure works better now. The new power valve from Mike's Carburetor had more windings on the spring than stock. Being a novice I'm not sure whether that matters, just an observation. My friend showed me how to check the timing too. It was at 20 degrees so we adjusted that to 10. She's purring like a kitten now.

 

[half cab]

Can you tell by looking at this tag what carb I have? I believe it's a 2100 but not sure?

 

[half cab]

Can you tell by looking at this tag what carb I have? I believe it's a 2100 but not sure?

After looking at a motorcraft carb site ...they show it to be a 2150 (74-78)yrs?