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3-speed manual clutch - wheels stop immediately in gear when pedal engaged

jake2077

Jr. Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2018
Messages
106
71 Bronco with a rebuilt 3 speed transmission and refreshed dana 20 transfer box performed by a local shop. Rebuilt engine with new clutch disc/plate and have good engagement with gears overall (still some linkage adjustment to do). Behavior that's got me confused is when in gear (2H on the T-tyle shifter) the back wheels turn as expected with clutch pedal released and in gear. When I press the clutch pedal in the wheels stop abruptly on or off pavement instead of coasting, which is what I'd expect. I did do a rear disc conversion and the wheels turn freely without much effort otherwise so I'm not sure the brakes are causing the wheels to stop. There is good separation from the throw-out bearing and clutch plate when idling and clutch pedal not engaged. Appreciate the help.
 

U13FL735

Jr. Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2018
Messages
170
Will the truck roll ok with the motor off, and in neutral, and parking brake off, or is something dragging then too? Is it a situation where wheels won't roll only when things are warm? Disc brakes always have some small drag, but should not "stop abruptly". I would say you have some service brake or park brake issue.
 
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jake2077

jake2077

Jr. Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2018
Messages
106
Will the truck roll ok with the motor off, and in neutral, and parking brake off, or is something dragging then too? Is it a situation where wheels won't roll only when things are warm? Disc brakes always have some small drag, but should not "stop abruptly". I would say you have some service brake or park brake issue.
I pulled off one of the Toms Bronco calipers last night to replace a rear axle seal. Think I'll pull the other side and just put the wheels back on without any brakes and test again. Thanks for the help.
 

ssray

Full Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2010
Messages
572
Loc.
South Central NE
I pulled off one of the Toms Bronco calipers last night to replace a rear axle seal. Think I'll pull the other side and just put the wheels back on without any brakes and test again. Thanks for the help.
Did you add a proportioning valve with the rear discs? Just a shot in the dark as I‘m not sure if it’s possible but a bad or defective valve holding pressure for a bit but bleeds down when parked …. so when you check the wheels they are free. I‘ve also heard that brake hose can swell and cause restriction…how much I don’t know.

Scott
 
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jake2077

jake2077

Jr. Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2018
Messages
106
Did you add a proportioning valve with the rear discs. Just a shot in the dark as I‘m not sure if it’s possible but a bad or defective valve holding pressure for a bit but bleeds down when parked …. The so when you check the wheels they are free. I‘ve heard that brake hose can swell and cause restriction…how much I don’t know.

Scott

Yeah, I have the 4-disc propositioning valve and used the plastic plug when bleeding the brakes first go-round. Will zero-out here this afternoon and start again to see if there is any difference.
 
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jake2077

jake2077

Jr. Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2018
Messages
106
So I removed the rear brakes completely and put the wheels back on with the entire vehicle on stands. Put it in 3rd and let it run for a minute then pressed in the clutch and the wheels continued to spin and slow down gradually. So I think the brakes and maybe the rebuilt differential etc.. was making it appear to have some binding but I think it's good overall. Reset the rear disk conversion and bled the brakes again and it seems to operate well. I guess with everything being rebuilt it may take some driving to settle in and loosen up?
 
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