300 straight six help?

[nathan.hall1]

Ok this is not for my bronco but it is for my dads 84 f150, but I figured there is a wealth of knowledge here and one of you guys can help me out,

I justified posting it here because this 300 straight six is in some broncos ...lol


Anyway no spark, I tried the parts shotgun method because parts were cheap I replaced the coil and distributer and still no spark...

If I managed to put the distributer in 180 backwards it would still spark right? Just not run very well? I pretty sure I got it right just thought...
But I have one of those little spark testers that is shaped like a spark plug with a clamp on the end to hook to ground, I got nothing I hooked it up to a running vehicle to elimate my tester.

 

[73azbronco]

84 is a TFI fuel injected 300?

I'm not following why you would want to install the dizzy 180 out or have you been working on it and that may have happened? More history please.

 

[ugly74]

If the distributor is in backwards, it will still spark, yes. Do you have power at the coil?

 

[Bronco73]

Replace the module yet? It may have a broken wire. Did it just die and no other symptoms?

 

[Broncobowsher]

Pull the cap, jump the starter solenoid. Does the rotor spin? Gears can strip, oil pumps can sieze and shear drive pins.

 

[nathan.hall1]

Replace the module yet? It may have a broken wire. Did it just die and no other symptoms?

Yeah it just died, while my dad was driving it sputtered and he was on side of road..


No fuel injection, I'll check the module

I don't think I put it in backwards it was just a thought I had

Thanks for the suggestions

 

[73azbronco]

TFI distributor?

Customer Concern:

No start, no spark. Distributor and ignition coil were replaced.



Tests/Procedures:

1. Verify battery voltage is present at the White/Light Blue (W/LB) wire of the ignition coil with the ignition switch in the Run and Crank positions.

2. Install a standard 12-volt test light between the battery positive terminal and the Dark Green/Yellow (DG/Y) wire of the ignition coil, leaving the coil connected. When cranking the engine, the test light should illuminate to flicker a trigger signal of the coil.

3. If there is no trigger signal present on the DG/Y wire, back probe the Dark Blue (DB) wire with a Digital Volt Ohmmeter (DVOM) and read the voltage with the key in the Run position. Voltage should indicate less than 0.5 volts or within 0.5 volts of battery voltage.

4. Bump-crank the engine and take several more Key On, Engine Off (KOEO) readings of the DB wire to verify that the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) switches to the opposite extreme reading thereby verifying that the distributor pickup coil is functional.

5. Check the Red/Light Blue (R/LB) wire of the ICM connection indicates battery voltage in the Crank position of the ignition switch.

6. If testing indicates no coil trigger signal but the PIP signal is present, replace the ignition coil and the TFI Module and recheck for spark and coil trigger as needed.



Potential Causes:

Circuit Connector
Defective Distributor Stator
Ignition Coil
Defective Thick Film Ignition (TFI) Module


Tech Tips:

When replacing the TFI module, use a mirror to inspect the 3 pin stator connector that the module plugs into on the under side of the distributor. If the connector is damaged, replace the distributor stator also. Heat from the engine and module causes the insulating material in the connector to deteriorate and cause the terminals to short together or to push the terminals out of the way and not make good contact when plugging in the new module causing a no spark condition.




Read more: 1984 Ford F150: Wont start..distributor (..connector..ignition coil - JustAnswer http://www.justanswer.com/ford/5p0t...or-connector-ignition-coil.html#ixzz2HRLZSfmq

 

[nathan.hall1]

Thanks that is perfect I'll go try it out