302 EFI swap vs. replacement 5.0L/5.8L

[mortimersnerd]

One of the things I'm hoping to do in the next year is converting my truck to EFI. I'd also like to do a serpentine conversion. After pricing everything out, I'm beginning to wonder if it would cost me about the same to do a complete engine swap with a used or junkyard engine. My 302 appears to be in decent shape (need to do a compression test) but has about 40k on a rebuild per the previous owner. He had most of the work on the truck professionally done, so I'm assuming its a reman long block, although I don't know for sure. I'm tempted to go with a 5.8L for the extra power, but am not sure what is involved in the conversion over a 5.0. The current plan is to add power steering and hydroboost in the near future and I was seriously considering doing the serpentine swap as long as I've got everything apart and am buying a power steering pump anyway. What do you all think? Is it worth converting my engine a little at a time (serpentine and EFI separately) or just saving up and doing the whole thing at once and winding up with a newer engine to boot?

 

[NYLES]

I think you could save money with a full 5.0 efi serp motor, can get more than enough power out a 5.0....if you efi a 351 your gonna be spending more becacause youll need the 5.0 upper intake and conversion plate not a lot more but less stuff to have to find.

I saw a complete 5.0 on ebay for 1100$ clean resealed looked like a nice deal, get something like that the rjm efi harness 550$ call it 1700$ your 5.0in fuel injected style!

yes junkyard motors more than likley can be had for less than 1100$...but who knows why its there?

on the other hand, whats so special about a serp belt front? IMHO big deal I run 2 belts what a killer, no need for diff WP, radiator all that stuff....Id just swap what you have to efi, 550$ for RJM's harness the rest can be found dirt cheap

MYO2

 

[mortimersnerd]

I'd like to go serpentine to free up a little more room on the front of the engine (taurus fan or other stuff) and get rid of the annoying squeak I sometimes get out of my 130A alternator when its under load. I've had to crank the belt down to minimize it and its too tight.

 

[NYLES]

bar a soap will stop it, I just throwing options and opinions at ya

 

[fungus]

I see complete 5.0s all the time on CL for $500 (+ or -) in wrecked stangs. I'm putting EFI on my 69 302 but it's a really strong motor and a known commodity. I've already got an Explorer serp on the front and just need to get my GT-40 heads freshened up to bolt on w/ the explorer/ stang EFI stuff which I already have in my parts bins to include a new RJM harness. By the time you piece together both a serp and efi setup I think you'd be money ahead just to do a full swap.

If you're even thinking about a 5.8 though, I'd just wait and do the complete conversion with a late model 351W. 94-96 5.8s were roller blocks too so, if time is on your side, you could stumble onto one of those! 5.0 upper, adapter from BC, RJM harness & some new fuel system goodies and you'd be in business.

 

[Hank_]

I am in the process of installing a 351 EFI in mine now. I paid $500 for a 95 f250 that had the ZF 5 speed and the roller 351. I picked up a 96 explorer 5.0 for $350. I pulled the parts off the f259 and got $415.00 back at the scrap yard. I picked up a lightening lower intake with inj and all sensors for $400.00. I pulled the 351 apart and sent it off to the machine shop with the gt heads off the explorer motor. I am doing a stock rebuild. I will use the explorer upper intake and the explorer serp system. I still have to buy wiring, fuel tank and pump, headers, exhaust and distributer and coil, computer and maf sensor and air filter (so at least $2500.00 more). Hope this helps with your decision.

Henry

 

[brocken]

On the 3G alternator squeak issue - I was able to fix the squeak in mine by getting a larger diameter pulley. I think what I have on there is a 3-1/4" x 1/2".
Now my belt sits in there correctly and the larger diameter means less torque on a small spot of belt. It does mean I get less amperage out of the alternator but one of the vendors stated it would still be more than plenty.
I've had no charging issues since then either. Lights don't dim and battery gets charged.

I understand the fan reason for changing... my fan sits really close to my aluminum radiator. I will live with that if the squeal is gone though. I don't do hardcore off-roading so I'm not super worried about fan eating radiator.