351W Block Dipstick Hole

[airbur]

Any ideas on what to do with this hole since I'm using a Bronco pan and dipstick? It's a 1994 351W block. The hole isn't threaded. What is the best way to plug it? Should I use a mini freeze-plug? Thanks.

Found this... http://forums.corral.net/forums/5-0-5-8-engine-tech/1366174-two-holes-one-dipstick.html

 

[mp]

I tapped it, and sunk a gooped up allen head bolt, set up for a 60 degree chamfer, into it. Easy to do when its apart.

 

[airbur]

Cool. Since I already have the engine together, tapping isn't the direction I want to go. I think the 3/8s freeze plug will work if I can find one.

 

[mattt]

I used an 1/8" npt pipe plug on mine. Sealed up good and a very close match diameter wise.

 

[KyleQ]

Too bad you put that pan on there. I hate that style, it will leak and fail eventually... The block dipsticks dont have that problem...

 

[jckkys]

Looks like about 1/2". Most parts stores will have press in plug, like a core plug, to fit.

 

[BroncoBrandon]

Too bad you put that pan on there. I hate that style, it will leak and fail eventually... The block dipsticks dont have that problem...

I was thinking that the block dipstick hole would leak more that the threaded one in the pan.

 

[Scoop]

I used a bolt that slides into the hole without tapping the hole and just used JB Weld to hold it in. No leaks for ~8 years now! It's not sealing any pressure so if you clean it up good so it sticks well the JB Weld will hold no problem.

 

[bronconut73]

I was thinking that the block dipstick hole would leak more that the threaded one in the pan.

Agreed. Twenty+ years on mine. Never a leak.

 

[KyleQ]

I was thinking that the block dipstick hole would leak more that the threaded one in the pan.

Nope, it was changed for a reason and I've seen multiple oil pans that leak in that specific spot. That sits IN the oil it's entire life, the block insert sits well above where the oil sits.

The dipstick tube can be pulled out with the engine running and nothing comes out and simply goes back in. Imagine of one of those rivets popped out...


I've never seen oil come out of the block hole myself -

 

[BroncoBrandon]

Come to think of it my 94 F150 had the dip stick in the block but I never checked to see if it leaked.

 

[tasker]

JUST ran into this myself.....used a bearing from a tapered roller, put some super secret Ford sealer on it and voila~.....no leaks!

 

[airbur]

Napa had a 3/8" cup plug that fit perfectly.

KyleQ...pans are easy to change out if it indeed does leak.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Napa had a 3/8" cup plug that fit perfectly.

KyleQ...pans are easy to change out if it indeed does leak.

X2

The tiny welch plugs can be hard to find at the big brake pad and alternator parts stores. Napa was the only parts store that I could find the tiny plugs.

 

[KyleQ]

Napa had a 3/8" cup plug that fit perfectly.

KyleQ...pans are easy to change out if it indeed does leak.

Haha - sure they are, I know mine is as I cut the engine cross member out, but if you want to swap pans that motor has to come out... All I'm saying is I've seen them leak, it sucks and a pan without that obviously wont leak there. If someone is building a motor it would be easy enough to put a modern pan onit and not have to worry about it in the future.

 

[airbur]

I went through 2 different "modern" pans (Canton Racing and Miloden) before ordering this one. Both those pans had a number of clearance issues due to the extended stroke of the 427 coupled with the windage tray and ARP studs. Also both of those pans had manufacturing defects that turned me off. I decided to save my time, $, and energy and ordered one from a Bronco vendor that I knew would work.

 

[KyleQ]

I went through 2 different "modern" pans (Canton Racing and Miloden) before ordering this one. Both those pans had a number of clearance issues due to the extended stroke of the 427 coupled with the windage tray and ARP studs. Also both of those pans had manufacturing defects that turned me off. I decided to save my time, $, and energy and ordered one from a Bronco vendor that I knew would work.

There is lots of talk about those style of pans not being flat, not being machined after welding, not concentric aroudn the crank ends, etc etc. Factory stock parts seem to go together the best - my mention of a modern pan would be towards a pan off a 90's pickup or van. But hey - its on there and the originals rarely leaked, so you will be fine for another 30 years or so without worrying about it. Not like it matters, most of the EB's are parked with cardboard under them anyway