351W Block for 408 Stroker build

[LowCountryEB]

I'm ready to have a 408 stroker built. I've located a few 351W blocks in my area for $200-$250. I've learned the a roller motor is preferred. Is that the case? I've found a 1992 from an F250 and a 1995 from an E350 Van. Does it matter which block I should get or are these similar? Which year block, etc... is the best to get for this build? Also, which stroker kit brand (Scat, Eagle, etc...) AND Cam is the best for the build? My Bronco is a weekend street driver and will not be taken off-road. And where is the best place to buy these parts/supplies? Thanks for your help!

 

[Broncobowsher]

Oh so many choices. As for the block. Are you going to run a hydraulic roller cam?
Typically a modern roller hydraulic cam is the most desirable, so the '95 block would be a great choice. But if you are going solid roller or flat tappet lifter, the older block could be a little stronger. This is providing that both blocks are still rebuildable. IF one has already been rebuilt once before, I wouldn't rebuild it again. I know they make pistons up to .060 overbore, but you should be able to build an engine with no more than an .030 overbore.

How wild do want the engine? Do you just want a stocky engine with mountains of torque? Do you want it to idle like a top fuel dragster? You can build a stroker all kinds of ways. A cast crank and I-beam rods with cast pistons will work for mild builds. But when you start cranking up the power, the RPM, and the cylinder pressures than stepping up to forged crank, H-beam rods, and forged pistons start becoming a good idea.

 

[LowCountryEB]

I want to run 93 or less fuel; Want a torque monster and similar HP (at least 425 each). I'm running 35's now with an NP435 and 4:11's.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Aluminum heads. 10~10.5:1 compression. Cast bottom end will be fine.

Have you read through this yet? http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=196925

 

[bax]

you could look at this. I'm saving up.
http://www.tmeyerinc.com/product-p/tmi-420clevor.htm

 

[Crawdad]

Casey835 is building a beefed up econovan 351w for his bronco. He's just right up the road from you in Holly Hill. Casey is a great guy and is in Charleston a good bit with work.
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=241322

 

[sykanr0ng]

I would say the 1995

1994 up is roller cam.

The 1992 is probably not stronger than the 1995 (or not enough to really matter), but lacks the set-up for roller lifters.

If you don't care about a roller cam you might try to find a 1969-1974 block in rebuildable condition, those were the strongest, enough metal to have four bolt mains on bearing saddles 2, 3, and 4.

 

[Broncobowsher]

The old short deck blocks are a pain to use. It is hard to keep the compression ratio low enough with a stroker, having a short deck just makes it worse. The stroker kits are based on 9.503 or 9.500 deck height, that 9.480 doesn't sound like much, but can easily bump the compression ratio half a point and stick the piston out the top of the deck. Not good.

For the most part any 351 block will survive just fine in stock for up to the 700~750 HP range. No need blowing money beefing up what is already strong enough. There are better places to spend money if you have extra to spend.

Post '83 blocks are a 1-piece rear main seal. Good way to prevent oil leaks.
I have heard the roller blocks are a little more prone to having cracks in the lifter valley. Not enough to scare me away from them, but enough to do a little extra inspection of the block in that area. From what I have been reading they are cracks in perfectly good running engines that were being rebuilt. I would still prefer the roller block, that would be my first choice.