351w + Prop Valve + Brake Lines

[StnePny]

I would like to see pictures of you guys with 351's with headers (long tube) how you routed your brake lines from the prop valve to the front brake line going to the diff.

I having lots of clearence issues, any help would be appiecated before I try and venture out to have New Hard Lines made.

Charles

 

[BroncoDarin]

Somewhere on here I posted pictures of my rerouted prop. valve. Because I kept burning them up by the headers, I moved it up to the firewall between the booster and fender. Switched to flexible ss lines from it to to the front junction and to the point of the lines that would normally attach to the rear line off the valve.
Be warned though, the AN fittings and flexible lines cost about twice as much as the proportioning valve.

Good luck!

 

[BroncoMark]

I'll snap some pictures of mine. I went with flexible lines because I had to snake them around the headers and the steering shaft.

 

[StnePny]

I would really like to see pictures to see how & which way Mod's would go best

This is with a 351 & '76-'77 Prop Valve + Hard SS Lines

After a second look I may have to Re-Bend & Cut to the Brake Union on the Frame

 

[stock1970]

sometimes you can pry the headers over a tiny bit when they are hot away from the brake valve.. I have flex lines from master down to junction because that is what came with the powerbrake set up from duffs.. I also pryed the junction away from the headers a little so that the lines run between the steering column and the inner finder.. I will try and take some pics if i get a chance..

 

[JWMcCrary]

Not easy to see because a hose is partially blocking the view, but I used 2 clamps similar to what you use to clamp the brake lines and fuel lines to the frame, only larger and insulated. The are big enough that the hoses can move slightly and still be held away from the headers against the inner fender. I did this along with prying the headers over about 1/4 inch when they were hot, and also moved the proportioning valve over on the frame. I used a flat piece of metal as a clamp and bolted in the stock hole with the proportioning valve moved over about 1/2 inch.