4R70W Advanced Adapter help

[SC74]

Got the Dana 20 in last night and wanted to add a few pics and heads up for someone in the future.
I removed the bearing retainer, put the gasket on, and put retsiner back in.

I installed the studs in the D20 that came with the adapter. I measured and threaded them into the adapter 3/4”, leaving 1-1/4” to go through the adapter and enough thread for washer and nut. Now that it’s in, it could have gone in 1” because I have enough thread for almost another nut after tightening. I don’t think the studs really hold the weight of the case though. I think the machined bearing retainer supports the case and the studs just hold them tight together. It would be hard to believe 6- 3/8” bolts on one side would be expected to support that much weight, and then add bumps into the equation.

The middle stud on the driver side is the hardest to access. I did have to thread this stud in farther just to allow room to get a nut started. It actually interferes with the adapter if you only thread it in 3/4”. I was able to use some needle nose vice grips and get a few more turns on it to allow room for the nut to start. I have a pic attached showing the location of this. The shift rails don’t help. I ended up grinding down a cheap 9/16” wrench to allow room to reach in there and get 1/8” revolution turns on that nut.

I couldn’t do this without the help here and all the things I learn by searching. In my searches, I see that most others have used the adapter where you cut the stock transmission shaft. After that, most of the info overlaps.

 

[Yeller]

Can't wait to see this back on the road

please say your putting new shoes on that old girl before you start putting some mile on her..... those are ancient, hate to see you mess up the new paint with a zippered sidewall

 

[ba123]

Is there a reason to do it in this order, or could you have installed the tranny and D20 together? Would that have been more difficult to get up there? Was thinking of doing it this way and maybe make a lift with a jack and a wood frame to support it.

Trying to plan for my install.

 

[Jaybr]

Is there a reason to do it in this order, or could you have installed the tranny and D20 together? Would that have been more difficult to get up there? Was thinking of doing it this way and maybe make a lift with a jack and a wood frame to support it.

Trying to plan for my install.

I did mine like the OP, and I think it would be a lot easier to install the TC to the tranny first, then tranny to engine. I had to loosen the crossmember and jack up the tranny to get the bottom nut on.

 

[SC74]

Is there a reason to do it in this order, or could you have installed the tranny and D20 together? Would that have been more difficult to get up there? Was thinking of doing it this way and maybe make a lift with a jack and a wood frame to support it.

Trying to plan for my install.

That's a real good question, and without having done it that way also I can't say yes or no. I don't know of any reason to say don't do it that way. I also had to remove the crossmember to gain access to one bottom bolt. The fridge was empty when I went in last night LOL.

 

[ba123]

Ok, thanks for both answers. Unless anyone else chimes in, I’ll try together and report. Might be a few weeks or so.

 

[ba123]

Got the Dana 20 in last night and wanted to add a few pics and heads up for someone in the future.
I removed the bearing retainer, put the gasket on, and put retsiner back in.

I installed the studs in the D20 that came with the adapter. I measured and threaded them into the adapter 3/4”, leaving 1-1/4” to go through the adapter and enough thread for washer and nut. Now that it’s in, it could have gone in 1” because I have enough thread for almost another nut after tightening. I don’t think the studs really hold the weight of the case though. I think the machined bearing retainer supports the case and the studs just hold them tight together. It would be hard to believe 6- 3/8” bolts on one side would be expected to support that much weight, and then add bumps into the equation.

The middle stud on the driver side is the hardest to access. I did have to thread this stud in farther just to allow room to get a nut started. It actually interferes with the adapter if you only thread it in 3/4”. I was able to use some needle nose vice grips and get a few more turns on it to allow room for the nut to start. I have a pic attached showing the location of this. The shift rails don’t help. I ended up grinding down a cheap 9/16” wrench to allow room to reach in there and get 1/8” revolution turns on that nut.

I couldn’t do this without the help here and all the things I learn by searching. In my searches, I see that most others have used the adapter where you cut the stock transmission shaft. After that, most of the info overlaps.

Aww man, I put my D20 input shaft and retainer last night and then remembered to look at this thread…took it out and then put the gasket. I read somewhere (instruction somewhere) that someone said you need to trim it but this is clearly the right way.