'67 doors is this enough paint removal, what type of primer??

[Miker]

Here are a couple of before and after pics of the first door I am working on on that '67 EB I bought a month or so ago. Several of you offered up good comments as to what you thought it was worth (I got it for $400)
Anyway, went to the shop today and sanded the driver door down and was lucky to find very little bondo and the bottom cleaned up pretty nice as well.
What do you huys think, and what should I primer this with as soon as I get it sanded just the way it needs to be?

Also, for giggles, what are these '67 doors worth in this kind of shape?

 

[broncnaz]

No see no pics but a good pair of doors can be worth the $400 you paid for the whole rig.

 

[Miker]

oops, just added the pics

 

[barronj]

It's easy to take the door hardware out, I would do that, along w/ removing the mirror, if I were you. Also, it seems like you need to go over it w/ 120, then 180, to take out some of those scratches I see in the metal.

I'll go photo my sanded door.

I've seen what painted surfaces look like where the sanding marks still show, and it aint pretty. This door still needs a lot of work, both with smoothing it down & filling a few low spots.

 

[red moon]

you are going to want to put a etch primer on them or an epoxy primer, now if your going to sell them just hit them with a rattle can and get them gone but if you are going to keep them use the etch or epoxy, you can find them in rattle cans to but they are a little more expensive

 

[Miker]

BaronJ- yep, still lots of work to do and I am taking everything off of it-exterior/interior this week. That was the coursest crap I could find to cut through the paint and the surface rust. I have all the other grits to follow. I have a few low spots that I will need to fill and block sand but, overall, I am pleased that there was not bondo everywhere. I read somewhere that bondo should be applied to etched primer and not direct to metal??? What do I do?

 

[bax]

Get it ready for primer and use DP90 primer / sealer on it. It is an epoxy sealer and will protect the metal for as long as you need to get the body work done.

 

[barronj]

I read somewhere that bondo should be applied to etched primer and not direct to metal??? What do I do?

That might be the case in certain instances, but I've had bodymen come to my house & show me how to spread pookie (bondo) the right way, and they didn't do anything but really scuff up the metal, as it was already down to bare metal.

 

[ebking]

DP90 primer thats what I used

 

[needabronco]

I used U-Pol Primer on mine, its a high build/direct to metal primer and can be used as a sealer also, it cost me about $75 a gallon at my local paint store, they had a running promotion on it. Because it was a direct to metal primer and a high build it saved quite a bit on buying special sealers, primer surfacers... It was also compatable with PPG paints. the buddy who helped me with some body work issues I had was impressed at the quality of the primer, and he exlusively used Glasruit products.

 

[stupidboy]

I do all my bodywork on top of rust bullet, but dp40 is also good, it has enough resins in it that you get good adhession both ways. I like to rust bullet all bre metal do the bodywork and then put another coat of rust bullet on. The rust bullet isn't porous and wont let water through it like conventional primers and paints, there is no bondo made, (ever) that doesn't absorb mosture, you be glad knoing that all your hard work is protected against the elements the best it can be.