'73 fuel-line PLUMBING PROBLEM- (that 6 way valve)

73EXP · Nov 2, 2002

Hey- You know you're a new EB owner when it's 9:30 on a Saturday night and you have leaves in your hair and gas in your eyes, mouth and nose... ( I D I D use hemostats to clamp the fuel lines...) I just bought a beautiful '73 today to replace my (sob) hit and run (totalled) '71. The seller was super-dilligent about engine care and the car was garaged for 17 years. It's an explorer- factory air, cruise, power everything. A LOT different than my '71.. (more moving parts, more breaky breaky

Here's the hitch- the seller (who lives 50 miles away)just replaced the radiator, dist. cap, rotors and wires- and had gotten the dist. cap on reversed and couldn't start it for me to test drive a week ago- too simple a problem to solve quickly-and we all have stuff to do during theweek- so when it finally turned over and started today, he drove it down, and I drove it and bought it- ( the engine sounds terrific) but while we were signing papers we noticed that THAT GAS SMELL was coming from somewhere other than through the hole left from replacing the 4wd shift on the floor with a split shifter. THAT GAS SMELL was coming from right behind the the right front wheel, where gas is dripping steadily out of what looks to be some kind of vent system. He called it a "breather"- but I can't find it on any schematics anywhere. The '73 is apparently the only EB with a 6 way valve (the dual tank to tank switch) under the front seat- from what I understand, the other EBs had only four ports coming off of the back of the tank switch, and the '73 has 6 ports coming off of the back of the tank switch. SO--- I haven't had a ride (other than rental) since my '71 was totalled last month- and the plan was- that if I don't want it on Monday- then he'll take it back no questions asked. But I want it- The price was right. SO how do I fix this? The "breather" unit that the gas is coming out of has one fuel line running into the top and two air hoses running in and ( I guess ) out of it. It's a round metal canister that's larger than an oil filter. .. The seller suggested that the problem was probably in the two lines coming off of the main tank- and that he probably had them switched. So I switched the one on the back of the tank valve with one he had run into a three way T. Simple- I switched one for another- Then I took the fuel line off of the "breather"- ( removed it from it's bracket and emptied all of the gas out of it, put it back in it's bracket and started the car. Everything seemed to be cleared up- no gas coming out of the fuel-line to the "breather"... So I left the truck running and went to put the tools away- Came back and gas was pouring out of the line to the "breather" again. Because fuel line is only supposed to ( from what he said) put out MIST- is this thing the "carbon cannister" which cleans the vent line air? I don't understand- I have two gas lines coming off the back tank (which I switched) and one coming off of the aux. tank ( that leaves the other three lines of the six to go to what once was the 6 ported tank valve under the driver's seat to be VENT LINES?) Seller suggested I might have a kink or crimp in one of the two lines from the main tank to the tank valve switch - which would cause pressure to build up and send gas to that "breather" thing behind the right front wheel. Anybody know what that thing is? or what could be causing my plumbing problem? Thanks windh2o@earthlink.net

Lonestar · Nov 2, 2002

I too have a 71 and my bronco has smoe capped off fule lines that go into the tub right behind the driver seat. I believe that it was set up with some kind preasure releaf tank or something. I have the 2 releaf hoses clamped and mine seemed to work just fine....

73EXP · Nov 2, 2002

My '71 is no more- long live my new '73 Explorer!! See- none of my hoses are clamped off - but I have gas leaking out of that cannister mounted behind my right front wheel.. Come-on yall, I see people reading- anybody know what that cannister is? I really want to go back outside and fix it!! ( Thanks in advance)

Hnrys69 · Nov 2, 2002

Sounds maybe like a jerry rigged fuel return line maybe??? As for the canister, No ideas. Just bypass it to the fuel pump lol.

Jeepster · Nov 3, 2002

cap it off and be done with it.

cjjhalfcab · Nov 3, 2002

I believe it's a vapor or carbon canister, used for emissions. If you don't have emissions checks, then just cap all of those lines off. My '73 has it also, and nothing is hooked up. If it is what I think it is, it probably has about a 1" flexible foil tube running into it? I would just cap all of that off.

Waverous · Nov 3, 2002

I have a 73 and I have removed the canister and all of the secondary vent lines to and from both canisters - one under the passenger-side firewall and behind the drivers side door striker post. On my aftermarket rear gas tank, I have one vent line to a dual outlet fuel filter to help with vapor lock and the other is capped off. Works well and passes Colorado emmissioins

73EXP · Nov 3, 2002

OK- According to Volume 6 of FoMoCo's Shop Manual Series ( Engine and Emission System Diagnosis) pg 17- This is the only fuel schematic I can find ANYWHERE- (not Tom's nor Jeff's has ANY that show this stuff- just tank schematics) In this diagram on page 17 it shows a "carbon cannister" ( thanks cjjhalfcab and waverous

I also know that 73 was the very beginning of emissions controls... So this "breather" as the seller called it- is in essence ( no pun intended) supposed to take the vented fuel-line output through the carbon and with air pumped through it from the aircleaner, clean that vented air-gas mixture ( with a cannister of carbon

Huh- I got that far last night- but with a bad float in my main tank and all of this gas pouring out of the "carbon canister", I started by switching two fuel lines that the seller said were the only fuel lines he touched, (and therefor may have been reversed) and that didnt work (other than at first for a few minutes- because as soon as I turned my back on it, it was back at it ) So- I'm going to get under it now and look at the whole line system ( starting at the main tank) and look for possibly mashed lines.. Then- I'll see if I can put air through either of the lines from the main tank) barring all that working out- I guess I can cap it off as suggested- but not having dealt with this kind of probelm ( or any fuel problem for that matter-) I dont know HOW to safely and securely cap a fuel line. So here are my Q's 1 HOW do I safely and securely cap a fuel line? 2 Does anyone with a '73 or knowlege of them know WHERE i can get the original six port valve switche fixed (so that it's safe as originally- only one port has a problem from what he told me) 3 Why would I have TWO lines coming off of the main tank? Is one a vent line? 4 And finally- WHERE IS THERE A DIAGRAM OR EXPLANATION OF WHERE THE SIX LINES WENT ORIGINALLY???? So I can just see it and understand it- I would lovvvve just to understannnnd it... Betcha I'm one of the only 37 year old girls in the world who is spending her weekend this way

I'll post a picture of my new '73EXP as soon as she stops dripping

In the mean time- have a look at my totalled '71 sob story at the link below- ( the perp didnt even get charged with 'leaving the scene' - do you think there is a God?) http://www.broncofix.com/board/viewtopic.php?p=3189#3189 My appologies to the Admins for sending yall to another board.. we're all the same packadogs in the end eh? And thanks for the suggs. A

Jeepster · Nov 3, 2002

The EVAP canister (or purge canister) is a device that filters gasoline vapors from the carburetor and the gas tank through an active carbon filter.The way EVAP works is that fuel vapors from the carb bowl vent and fuel tank vent (if applicable) are stored in the active carbon canister when the engine is not running. A vacuum-switched valve allows the carb to suck the stored vapors in when the engine is running and warmed up. The canister is closed and it absorbs (actually adsorbs) the fuel vapors when they arrive under pressure from evaporation. The canister releases the fuel vapors when a (carb) vacuum is applied when the engine is running. I would take a look at all your lines , looking for blockage. I would also try to determine which line is feeding gas to the leak. I am by no means 100% on top of emissions but give us more info and I bet someone can figure it out.

Jeepster · Nov 3, 2002

Looking at the Haynes chapter on '73's it says this: The EEC ( Evaporative Emission Control ) System is designed to limit the emission of fuel vapors to the atmosphere. It consists of the fuel tank,pressure and vacuum sensitive fuel filler cap, a restrictor bleed orifice, charcoal canister, and associated connecting hoses.
When the fuel tank is filled, vapors are discharged to the atmosphere through the filler tube and the space between the inner fuel filler tube and the outer neck. With this system, when the fuel covers the filler control tube, vapors can no longer escape because a vapor lock is created by the oriface.
When thermal expansion occures in the fuel tank, vapor is forced through the orifice and is drawn into the carburator as soon as the engine is started.
Some models incorporate a fuel bowl vent to direct vapors which collect in the carb back into the charcoal canister when the engine is off
Maintence consists of inspecting the system for leaks and checking the purge valve of the canister for proper operation.
Check all of the clamps and make sure they are all sealing the system (you know yours leaks). check the carbon canister for leaking,overfilling or damage. Its said that the canister is not serviceable and should be replaced (or omitted

;D)

rflud · Nov 3, 2002

He said it was mounted behind the front right wheel?? If we are talking about that funny looking little plastic container, my '73 had it mounted inside the cab in front of the left rear wheel. The body was build with a compartment for this container. No matter where it was mounted it is not necessary if you don't have any smog restrictions. It being a '73 I don't think you should have to worry about any smog restrictions (at least in CA you don't). Get rid of it and cap off the lines.

dksroland · Nov 3, 2002

The 73 has a plastic canister behind the drivers side door stricker post. Stick your head inside behind the driver seat, look just in front of the inside fender well. See the plate thats attached with screws just infront of the fender,inside the truck. Thats one vapor canister. That collects vapors from the fuel tanks and routes them to the charcoal canister,the one you are having problems with behind right front tire. The six way fuel switch you have is like mine I replaced with a three way. I think it went this way,#1 main tank to switch,,#2 main tank fuel from switch to carb,#3 fuel return line from carb back to main tank,#4 auxiliary tank to switch,,#5 auxiliary tank fuel from switch to carb,#6 fuel return line from carb back to auxiliary tank. I think thats how it went. All I know is theres a heck of alotta lines running under there. Way more than is needed. The only way I can see Fuel itself getting into the charcoal canister is backing up through a vapor line somehow or maybe a fuel return line is hooked up to it somehow.Possibly the seller messed with more lines than he thought and has some crossed. As far as getting one of the six way switches, I think BC Broncos may have them for sale or check JBG too. I'll have to get under mine later see what exactly hooks up to my canister. hope this helps. Your problem has got me curious. Good luck.

73EXP · Nov 4, 2002

Mannnn! This is FANTASTIC! I thought the bit on Ebay where they allow sellers and buyers to post "feedback" for each other was the Golden Rule in action- but this is THE TICKET : ) I spent a lot of time working on my prior truck ( the 71) see story here: http://www.broncofix.com/board/viewtopic.php?p=3189#3189 ( including pictures of my 73EXPlorer - more to come as soon as I finish with this fuel line hooey

But I never really had any Q's- that truck was my paragon- under the hood she was like a tractor- SIMple. So this is is dreammmy for me- to have these simple yet complicated Q's and have such rapid response- My thanks again to jeepster- 73wanky-and rflud !! At this point I spent some time fiddling around yesterday. I capped the culprit fuel-line ( yes the one near the charcoal canister

with a big bolt and a hoseclamp, and removed the charcoal canister and drained it, pulled the old six way out of the box ( as with my first EB the owner had tons of extra parts, full maintenance docs, the original brochure, the glove-box manual, window sticker- etc etc etc- WHAT FUNNNN! So - with all of yalls answers I now will approach my mechanic's rack today- he was going to checkerout anyway- and from under the rack ( standing) I feel I'll have a better attitude than when lying in leaves in the cold and dark ( wahhhh- I know- whatever) I will say that I have yet to check out the other cannister behind the driver door striker post- so I'll do that too

thanks~ and another wacky thing I noticed is some plastic cannister with two wires running to it wedged inbetween the left frame of the back passenger seat and the floor and wheelwell- and it's ticccckkkkinG (just kidding) I think it's part of the original owners towing lights... So I'll let you know what I find today in the comfortable setting of the garage. Other plans for this new truck include : rolling her right in the body shop to have her painted ( some kind of stock Ford med. beige - went TOO pale the last time) hence the term milquetoast

also I would like to ask all of your advice on these three points: I may lose some of you here- but here's what I want- Manual Brakes Manual Steering My old three on the tree out of my old truck- I have all of these parts off of my 71- and I know the tranny swap includes a radiator swap-out ( the seller of my first truck put in a radiator that would accomodate manual or automatic- so thats cool- Are these mods from a 71 swapped to a 73 POSSIBLE? Any clue as to what labor should run? I know they may seem foolish to some- but ya can't worry about what other people think AND live your own life- eh?

Again- thanks and I hope someone does the same for you Ash

Jeepster · Nov 4, 2002

questions: yes yes yes but why? ok its your rig....some guys beat themself up trying to get rid of them things.

Rustytruck · Nov 4, 2002

You need to hook up the plastic tank behind the seat if you want everything to work properly as its purpose is to break the siphon in the vent system since it is mounted above the gas tanks. The vent lines from the tanks go up to this bottle and then down to the charcoal filter. Alot of people use to bypas this system when they smelled fuel in the trucks thus causing these problems. If this was an off road veichle only not subject to smog laws you could just cap the vents at the tanks and vent through a vented gas cap which would mean replacing the Gas filler tubes and caps or drilling a vent hole in a non vented cap. allowing the fuel system to vent.

74bronc · Nov 4, 2002

[quote author=73EXP link=board=5;threadid=10851;start=0#80005 date=1036419275] and another wacky thing I noticed is some plastic cannister with two wires running to it wedged inbetween the left frame of the back passenger seat and the floor and wheelwell- and it's ticccckkkkinG (just kidding) I think it's part of the original owners towing lights... [/quote] You didn't buy your bronco from Osama Bin Laden and his Al Qaeda lackeys did you?

73EXP · Nov 4, 2002

I went to my buddy's garage today and he put her up on the rack and adjusted the brakes So far here's what we found so far- 4 these fuel line leaks that I never saw before ( but I WAS parked on mulch.. I can see from under the truck where the "vapor canister" (behind drivers door- behind panel) is leaking, and at he 4 way (replaced the 6 way) tank valve has leaks and although it's all new fuel line, alot of it was within an inch or closer to the HOT flowmasters or exhaust line. Also the original leak at the "charcoal canister" and another place back near the main tank is leaking. So- it's the brilliant "emissions" system as well as the 6 way (replacement 4) that has caused all of these problems- I had the brakes adjusted so no more almost plowing the arm off the toll booth like I did on Sunday

and she was in there from 3pm until 7pm and the total so far is $30 for the brake job.. the fuel line diagnostic is a tradeoff... for the meantime anyway- while my buddy still thinks he's getting parts off of my 71 ( because the title wasnt commuted to a salvage rect for some reason ( w/ my ins. co. ) - my title for my totalled truck ( "diamonded" ( not severely ) I wonder about that... I DO want the 3spd tranny and the steering column out of that- and I still wonder about the power brakes on the 73EXP- ( which though adjusted- have a pedal up in my knee area) Tomorrow I'm back at the fuel line prob. with serious diligence- drain tanks- follow routing- etc- so I'll post what I find in the emissions area then- once I've seen more than the leak it is causing.. And to the q about whom I bought it from, NOHHH- it was a Marine Master Sgt.

A

73EXP · Nov 6, 2002

Daily update- nowww I SEE what's really up under there- as I was told (correctly-*thank you

...plugging the vent line to the charcoal canister only sent the fuel forced by the pressure created by the kinked main line ( now unkinked) to the Evap Can. in wall behind the drivers door.. Though I also need to order stainless (vs OE) fuellines from front to back- this stuff was almost ALL rubber ( SCARYYY- esp. when very close to the flowmasters and exhaust lines..) Those flowmasters GOTTA go- can't stand the racket! So- once I have those in- and the evap and charc. can.s clean and replaced, I should be ok- ( except for that 6 way valve I have ( replaced by seller w/ 4 way)) A thought- since the 6 and 4way valve switches were the "same" - I wonder if the switch handle and ballvalve itself( from the 4way which is in the truck now) could be removed and put into the 6 way??? This would show you that the 6way valve bodies are GOLD- switch working or NOT...

I smell less like Eau de 93 Octane now- but I still smell it in my sleep- My soul is being crushed by driving a GeoMetro in the meantime- but it beats exiting the 73EXP via the ejector seat and self inflicted hole in hardtop due to massive'SPLOSION ! My boyfriend told me the other night that I woke him up when I was talking in my sleep. I had recently replaced the distributor in his AcccKUra. He says I said : " Just HAND ME the DISRIBUTOR! Hand me the distributor- WouldYa?!!" Har- even guys who can't fix cars themselves feel involved while holding onto the parts.. A

Rustytruck · Nov 6, 2002

If you take the valve apart there is nothing in there but standard o-rings and they can be replaced and then you have a new valve. These really are simple ported valves. If you decide to replace these valves get the newer ones from a ford pick-up with dual tanks they are electric and switch the ports and the guages all at the same time and you dont have to lean down and switch the valve at 70 MPH.

73EXP · Nov 6, 2002

But I W A N T to lean over and turn the switch while doing 70mph- SEE- I will put up with that to have a MANUAL switch- SO- does anyone know if the switch ARM and attached ballvalve from a 4 will fit in a 6?

'73 fuel-line PLUMBING PROBLEM- (that 6 way valve)

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