74 steering / wondering

[FORD*DIEHARD]

Finally got everything installed (new hydroboost system. It's a WH HB with the Saginaw pump. The steering colum is automatic column shifter. Rebuilt entire column with all new parts) and took the Bronco out for a test drive. It stops,do not see any leaks, so far success there. While it was down I rebuilt the steering column because it was (rubbing/squeaking) when I turned the wheel. Well during the test drive the wheel still (rubs/squeaks) and I am fighting the Bronco while driving. It's been a while since she has been driven I understand but just do not remember it being this bad. I also was told that my passenger brake light is not working. I replaced the whole unit when I rebuilt the column . I hope these are "common " issues and easy to fix. It has been to long since I have been able to enjoy taking her out.

Still trying to figure out the new layout, trying to find how to post pictures. I have paid. How would I know if it expired and have to renew?

Thank you in advance for your time/help,

Sonny

 

[DirtDonk]

As far as contributor status goes, short of finding a date listing and your control panel (or whatever it’s called now) you just look at one of your previous posts and if there’s still a yellow “contributor” under your username then you’re still good.
That said, I haven’t even looked at mine since the changeover to make sure that that’s still how it’s done. Guess I’ll go do that now!

 

[DirtDonk]

As far as the brake light goes, it could be as simple as a burned-out bulb, or bad or a rusty bulb socket, to as complex as a defective turn signal switch.

 

[DirtDonk]

To your steering problem, just what is it doing that you have to fight?

 

[Hazegray]

How did you tie in your low pressure return line for the hydroboost, a T fitting?

 

[FORD*DIEHARD]

My membership must of expired, I am back to being a Contributor. Just took the Bronco out again for another test drive, did not feel as bad this time but while driving straight I have to constantly turn the wheel to keep her going straight. The rubbing in the steering column probably makes it more obvious (and it is very annoying hearing it run, that's why I rebuilt it but obviously that did not work.) I was hoping to save a little bit doing it myself vs buying a "new one". Has anyone had this issue and ended up buying a "new one"? If you did, what did you go with and are you happy with it or wish now you went with a different one and which one?

Just trying to think of what it "could be", how would you know or able to test the steering box? I know it has nothing to do with the (rubbing/squeaking) from the steering wheel rubbing but for the "play".

I had the front end done prior to the Bronco being down (I had new c bushings installed as well as new trackbar ). I attached photos.

The pump has a dual return so I did not use "T". I attached photos .

If additional info/photos are needed please let me know and I will get those.

As always, thank you in advance for your time/help,

Sonny

 

[FORD*DIEHARD]

My membership must of expired, I am back to being a Contributor. Just took the Bronco out again for another test drive, did not feel as bad this time but while driving straight I have to constantly turn the wheel to keep her going straight. The rubbing in the steering column probably makes it more obvious (and it is very annoying hearing it run, that's why I rebuilt it but obviously that did not work.) I was hoping to save a little bit doing it myself vs buying a "new one". Has anyone had this issue and ended up buying a "new one"? If you did, what did you go with and are you happy with it or wish now you went with a different one and which one?

Just trying to think of what it "could be", how would you know or able to test the steering box? I know it has nothing to do with the (rubbing/squeaking) from the steering wheel rubbing but for the "play".

I had the front end done prior to the Bronco being down (I had new c bushings installed as well as new trackbar ). I attached photos.

The pump has a dual return so I did not use "T". I attached photos .

If additional info/photos are needed please let me know and I will get those.

As always, thank you in advance for your time/help,

Sonny

 

[DirtDonk]

Couple of possibilities. First for the wandering, definitely readjust your tie rod to drag link angle. In other words as we’ve discussed here before, loosen all three of the adjusting clamps, then rotate the tie rod so that the drag link grease fitting points more at the bottom of the radiator. The official angle is 60°, but you can get it pretty darn close by pointing it at the radiator or anywhere behind the bumper.
This serves to make a more neutral feel for the steering, but also helps to align the drag link with the track bar a little better.

And speaking of the track bar, is your drop bracket welded to the frame yet?
It needs to be because if not that tiny amount of flex also adds a little more to your wandering. It’s not much but when you put two things together this can make a big difference.

And speaking of the tie rod… No matter how close to the factory specifications your toe-in setting is, it can always be tweaked slightly to improve the feel of a particular combination of wheels tires and vehicle balance. Yours might need just a little more or less toe-in.
It’s easy to experiment with that aspect by loosening just one adjusting sleeve at a time and giving it a very small turn in the other direction. About an eighth of an turn gives a noticeable difference. And if you want to do a little more, just loose in the other sleeve and give it the same amount. If that’s not working for you try the other direction.

I just went through this again a few months ago and spent a couple of weeks of regular driving trying slightly different toe adjustments.
Well worth the time.

 

[DirtDonk]

For the steering column noise. Looks like your aftermarket steering wheel bell is too close to the intermediate collar. Or whatever it’s called there with the shift indicator on it.
This could also mean there’s a little too much preload on the bearings, so you could experiment with this by loosening the lower collar and letting a little less pressure on the bearings and re-tighten it.
This will both relieve a little pressure and open up that gap a little. But if the difference makes it too sloppy, then you have to re-tighten it and then figure out how to gain some more clearance with that aftermarket part.
Either being able to relieve a little pressure on the shaft and bearings to let it come up slightly, or remove it and file or grind a little off of the lower surface.

Unfortunately my brand new direct fit column has a slight noise in just a certain area as well. In this case though I’m pretty sure it’s not the bearings or anything and is most likely a problem with the aftermarket components of the steering wheel. Haven’t messed with it yet though.
It’s only when I make U-turns that it bothers me, so it hasn’t been a high priority