There are super sticky silicone based lubes specifically for polyurethane, but I think the lube-of-choice for most is just some soft hand soap.;D
Works well, is water soluable so does not make a lasting mess, and does not hurt the poly.
In a pinch though, some of us(%)) have used anti-seize to good effect.
The procedure is harder to explain than to do, but once you see how big of a difference a little bit of bolt tightening does to the angle of the arms, you'll see exactly what we're talking about.
But before you start, verify with careful measurements that both spring towers are of equal height, and just as importantly, both radius arm mounts or equal distances off the bottom of the frame.
Any variation here would possibly be compensated for when working down the C-caps.
Best done with the trailing ends of the arms out of their brackets so you can see the tips as they change height.
There should be a level surface for the tips to sit on. Whether the floor, or jack-stands or some similar surface that is measured to be sure they're at the exact height off the ground. Just make sure that the axle is level to the ground as well, or all bets are off.
Loosen the caps until the C-bushings are floating, then re-tighten gradually, turning each bolt just a little to ensure that each cap is going down with relatively equal gaps top and bottom.
As you do this, you will see the opposite tips of the arms rise and fall as you change from bolt to bolt. Your goal is to keep both arms at an equal height from your reference point.
You can do most of one arm at a time until near the end and then alternate in small amounts, or, like most do (and probably more accurately), a small amount of one arm, then jump to the other arm and alternate bolts there as well so that the arms fall into the same level as you go.
No matter where you start your alternating, as you do make sure to watch the tips closely as you alternate between arms and individual bolts to verify that the tips are remaining at an equal height as they relate to the jack-stands or floor.
Once you've fully closed the cap gaps and have torqued the bolts to spec, both radius arm ends should be flat on the ground. There is a small level of acceptable difference (probably about a 1/4" or so) but the more precise the better.
In theory, you're done.
In theory....
Paul
