'76 steering linkage

[edearho]

Hi all,

Got an old '76 that I believe needs new steering linkage. Looking at the catalogs/websites for Bronco Graveyard and Tom's Bronco parts, I see that I have a choice between a classic inverted Y style or a conversion kit that allows 3 way adjustability. The conversion kit requires the use of a 66-75 pittman arm, but I have no idea what that is. Can anyone shed some light on which one of these kits to purchase? This truck doesn't get off-road much at all if that makes any difference.

Many thanks in advance for any input or feedback you might have.

 

[stock1970]

just go with the classic y style if you dont go off road,

 

[70_Steve]

Hi all,

Got an old '76 that I believe needs new steering linkage. Looking at the catalogs/websites for Bronco Graveyard and Tom's Bronco parts, I see that I have a choice between a classic inverted Y style or a conversion kit that allows 3 way adjustability. The conversion kit requires the use of a 66-75 pittman arm, but I have no idea what that is. Can anyone shed some light on which one of these kits to purchase? This truck doesn't get off-road much at all if that makes any difference.

Many thanks in advance for any input or feedback you might have.

Hi and welcome to Classic Broncos.com!!!

Show me someone who's 76 isn't old!!!

Prior to 76 the Broncos had a standard tie rod and drag link. The tie rod connected the two steering knuckles together and the drag link connected the passengers side end of the tie rod to the Pitman arm, which is the arm connected to the steering box.

For 76 and 77 only Ford used what was called the inverted Y. At stock ride height it was superior to the original t-style in that it reduced bumpsteer. Bumpsteer is the tendency of the drag link to push the steering to one side when the tires hit a bump.

If your Bronco is at stock ride height, and you plan on keeping it that way, then stay with the inverted Y.

If you plan on a suspension lift, the inverted Y doesn't respond quite as well, so you would probably be happier with the t-style.

The pitman arm (the lever arm at the bottom of the steering box) on the 76-77 has a bigger hole at the drag link end than the earlier ones. That's why, if you decided to go with the t-style, you'd need a different pitman arm.

Make sure you let whoever you buy the steering links from that you have a 76. The steering knuckles, at either end of the front differential, are unique to the 76-77 in that the steering "arm" portion of the knuckle turns out towards the tires much more that the earler knuckles. This requires a longer tie-rod than would be stock for the 66-75.

 

[edearho]

This is amazingly helpful, thanks for all the input. I"m assuming that the standard T-style assembly you refer to is the same as the standard tie rod and drag link installed in the 66-65 models? My truck has been lifted already- I think it's a 4.5" lift, but can't be sure. Looking at the tie rod assembly, I'm fairly certain that it's equipped with the inverted Y style. I appreciate the input regarding the pitman arm, the shop I'm likely taking the truck to for this job isn't an old truck specialist in any form or fashion, so I was thinking I'd keep this simple, but now you've given me something to think about. This was the kit I was leaning towards purchasing.

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-12750-steering-rod-kit-complete-1976-77.html

But if I did go with the T-style, would I want to buy this 4" pitman arm from the 66-75 days?

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-12838-4-in-drop-pitman-arm-1966-75.html

Thanks again for all your time and input!

 

[Fireball05]

Not sure where you are located, but if you're interested I have a nice Y-style original linkage from my 76 that I just removed. It is in really good shape. I went with a lift kit and a new steering setup for the reasons Steve mentioned above.

Shoot me a PM if you are interested.

Welcome to the boards!

 

[blubuckaroo]

I always thought our '77 with "Y" steering handled better than any Bronco I had ever driven. That was till I replaced the C4 with the NV3550. Every time I made a shift, the car would bumpsteer when the nose dropped. Pretty annoying when you are driving with one hand on the wheel and one on the stick. Funny I had never noticed the bumpsteer before. If you look at the way the "Y" grometry works, you'll see that the toe-in changes every time the front end dives. I replaced the whole thing with this set-up from WH in about three hours, and that included the alignment. An added bonus is the alignment is much easier now and I can do it at home with a piece of chalk and a tape measure.

http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Tie_Rod_Drag_Link_3way_Adjustable_7677yr
http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Drop_Pitman_Arm_7677yr

 

[conseated T]

Don't want to hijack this thread but I'm interested in where this is going. I'm replacing my drag link on my 77 but I have the old t style linkage. There is only the one adjustment near the right tie rod. The drag link I'm leaning towards is the adjustible one. I don't want to replace all the linkage at this time the drag link seems like it is worn the ends seem tight

 

[airbur]

I had the Y and just last weekend installed this....

http://extremecustomparts.com/i-361167-tie-rod-drag-link-dana-44-1976-1977-bronco-1-1-2-d-o-m.html

Amazing price and quality. You do need to ream the knuckles and pitman though.

 

[70_Steve]

This is amazingly helpful, thanks for all the input. I"m assuming that the standard T-style assembly you refer to is the same as the standard tie rod and drag link installed in the 66-65 models? My truck has been lifted already- I think it's a 4.5" lift, but can't be sure. Looking at the tie rod assembly, I'm fairly certain that it's equipped with the inverted Y style. I appreciate the input regarding the pitman arm, the shop I'm likely taking the truck to for this job isn't an old truck specialist in any form or fashion, so I was thinking I'd keep this simple, but now you've given me something to think about. This was the kit I was leaning towards purchasing.

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-12750-steering-rod-kit-complete-1976-77.html

But if I did go with the T-style, would I want to buy this 4" pitman arm from the 66-75 days?

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-12838-4-in-drop-pitman-arm-1966-75.html

Thanks again for all your time and input!

This discussion can get real involved real quick!

I have no experience with the inverted Y steering with a suspension lift. All I (think I) know is what I've read here, and that is the inverted Y doesn't play nice with a suspension lift.

It would be a big help to know exactly how much suspension lift you have. The stock suspension measured 7" from the top of the front axle tube to the bottom of the frame. Any more than that is the amount of suspension lift.

When a suspension lift is installed the steering geometry changes due to the change in angles of the drag link and track bar. If the angle of the track bar and drag link aren't correct, in relation to each other, you wind up with bumpsteer.

Here's a good link that explains the t-style steering geometry. It has pictures!!! http://bulletproofsteering.com/geometry.html

Without knowing exactly what your current suspension setup is now, it would be impossible to know whether you need a dropped pitman arm or not. Also there are different drop pitman arms...

To keep the steering links close to the stock geometry some people do install a dropped pitman arm in conjunction with a dropped track bar bracket. Lately, and especially if you plan on off-roading your Bronco, it is has become more acceptable to install a track bar riser, on the passenger side of the front axle, rather than the dropped track bar bracket. The added length of the dropped track bar bracket creates more stress on the frame and can lead to a cracked frame. Ask me how I know...

The decisions on the proper way to modify the steering links need to be made by someone with experience. There are countless threads on this forum from people asking for advice on the proper way to change the geometry of their Broncos after a suspension lift and the resulting bumpsteer.

That being said, I'd think twice about having a shop that has no experience with older 4 wheel drive vehicles doing this work.

The link airbur posted is to a type of heavy duty steering setup commonly referred to as the Chevy 1 Ton steering, as it uses tierod ends from a 1 ton Chebby truck, and (somewhat) custom made links. This just happens to be what I have installed on my Bronco.

 

[edearho]

Thank you again for the helpful insight. What resonated with me most is that I think I need a pair of eyes on this situation that really know what they're looking at. I'd rather not buy an inverted Y kit and then find out that the lift requires something different. I found a shop nearby that specializes in 4x4 trucks, so I think I'll swing by there and get some input from them before making any final decisions.

To further complicate matters, I just picked up the truck from a body shop where I was having some light repair work done, and asked the guy there about the tie rod assembly. After inspecting it and having me jiggle the steering wheel while he was underneath, he concluded that the steering box needed adjustment rather than a whole new steering linkage assembly. That would be welcome news, but the last time the truck was up on a lift a mechanic told me that he could jiggle the right front tire back and forth, which led me to believe that the tie rods were shot. Yet another reason to have someone more knowledgeable than me look at the situation and see what he says. I'm sure I'll have more news (and questions) in the days to follow- thank you everyone for your input and advice!

 

[70_Steve]

I found a shop nearby that specializes in 4x4 trucks, so I think I'll swing by there and get some input from them before making any final decisions.

To further complicate matters, I just picked up the truck from a body shop where I was having some light repair work done, and asked the guy there about the tie rod assembly. After inspecting it and having me jiggle the steering wheel while he was underneath, he concluded that the steering box needed adjustment rather than a whole new steering linkage assembly.

The t-style steering is common in many off-road vehicles. Hopefully, by asking the right questions, you can determine how familiar they are with setting up the steering to get the proper geometry.

That method of checking the steering for worn or loose components (one person moving the steering whee with another underneath checking stuff) is the best way to find components that need attention. However, the only adjustment on a steering box is the sector shaft adjustment, and is not the proper way to get rid of excess play in the steering. The box really needs to be rebuilt, then the sector shaft adjustment done to properly align the sector shaft. There are a couple good PS box rebuilders that have been used by members here. PSC and West Texas Offroad come to mind.

 

[edearho]

There is a LOT of play in the steering these days. To the point that I don't like getting the truck above about 30 miles an hour as it's unsafe. Thanks for the continued suggestions. It may be that I need a new tie rod assembly and a steering box rebuild. I'll keep those suggestions for a rebuild in mind after I speak to the folks at the 4x4 shop. Thanks again for your continued help and suggestions!

 

[Fireball05]

Erik,

Since you shared with me that you have a 4 inch lift kit, I officially reject my offer to sell you my y-style linkage!

If you can post some photos of what your steering setup looks like, especially a detailed shot or two from head on, we can give you a good idea of what you may be looking at. Or at least get you pushed in the right direction before you take it into a local shop.

Here is an example of the type of photo that would be most helpful.

 

[DirtDonk]

Something I'll add to what was already said, is that when you do that test that you and Steve were discussing, the full weight of the truck should be on the tires (in other words, "on the ground") to get the full benefit.
With shops, the most common method is to do it on a rack with either the tires hanging in the air, or on an alignment rack where the tires can pivot easily on their pads.
This is find for finding "some" issues, but the only way to do it right with a Bronco is on the ground.
This pits the torque of the steering system against the full weight of the truck, and will highlight every little worn part that might otherwise not be seen. Perfect examples of which are slightly worn tie-rod ends, a cracked frame behind the steering box, and slightly worn trackbar mounts and bushings.

Just "slightly" worn parts are considered useable on most other vehicles, but Broncos don't like a few worn parts working together to make things too loose for comfort.
Even a tiny amount of movement in a trackbar will lead to excessive wandering in lanes. Add to that a couple of slightly worn rod ends and a loose steering box and a loose steering shaft u-joint and some wheel bearings that haven't seen new grease or adjustments in 22 years, and you can imagine what you're going to feel on the road!

Good luck with it. These guys are on the money.
I will add that the linkage we use as our 3-way adjustable conversion, that blubuckaroo linked to, is compatible with the 76/77 pitman arm. So no new arm needed unless you need a dropped arm to replace a stock arm.

The difference, just for your reference (and to add more useless info to your mental filing cabinet!) is that the late-66 to '75 arms had a larger tapered hole where the rod end attaches. Same with the steering knuckle holes where the tie-rod ends mate up.
The '76/'77 on the other hand, used a smaller hole at the pitman arm and the steering knuckles.
Full-size Broncos/F150's had a slightly larger one still. Very early '66 units were slightly different as well.
Otherwise, the end that mounts to the steering box is identical on most Ford arms.

Just so you know... ;D

Paul

 

[edearho]

Thanks Ben and Paul for your continued input. Paul, I appreciate your comments regarding the worn parts- it certainly seems like the steering issues could likely be the result of a number of intertwining issues. When we jiggled the wheel this morning, the car was on the ground and the mechanic told me that the tie rods actually looked ok. I tried to tighten up the steering box this afternoon using an allen wrench, but didn't have much luck.

Ben, I took some photos of the front end with my phone, but I am not seeing a spot where I can upload images that aren't already posted to the web somewhere. Do I need to create a garage entry on this site to link photos directly to a forum post?

Thanks again for all your input and guidance.

 

[BDAZSVT]

I am at the same point. I have a 76 also that will be a street truck no offroad and am having trouble deciding which way to go with my steering. I havea 2.5in lift.

 

[Fireball05]

You can post the images to your garage, or pay $12 and become a site contributor and be able to post pictures directly to the board, where they will live on in eternity for all to see! It's a great way to spend twelve bucks, and I'll personally offer you a money back guarantee that it's the best money you'll spend on your Bronco!

In the meantime, I'll send you a PM with my number and you can text them to me and I'll post them for you.

 

[DirtDonk]

...I tried to tighten up the steering box this afternoon using an allen wrench, but didn't have much luck...

If you mean the top cap stud with locking nut, you don't really want to mess with that unless you really know what you're doing. That's the sector shaft preload adjuster, and except for a very minimal amount, is not meant as the "box tightener" that it's thought to be by many.
Steve83 has posted up some instructions on how to set it up, but there is no rule for using as a way to get rid of play. Excessive play in the box is a worn out box. Usually.

If you made more than about a quarter turn then, you might want to put it back to where it was originally.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

I am at the same point. I have a 76 also that will be a street truck no offroad and am having trouble deciding which way to go with my steering. I havea 2.5in lift.

Well, from most reports here, you may end up changing it out for the other style.
But have you driven it yet? I'd say play with it for awhile to see what you think about how it drives and handles the roads where you are. Several members running the stock linkage on lightly lifted rigs still and doing fine with it.
Unfortunately though, more of those that lift their '76/'77 EB's do end up changing out to the more direct "T-style" linkage.
Especially the aftermarket stuff that's beefier and more adjustable. Meaning more lift-friendly for sure.

Good luck though. Let us know what you think of how it drives so far.

Paul

 

[edearho]

"If you made more than about a quarter turn then, you might want to put it back to where it was originally."

Thanks Paul, I really didn't - or couldn't- turn it at all. It seems locked up pretty tight and I couldn't get any torque on it to turn. I've been looking at rebuild kits for the steering box and they don't seem too expensive. After I get the truck inspected I might go ahead and do that along with a new steering linkage assembly. And a new clutch. And then patch the auxiliary gas tank. And then...