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Air Compressor question

hvanorden

Jr. Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2011
Messages
73
Loc.
Loveland, CO
Can anyone recommend a good air compressor water filter for a decent price? I picked up a Ingersoll-Rand 60 gallon air compressor (used) recently and it came with a Matco water filter on it. But this thing pumps out some serious water when I use it!

It's fine if I let it pump up the tank and then shut off the compressor while using a tool. But if I let the compressor turn on while using a tool it will shoot a ton of water.

What has worked well for you guys? I don't have a ton of money to through at this (the bronco is taking all the funds right now), so I'm hoping there is a decent economic solution. Thanks!

20120921_110107.jpg
 

broncnaz

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
24,341
Probably going to cost you at least $50 or more but i'd get one thats a little bigger than what you currently have. A bigger water seperator will only hold more water it still needs to be drained.
I think that compressor will always build a lot of moisture as the compressor is a bit small for a 60 gallon tank. Especailly if there's a lot of humidity in the air. So in the end as long as your current water seperator is working there no real need to get a new one just leave the drain open a little so the water comes out or install a automatic drain in it so it drains as needed.

Might want to see if theres a drain on the bottom of the tank you may have a lot of water build up in it already thats not helping the issues.
 

ScanmanSteven

Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 19, 2010
Messages
1,129
x2 on the drain. Check near the bottom or on the bottom of the tank. There should be a petcock or valve to drain the water. If it has one and you're suing it a lot you might want to just crack the valve open to drain the excess water. It really shouldn't have a stream, check for a lower drain.
 

74fiberglass

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2005
Messages
900
Move the in -line filter closer to the end of hose if possible I think I read the air cools down or something like that .
 

tinytim02

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2007
Messages
613
I have the IR 5 hp 60 gallon compressor. The drain is on the bottom and it is a pain to get your hand in there to open/close. I removed the petcock and replaced it with a 90 degree fitting, nipple and ball valve. Much easier to drain now. Mine does put out some water as well, but not a lot. I make sure to drain any water out of the tank at the end of the day.
 

miikee73

Shadetree Guru
Joined
Dec 14, 2010
Messages
3,551
Loc.
Aloha
I have an automatic bleed off valve on the bottom of my 60 gal. It has a timer on it that you can set anywhere between 1 and 10 hours to drain water out of the system. I also have a water seperator/oiler,but it doesn't get a lot of water.
 

allenfahey

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 18, 2004
Messages
2,672
As a painter for 20 years or so I know the importance of clean and dry air. What is your budget? The best is an air drier but is way too expensive for a hobbiest. The next best is a desiccant filter but they too are a bit pricey. Next are the type you have now. You might want to try a few other things in addition to the other suggestions already mentioned. Moisture comes from heating of the air as it is pumped into the tank. Then it cools and you wind up with condensation. At one place I worked we had an air drier that would only work periodically. We had large 1 1/2" lines off the compressor that went to the drier. From there it went to the shop in 1 1/2" lines and then to 3/4" drops. The drops were "U" shaped and at the bottom of the "U"'s was a water spigot that we drained the water every day. After that was cheap Sharpe filters kind of like what you have. If we kept the compressor drained, traps drained, and the filter drained we didn't get any water in the lines. At home a have a three stage Devilbis desiccant filter hanging on the wall and I don't get any water but they are about $400.
If I were you I would find where you are going to keep it and use minimum 3/4" pipe and do a few "U" drops with the drains and mount the filter you have now after the drops. The "U" shaped drops will help trap the water. The larger the lines will keep the air cool as it passes thru the lines. If you heat up the air by using a small line like the 3/8" hose you have now you will get additional moisture than what is already produced from the pumping of the air into the tank. Feel the hose there by the tank and you will notice how hot it is. There is alot of friction thru a small hose.

Are you planning on doing any painting? If so now is the time to setup the air hose with HVLP fittings along with your gun.
 
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hvanorden

hvanorden

Jr. Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2011
Messages
73
Loc.
Loveland, CO
Thanks for all the info! I've never heard the idea of putting a U in the line. That's pretty smart! My budget is right around $100. I still need to sell my old compressor, so maybe if I get it sold it will help me buy a better filter.

I planned on running some pipe (probably PVC) across my garage. I have one 25' hose reel on one side and have another 50' reel I need to hang on the other side. I'll definitely buy larger pipe as suggested.
 

bk005

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2011
Messages
366
Loc.
San Antonio
If possible run some of it in 3/4" copper, slant it towards the drops, have atleast one drop before you get to your main outlet. Just try and cool and condense air as much as you can and leave a spot for it to drain.
 

cracker

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 7, 2002
Messages
2,212
Loc.
Pueblo, Colorado
Times whatever, but drain your compressor. With the setup you have, you will get moisture inside of your compressor. Over time, this will rot out the bottom. The cylinde is not a heavy gauge material and alot thinner than you think, it will eventually rust thru if you do not drain it regularly if you use the compressor alot.
 

allenfahey

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 18, 2004
Messages
2,672
Don't use PVC! It is not designed to be used for compressed air. I don't know what it's called but shops use the threaded metal pipe you can get at Lowes or Home Depot.
 

rustbucket

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 22, 2004
Messages
1,579
Here is a setup from TP Tools you can basically copy: http://www.tptools.com/p/99,114_Coalescing-Filter-and-Regulator-Piping-Kit.html

I would run as much line from the compressor to the filter as possible. As mentioned, the hot, moist air cools as it decompresses, and water condenses in the lines. The more line between the compressor and filter, the more water can condense and get trapped by the filter. Start by running the pipe and use your existing filter. If that isn't good enough, you can upgrade, but I think you might be surprised how much better it will be.
 
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hvanorden

hvanorden

Jr. Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2011
Messages
73
Loc.
Loveland, CO
Don't use PVC! It is not designed to be used for compressed air. I don't know what it's called but shops use the threaded metal pipe you can get at Lowes or Home Depot.

Glad you said that. I've been told PVC is Ok to use. I'm hoping to use PVC simply because it so much cheaper. The black metal pipe will be expensive!
 

roan65

New Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2009
Messages
41
Loc.
Alaska
It is recommended to run about 25 to 30 feet of line from your compressor at a slight angle up. This allows enough distance for the air to cool and allow the water to separate out, and with the gradual up angle the water will run back to the tank. Then make sure you drain your tank frequently. At the end of the 25-30 you can add your drop. When putting on drops always go up first and then make a "u" down. It is harder for water to go up, and again will drain back to your tank. At this point you can add an inline water separator.

With the above design it helps remove as much water as possible with least amount of cost and effort. Depending on how clean you want your air depends on how much money you want to spend. The basic water separator/filters work ok and usually cost less than $100. For better filtration and drier air you can get a desiccant water/filters. They work better but can be expensive. Paint shops require clean air and will use multiple desiccant filters with other stage filters, but those set ups can be very expensive.

I use a devilbis qc3 that is a desiccant type filter and is reasonably priced around $150-$200. Summit, amazon, eBay, and others carry them. I would encourage a desiccant filter if you are needing dry clean air.
 

needabronco

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 2, 2004
Messages
6,411
Loc.
Prescott/Farmington
On the cheap, I've used a rubber compresser hose looped 2-3+ times, the plumbed in 2 filters together like your matco filter and had good results. It's a little hokey but it works if your on a budget or simply need a quick solution.
 
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hvanorden

hvanorden

Jr. Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2011
Messages
73
Loc.
Loveland, CO
How come PVC is not ok to use? The reason I ask is because I work at a hotel and we have a large air compressor (much larger than what I have), and it runs our engineering shop and our air powered sheet folder in our laundry room (this uses lots of air). It was piped in with PVC probably about 15 years ago and my engineering manager told me they have never had an issue with it.
 
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hvanorden

hvanorden

Jr. Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2011
Messages
73
Loc.
Loveland, CO
Nevermind, I just Google it and found a bunch of reasons why not to use PVC. I guess steel pipe will be my option.
 
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