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Altenator dead. Lets replace it wih a 3G.

asinor

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 13, 2011
Messages
1,396
Loc.
Tulsa, OK
So my Altenator bit it the hard way today. Locekd up, broke the belt and then overheated.

So, I have to replace it anyway, why not upgrade to an HO 3G altenator. Besides the altenator, is there anything else I am going to need? New brackets, wiring pigtails, changes to the dash?

I currently have an aftermarket ammeter wired in the dash if that needs to be removed/bypassed etc.
 
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asinor

asinor

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 13, 2011
Messages
1,396
Loc.
Tulsa, OK
Found the links for the wiring diagramds and the info from BC Broncos. Just need to figure out the mounting.
 

11wnb

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 3, 2007
Messages
84
When I got my 3G I also took the harness and a couple feet of the charge wire from the donor. I made sure to leave myself a nice long piece of the green with red stripe wire also. The 3G bolted right into the stock brackets on my '69.
 

11wnb

Jr. Member
Joined
Jul 3, 2007
Messages
84
Forgot to mention. I lost function of the original ammeter. I still need to install a volt meter. These alternators put out too much amperage for the OE amp gauge.
 

70_Steve

Old Guy
Joined
Dec 13, 2002
Messages
8,317
When I got my 3G I also took the harness and a couple feet of the charge wire from the donor. I made sure to leave myself a nice long piece of the green with red stripe wire also. The 3G bolted right into the stock brackets on my '69.
Forgot to mention. I lost function of the original ammeter. I still need to install a volt meter. These alternators put out too much amperage for the OE amp gauge.
Yes, the 3G should bolt in using the stock brackets. The bottom hole in the 3G isn't tapped, so you can either use a nut with a bolt, or install a helicoil.

Output of the alternator should connect direct to the BAT side of the starter solenoid. Use a MegaFuse or not... Just cap off the big black wire at the alternator. Remove all of the wiring associated with the stock voltage regulator, except for the Green w/Red stripe wire (904). That is your hot-in-run wire used to turn on the 3G.
 
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asinor

asinor

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 13, 2011
Messages
1,396
Loc.
Tulsa, OK
Yes, the 3G should bolt in using the stock brackets. The bottom hole in the 3G isn't tapped, so you can either use a nut with a bolt, or install a helicoil.

Output of the alternator should connect direct to the BAT side of the starter solenoid. Use a MegaFuse or not... Just cap off the big black wire at the alternator. Remove all of the wiring associated with the stock voltage regulator, except for the Green w/Red stripe wire (904). That is your hot-in-run wire used to turn on the 3G.

Thanks,

Thanks for the info on the mounting, I'll order altenator, pulley and pigtail on Monday.

Yeah, I was reading about the need/not need for the fuse somewhere. I think it was that the voltage was the issue not the amperage. On the other hand, its really not going to hurt anything to have one either.

Will replace it with either an aftermarket voltmeter or have the cluster rebuilt with one.
 

calvin8601

New Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2009
Messages
15
Loc.
Augusta
Dude, just go to the local slavage/u-pull-it yard and grab a couple of alternators there, be cheaper than buying one new. Easiest car I saw was the late 93-99 Taurus 3.0, alt is right on top and easily accessed, plus there was like 10 of them at the yard. Took two of them for ~ $50. Any parts store will check to see if they are working properly, I went to Advanced Auto, they tested it and removed the pulley old pulley and put on the v-belt pulley for me. I plan on trying my hand at cleaning and rebuilding the second one and still be cheaper than buying a new one.
 

707Bronk

Sr. Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2012
Messages
590
There two different housings for the 3G.

There is the Small Case, and Large Case 3G's. The large case has a much larger distance between the top and bottom mounting tangs. This may or may not be a problem. If you are running the passenger side water pump dump then the large case might interfere.

I am not sure which models have the large or small case, but if you get one from a mid 90's mustang, it should be the small case.

I also clocked the case so the wires and plugs were easily accessible.
 
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Greg_B

Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 15, 2010
Messages
2,087
Loc.
Cohutta, GA
I pulled one off a later model Mustang for 30 bucks and had it rebuilt for another 20 bucks with a warranty.

I did have to grind a small section of the housing to get it to clear. Took about 1 minute. Wiring was a piece of cake. One of the best mods ever.

Greg
 
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