Amatuer Attempt at a Buildup (this should be funny)

[Jeepster]

The cam gear was prob nylon from the factory. It fell apart and the PO prob didn't fish the remains of the gear out of the pan. What you have now is the steel replacement. Yes there is a tab on the excentric that fits in a hole on the cam gear. Look to see that the bolts in that area/under gear are tight.

Unless your gonna rebuilt the engine right, dont go looking for trouble. Slap on a stock chain and run it. By the way, how much slack does the chain have?

As far as removing the gasket, I sometimes use a dull razor blade and gently scrape the old gasket off being careful not to gouge the metal. Then polish with some fine emery cloth.

 

[SaddleUp]

I agree. If you freshen up the top end then your lookin for trouble if you don't freshen up the lower end as well. I.E. Might as well pull the whole motor, tear it down, and then rebuild it right. I personally would get it tore down and then run the block and crank by a machine shop and have them check it over. They can tell you whether it needs to be bored or not, etc. which will have an impact on what parts are needed.

 

[Dennis]

Like saddle up said. Take the engine out. Invest in a small numbered punch set and mark the connecting rods/to cylinder. Mark both sides of the connecting rods (main rod, or piston side and the cap) so the go back together the same way. Disconnect the pistons from the crank and remove everything. Take it to a machine shop and have them check the crank, block, rods and pistons (levave these together). A simple hone job on the cylinders may be all thats needed. This will allow you to reuse your old parts. This is commonly refered to as a ring and bearing job. The only things I would replace is the cam & bearings, oil pump, crank and rod bearings, and rings. If a lot of work is needed with your old parts, you'll want to re-evaueate your choices. If your block needs boring, new pistons should be installed. You may just want to buy a short block somewhere.

Unless your gonna rebuilt the engine right, dont go looking for trouble. Slap on a stock chain and run it.

All this being said, there is sound logic in what jeepster is saying. But having your heads done has already changed part of that equation

 

[bronco217]

Hey, where in Fl. are you? I'm in Leesburg. Before you go spending money on a 200,000 mile motor, I'd go looking in the salvage yards for a 5.0 with 60,000 or so on it. You can get a good deal on them, and they'll run forever. I picked one up with 80,000 on it and it has 40lbs. of oil pressure at idle. Not to mention if you're ambitious enough you can pick up all the fuel injection stuff from a 'stang and you won't be disappointed. Best thing I ever did. Tom

 

[blu311]

Woah

That sounds like more than I can chew, or maybe just more than I want to chew. I understand the reasoning but at this point there isn't a whole lot invested in this motor, so no big deal if it goes south on us. And the only reason we sent the heads off is because theres a serious hole in one of the valves. So whats the argument against piecing this thing back together?? The heads will be fixed, new timing chain and gears, maybe new bearing for the crank and cam, and new gaskets. The engine ran just fine before, (with the valve hole) I even argued to not touch any of it.

I'm not looking for serious power at this point, and we have been kicking aroung the idea of buying another 302 and doing somethign pretty nice with it.

Well, I got a few days to think about it

--Still wondering about headers, can I use those 86-93 mustang shortys??

Thanks for the advice

and I'm in the island paradise known as Terra Ceia -(just south of Tampa Bay)

 

[j.r.nice]

....I don't think this was ever answered......the hard plastic pieces in the pan were probably the valve seals that are black and turn brittle with age and break up.

Headers - Without a doubt, James Duff headers are on of the easiest to install and one of the best. They last a long time, and make it easy to remove the starter without removing the header. Something to consider as Ford small block starters are pretty vulnerable to breaking.

Looks good, looks like you're doing a good job. We've probably all been down the same path........brings back memories....

;D

 

[Dennis]

So whats the argument against piecing this thing back together?? The heads will be fixed, new timing chain and gears, maybe new bearing for the crank and cam, and new gaskets. The engine ran just fine before, (with the valve hole) I even argued to not touch any of it.

I think that was Jeepsters argument from the beginning. I don't think you'll do any harm. Its just one of those "while you're in there" things.

I don't think I'd mess with the cam bearings. Just do the lower end while the pans off (crank and rods bearings).

The Mustang shorties exit right above the frame rail on one side (just going by what I've read here). They'll work with modifications. Picture the exiting cone just a few inches above the frame rail. I think you have to get real creative on how you bolt the rest of the exhaust up to the header.

I hope this helps.

 

[Cavalry]

I dont see and respirator in your sandblasting pic. If you are not using one you should. Silica has a mean way of rotting your lungs out....do a search on Silicosis. Also get a sandblast hood. they are cheap to buy, much cheaper to replace the lenses, certainly much more comfortable, and much less gets in you ears and hair!

 

[SaddleUp]

Woah

That sounds like more than I can chew, or maybe just more than I want to chew. I understand the reasoning but at this point there isn't a whole lot invested in this motor, so no big deal if it goes south on us. And the only reason we sent the heads off is because theres a serious hole in one of the valves. So whats the argument against piecing this thing back together?? The heads will be fixed, new timing chain and gears, maybe new bearing for the crank and cam, and new gaskets. The engine ran just fine before, (with the valve hole) I even argued to not touch any of it.

I'm not looking for serious power at this point, and we have been kicking aroung the idea of buying another 302 and doing somethign pretty nice with it.

Well, I got a few days to think about it

--Still wondering about headers, can I use those 86-93 mustang shortys??

Thanks for the advice

and I'm in the island paradise known as Terra Ceia -(just south of Tampa Bay)

Piecing it back together is fine if you just put a new chain in or just have the heads rebuilt. If you rebuild the entire top end of the motor then it can end up getting expensive if for instance the oil pump is weak or fails. You could end up 6 months down the road either replacing the entire motor or rebuilding it the way it should have been done in the first place. As to swapping in an EFI motor it probably would have been less work than what you've already done had you gone that route originally. The originally 5.0 I put it mine cost about $600 to do including the original donar engine (Paid $200 for the entire car). The hardest part of it was rewiring the motor which took an entire day the first time. (I've since rewired it again to reroute the wiring which took 2 days and I've swapped to a 5.8 instead of the 5.0) Before deciding that this is too much of a bite look over some of the EFI swap articles that have been done for Early Bronco's. You might find that it is not as big of a bite as you thought it would be.