another bright IDEA : engine seal

[CrazyHorse]

:'(Went to my buddies shop today to change out the rear engine seal..Dropped the pan wich was easy( 3" lift,only) Unbolted the rear cap..Easy, used everything I could find to get the old seal out..NOTHING worked!!! Loosened ALL bearing caps,dropped the oil pumpand pickup, still no give. Used a sweet dental pick and only got pieces out. Now MUST I PULL THE TRANNY OFF???? I hate mondays! Will it make it easier to release tension from the crank to let it drop? I was doing it anyway to clean off the new clutch i installed 1 year ago.I had oil drippin from everywhere around the bell housing so I thought to change the seal...PLEASE GIVE ME SOME LIGHT AT THE END OF THE TUNNEL.

 

[CrazyHorse]

PLEASE.........ANYONE?????.If I win the lotto I'll buy you a night at the playboy mansion!!!

 

[broncnaz]

Try using a heavy coat hanger or brazing rod to drive the seal out once you get it far enough out grab it with pliers and pull be sure to put some oil on the crank side of the new seals or you'll burn them up and have to do it again

 

[Gordys74]

I've done this a few times in the past. As I remember, I loosened the main bearings a little, removed the rear one (of course) then used the new seal to push out the old seal. This is the two piece kind, I assume, the old rope kind you have to take the tranny out.

IIRC, when installing the new ones, I offset the mating joints of the seal a little so they do not line up with where the bearing housings meet.

Hope this helps, but it may not.

 

[BwoncoHowie]

Try manually turning the crank at the same time in the same direction you are pulling/pushing the upper half out. I agree with using brass rod, it's softer and won't scratch the crank surface

If it has a rope seal, it may still have the no-spin spike up in there, in which case you will have to pull the trans and FW, and lower the crank. Might even be better doing that one on an engine stand b-cuz the crank wont drop too far with a timing chain wrapped around the snout and rods attached.

BH

 

[flousberg]

I had the original rope seal when I did mine. There was a pin on the bearing cap that has to be removed but not on the block. The seal should come out. It might be the clutch and tranny that is holding the crank up. Have you tried releasing the clutch. It doesn't have to drop very far.

 

[supermottl]

I did this, but I was doing the tranny at the same time....
Try taking the tranny cross member bolts out of the frame. But, first, but a jack up on the tranny or t-case, then lower the jack slowly. The weight of the tranny/t-case, will want to tilt the motor down and enable you to get at the upper seal...
good luck..

 

[Lttrbox]

I have seen at a local part shop a cable looking device. It has a soft metal curved shape end that feeds through one of spaces in the seal. The other end is basically a stop. It appears that the curved end feeds through the seal, the stopper end butts against the seal and you pull on the cable. I havent used one, but it seems that this might help ya out. Check Checker, Autozone, Napa, someone should have this thing.

 

[BwoncoHowie]

[quote author=BwoncoHowie link=board=5;threadid=18817;start=0#msg143988 date=1055829849]
Try manually turning the crank at the same time in the same direction you are pulling/pushing the upper half out. I agree with using brass rod, it's softer and won't scratch the crank surface

If it has a rope seal, it may still have the no-spin spike up in there, in which case you will have to pull the trans and FW, and lower the crank. Might even be better doing that one on an engine stand b-cuz the crank wont drop too far with a timing chain wrapped around the snout and rods attached.

BH
[/quote]

Ok my mistake, Knoxbronc says there is no spike up there so go with the first suggestion.

BH

 

[CrazyHorse]

THANK YOU GUYS!!!!! You are appreciated! Im going to go ahead and drop the tranny a little and see if this works. If not , It's all coming out. I'll let you know what happens.