OP
OP
Oakland Bronco
Sr. Member
Haha...but the sharpie wont' do
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Fix Motor Mount
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Ford 6R80 6 spd
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Another question for the paint gurus
- Thread starter Oakland Bronco
- Start date
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2003
- Messages
- 3,973
We got it under control.
werock71
New Member
Allen, I never mentioned anything about e-coat. I had to say something because it's the second time you brought it up. Hopefully your not confusing ecoat with etch primer.
Your now saying you use the wash primer before the other product you recommened-- so I'll go with that for the sake of not debating that point futher. The PPG product you just listed also states "for optimum corrosion protection, pretreat the substrate with one of our other products...". I work in the optimum protection arena, so that may be where our friction has developed. Good'nuff or "possibly works well" won't do for me. I can however see the cost effectiveness in the automotive industry.
Your now saying you use the wash primer before the other product you recommened-- so I'll go with that for the sake of not debating that point futher. The PPG product you just listed also states "for optimum corrosion protection, pretreat the substrate with one of our other products...". I work in the optimum protection arena, so that may be where our friction has developed. Good'nuff or "possibly works well" won't do for me. I can however see the cost effectiveness in the automotive industry.
werock71
New Member
Didn't mean to confuse you guy's... much. ;D
Let me give you the reasoning behind my reccomendations and you can see how they apply to you.
1) Not many people have the ability to sandblast a full dash. But regardless, the second that metal is blasted white clean, you start the corrosion process. Also, yard sandblasters aren't well known for keeping their water traps clean. So you need to apply a protective coating on the bare steel the day it is blasted. Wash primer is easy to apply and will give you weeks of protection while you finsh up preping some other parts.
2) Sanding the steering column smooth will more than likely produce some bare steel around any sharp edges. While you have the wash primer out, go ahead and spot wash prime the bare areas. Won't hurt a bit to get it on the rest of the column.
3) My choice for fiberglass is epoxy primer. Since I need to mix some up to spray a couple parts, I'd go ahead and hit the dash and the column also. Take about 10 minutes and will add significantly to a guality job.
4) Sealer: Surfacers/sealers have a much tighter molecular structure than general purpose primers. Specifically, they aid color holdout and surface smoothness (little orange peel). Why bother? The sandblasted surface will have a .05-1.25 mil surface roughness from the blasting. That blasted surface will want more primer applied in order to "look" like the other parts being coated. If not enough sealer alone (with no other primer applied) is applied to the dash, it will appear less glossy than the other parts because the sealer was sucked into the blasting profile of the dash.
If all parts looking the same was not the focus of this project, I'd probably not responded with a second posting.
Allens recommendations are easier to accomplish, cost effective, and will more than likely lead to satisfactory results. There, I just talked myself into taking Allens advice. Let the project commence.
Let me give you the reasoning behind my reccomendations and you can see how they apply to you.
1) Not many people have the ability to sandblast a full dash. But regardless, the second that metal is blasted white clean, you start the corrosion process. Also, yard sandblasters aren't well known for keeping their water traps clean. So you need to apply a protective coating on the bare steel the day it is blasted. Wash primer is easy to apply and will give you weeks of protection while you finsh up preping some other parts.
2) Sanding the steering column smooth will more than likely produce some bare steel around any sharp edges. While you have the wash primer out, go ahead and spot wash prime the bare areas. Won't hurt a bit to get it on the rest of the column.
3) My choice for fiberglass is epoxy primer. Since I need to mix some up to spray a couple parts, I'd go ahead and hit the dash and the column also. Take about 10 minutes and will add significantly to a guality job.
4) Sealer: Surfacers/sealers have a much tighter molecular structure than general purpose primers. Specifically, they aid color holdout and surface smoothness (little orange peel). Why bother? The sandblasted surface will have a .05-1.25 mil surface roughness from the blasting. That blasted surface will want more primer applied in order to "look" like the other parts being coated. If not enough sealer alone (with no other primer applied) is applied to the dash, it will appear less glossy than the other parts because the sealer was sucked into the blasting profile of the dash.
If all parts looking the same was not the focus of this project, I'd probably not responded with a second posting.
Allens recommendations are easier to accomplish, cost effective, and will more than likely lead to satisfactory results. There, I just talked myself into taking Allens advice. Let the project commence.
bk005
Sr. Member
Painting threads/forums are like ancient confucius statemnt: Life is really simple, but we insist on making it complicated. - Confucius
Diesels love their oil like a sailor loves his rum.. Why is that Captain Ron... I dunno Boss, I dunno
Diesels love their oil like a sailor loves his rum.. Why is that Captain Ron... I dunno Boss, I dunno
OP
OP
Oakland Bronco
Sr. Member
I appreciate everyone taking the time to provide their opinion on this issue. Much appreciated!
werock71
New Member
Oakland: Hopefully at the very least I have given you food for thought, and slightly increased your finishing knowledge base. I'm just trying to pay forward all the great knowledge from some very experienced Bronco people on this great board. Hope your paint project goes well.
allenfahey
Bronco Guru
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2004
- Messages
- 2,672
These guys are the closest to Leesburg. They sell Dupont, Spies, and BASF and carry everything related to auto body. Let me know if you go there and I'll call ahead for you to get my discount.
Pro Finsihes
125 Hirst Road
Purcellville, VA 20132 Zoom
Phone: (540) 338-7100
E-mail: purcellville@profinishesplus.com
This place you can get the prep solvent I refered to
Keystone Automotive - Sterling
23750 Pebble Run Dr
Sterling, VA 20166
Local: 703-661-0894
