Hi, as I am slowly restoring my '67 Bronco I was wondering should I be using anti-seize on the bolts as I am replacing them. Is there any harm in putting it on every bolt or are there situations where I shouldn't use it. Also, which type of anti-seize should I be using for general bolts that are not in high heat situations, copper based or nickel based. Thanks for your help, Mark.
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anti-seize lubricant application
- Thread starter MLGross
- Start date
tirewater
Sr. Member
I tend to use anti-seize on bolts that need to be removed more frequently, such as lug nuts. For bolts that don't get removed as often I use medium strength (blue) loctite - which is also a sealant and helps prevent rust and corrosion.
suckerpunched
Sr. Member
- Joined
- Aug 24, 2006
- Messages
- 882
I use a little bit of nickel based on almost everything.
Be careful with that stuff, as soon as you open the can, the next thing you know is that $hit is everywhere!
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- Nov 3, 2003
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- 48,143
What they all said!
I actually prefer the high-heat stuff. Not because everything needs, or can benefit from it. But because one medium size can will last most people's lifetimes! And you don't want too much of that stuff around to get on everything either.
One can is simpler, but I am still using the old silver stuff on everything because my dad bought the can back in about '72 and I'm still using it.
As the old Brill Cream/Brylcreem ads used to say... "A little dab'll do ya'!"
To your question, you don't "have" to use it on every bolt. But to my way of thinking especially the bolts you're likely not to touch in the next 20 years can benefit from a little protection and future-proofing.
But if you have any modern products using stainless hardware you absolutely MUST use anti-seize on the threads.
And as everyone said, a very little goes a long way.
Paul
I actually prefer the high-heat stuff. Not because everything needs, or can benefit from it. But because one medium size can will last most people's lifetimes! And you don't want too much of that stuff around to get on everything either.
One can is simpler, but I am still using the old silver stuff on everything because my dad bought the can back in about '72 and I'm still using it.
As the old Brill Cream/Brylcreem ads used to say... "A little dab'll do ya'!"
To your question, you don't "have" to use it on every bolt. But to my way of thinking especially the bolts you're likely not to touch in the next 20 years can benefit from a little protection and future-proofing.
But if you have any modern products using stainless hardware you absolutely MUST use anti-seize on the threads.
And as everyone said, a very little goes a long way.
Paul
I use the GM Delco anti seize. You brush it on the threads and let it set for a couple minutes and it dries so when you are installing the bolts there won't be a mess. Ken
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2017
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- 1,291
I must be using to much because a can wont last me but a couple years. Never broke the bolt after slathering it with the copper stuff either
Steve83
Bronco Guru
It doesn't belong on everything; particularly NOT on lug studs or head bolts. They should be installed clean & dry.
This shows the common types of anti-seize:
(phone app link)
But threadlocker (blue or red) is also an effective anti-seize, as well as being a thread sealant. So for body bolts (that are subject to vibration & flex of the body panels), I'd use blue threadlocker rather than anti-seize lube.
This shows the common types of anti-seize:
(phone app link)
But threadlocker (blue or red) is also an effective anti-seize, as well as being a thread sealant. So for body bolts (that are subject to vibration & flex of the body panels), I'd use blue threadlocker rather than anti-seize lube.
blubuckaroo
Grease Monkey
Very few of my fasteners go in without anti-seize, thread-loc, or thread sealant.
They all have an application.
The problem is they all affect torque values to some degree. If it's a critical torque, always refer to a torque chart that has the dry, oiled, and anti seize torque value adjustments.
They all have an application.
The problem is they all affect torque values to some degree. If it's a critical torque, always refer to a torque chart that has the dry, oiled, and anti seize torque value adjustments.
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2005
- Messages
- 6,065
Torque is a finicky thing and not the most accurate way to measure fastener preload. That said, it is the most convenient method for mechanics to use to install nuts and bolts, so that's what get's used. With that said, Steve83 isn't wrong as far as what the OEM's suggest about "clean, dry threads" for torque specs, however how many of us have clean, dry threads? I don't intend to swap out my wheel studs and lug nuts every time I remove my wheels and tires with new OEM parts, so I use anti-seize to keep everything happy...mostly myself.
Most modern wheel studs and lug nuts use various anti-corrosive plating (mechanical zinc plating) options with high-pressure lubrication and self-healing properties. Most of our rigs have no such thing and have either plain or electro-zinc plated fasteners, which have much lower corrosion resistance and higher friction.
There are some pretty good fastener engineering books out there are both interesting and informative if you're into that kind of thing. That said, for how prevalent screw type fasteners are in everything, there's still a lot of room for interpretation. At the end of the day, it's all about achieving the proper preload/stretch...if you can do that, you're probably golden. Vibration, galvanic corrosion, and other concerns can crop up and cause unexpected problems. I guess if it were simple, you would just have some torque tables and call it good, but instead you have engineers who's sole purpose is to design and apply the appropriate fastener to the appropriate application, and even they get it wrong sometimes.
Most modern wheel studs and lug nuts use various anti-corrosive plating (mechanical zinc plating) options with high-pressure lubrication and self-healing properties. Most of our rigs have no such thing and have either plain or electro-zinc plated fasteners, which have much lower corrosion resistance and higher friction.
There are some pretty good fastener engineering books out there are both interesting and informative if you're into that kind of thing. That said, for how prevalent screw type fasteners are in everything, there's still a lot of room for interpretation. At the end of the day, it's all about achieving the proper preload/stretch...if you can do that, you're probably golden. Vibration, galvanic corrosion, and other concerns can crop up and cause unexpected problems. I guess if it were simple, you would just have some torque tables and call it good, but instead you have engineers who's sole purpose is to design and apply the appropriate fastener to the appropriate application, and even they get it wrong sometimes.
Says the guy from the south....It doesn't belong on everything; particularly NOT on lug studs or head bolts. They should be installed clean & dry.
This shows the common types of anti-seize:
(phone app link)
But threadlocker (blue or red) is also an effective anti-seize, as well as being a thread sealant. So for body bolts (that are subject to vibration & flex of the body panels), I'd use blue threadlocker rather than anti-seize lube.
Come to the north east, they use some nasty shit on the roads, nothing comes off easy.
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Steve83
Bronco Guru
Modern OE-quality (OEM) lug nuts are not as expensive as you might think.
(phone app link)
Neither are replacement lug studs, which are easy to change on the rear axle just by pulling the wheel & drum; and not much extra work next time you already have the fronts apart.
But you don't have to change them every time you take a wheel off to have "clean dry threads" - a blast of air; a shot of brake cleaner; or at worst, a few seconds each with a wire brush. You should clean the WMSs now & then, anyway.
(phone app link)
BTW
We have mud down South, and it eats steel almost as fast as your northern salt. But no matter where you wheel, there are applications for anti-seize lube, and other applications for threadlocker. Don't blanket the truck with either one - use each where needed.
(phone app link)
Neither are replacement lug studs, which are easy to change on the rear axle just by pulling the wheel & drum; and not much extra work next time you already have the fronts apart.
But you don't have to change them every time you take a wheel off to have "clean dry threads" - a blast of air; a shot of brake cleaner; or at worst, a few seconds each with a wire brush. You should clean the WMSs now & then, anyway.
(phone app link)
BTW
We have mud down South, and it eats steel almost as fast as your northern salt. But no matter where you wheel, there are applications for anti-seize lube, and other applications for threadlocker. Don't blanket the truck with either one - use each where needed.
Justafordguy
Bronco Guru
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2009
- Messages
- 6,253
That is exactly what I was going to say, It's just like hot sauce. ;D
I agree. I have used Anti-seize on wheel studs for almost 40 years with no adverse problems. Like all things just use a bit of common sense. ( not used much in today's age)
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2003
- Messages
- 48,143
I put a quick shot of oil from the trusty old oil can on every wheel stud I ever worked on. Dad taught me that and it's served me well.
I don't remember him telling me exactly why, but after all these years I'm still assuming it was to keep rust, or galling at bay so removing and replacing lug nuts in the middle of nowhere would never be an issue.
Maybe there's a different dynamic to lug nuts staying tight when it comes to modern aluminum wheels when compared to old steel ones, but nothing bad has ever happened to me (at least not yet) for me either way.
I did start using anti-seize more recently because it's handy and does the same thing. But I did not stop using oil. Just use either one now. I tend to prefer oil still though, because the other stuff is so messy!
I'm intrigued by the "dry" stuff mentioned previously. But may never get the chance to try it out if I can't use up all of my existing stash!
Paul
I don't remember him telling me exactly why, but after all these years I'm still assuming it was to keep rust, or galling at bay so removing and replacing lug nuts in the middle of nowhere would never be an issue.
Maybe there's a different dynamic to lug nuts staying tight when it comes to modern aluminum wheels when compared to old steel ones, but nothing bad has ever happened to me (at least not yet) for me either way.
I did start using anti-seize more recently because it's handy and does the same thing. But I did not stop using oil. Just use either one now. I tend to prefer oil still though, because the other stuff is so messy!
I'm intrigued by the "dry" stuff mentioned previously. But may never get the chance to try it out if I can't use up all of my existing stash!
Paul
So it sounds like most people use anti-seize on most bolts. A few suggest using a medium (blue) thread locker. My question is if the thread locker acts as a rust inhibitor like anti-seize then why not use just thread locker on most bolts?
lot of good replies there. never seize is just a thread lubricant which will give you a more accurate torque. manufacturer recommendations are always best as far as thread lubricants. old catipillar diesel engines service manuals recommended never seize for head bolts so you never no for sure were you can and cant use it but i have used for many years on engines and chasis parts and would recommend its use
