Axle Question, Did I Get Hosed? - (kinda long)

[Scotty]

I know ya'll love photos so much, so this post is loaded with them.

Here's the story:
In early December I came across an ad on a local forum for a Dana 44 and a 9in from a 66-77 Bronco. The ad specifically stated the year range (66-77), that the axles both had 4.56 gears, and that the 44 had disks (meaning 76-77). Both assemblies were complete and they wanted $150 each. Well, if it's an Early Bronco width Dana 44 with disks, $150 was steal, right? I already had a 9in BB housing and third member, but I figured I'll come across someone that will need it someday. So, $300 wasn't a bad price for both... I should have taken a tape measure; the full-width 44 looks A-LOT smaller with radius arms, steering linkage and a sway bar bolted up to it. They offered the calipers and I accepted, but it's been two months, so I've given up on that.

So, the question is, "Did I get screwed?", but it becomes, "What do I do with the axles now?" I figure the 44 is perfect for narrowing and the WAH, but I still would like your recommendations.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Front end stuff, w/ auto-locking hubs.

Yes, It's an HP 44, it's just upside down in this photo.

Underside of 44 diff housing, any significance?

Yes, the c-bushing wedges are cast.

EB 9in in foreground, more recent purchase in back.

Full width axle bearing, I guess the seal is pressed on? Seals on both sides need replaced.

So, what do you think? Any recommendations for axle housing narrowing in the Denver area?

Thanks Again - Scott

 

[broncnaz]

I'd say your pretty much got screwed but then again, like you said you have a good canidate for a WAH and you have the rear center section with matching gears all you lack is 31 spline rear axles hopefully you do have 4.56 gears in both otherwise you really got screwed.

Unless I'm missing something that was a full time set up not auto locking hubs.

 

[SaddleUp]

The previous post is correct. Those are full time hubs not autos. It doesn't take much to put manual hubs in there instead though. The rear housing can also be narrowed and is more stout (See how the center section is in both pics). When I converted my rear to 35 spline I also used a 79 (Or thereabout) housing narrowed to the EB width which looks pretty close to what you have there. If the ends are torino style then Explorer Disk brakes bolt right up to them.

For the front you could do a WAH to narrow it or just use the knuckle out to use the disk brakes. You would need to pull your hub lockouts and put them in the hubs instead of the full time plug in them now but other than that it should be pretty much a bolt on swap.

The short side front axle will often fit in the eb housing. (Mine has one in it right now but it is being replaced with a new chrome alloy I have setting here) If you want to save a few bucks the rear 31 spline axles can be cut down and resplined to get 31 spline axles in yours. If you currently have 28 spline then you might be able to use the carrier since it needs to be changed for 31 spline axles.

Did you get screwed? Yes and No. Yes, as this is not what it was suppose to be. No, because you can still work with it and use enough from it to make up for the cost. (The disk brake assy. alone is probably worth $300) If you want to do a HP frontend then this will work with the WAH. If the rear housing is cut down then it will be a more stout housing than yours is. You just need to be more ceative how you use it. If you decide you don't want to use it then you can always dump it on someone else here that simply wants to put full size axles under theirs. (Which is also another option for you)

 

[jason]

i don't think you got screwed at all. i would give $300 for that deal right now!

 

[Scotty]

Thanks for the replys. When the guys I bought them from said they were auto-locking hubs, I took them at their word. I did learn otherwise as I disassembled them. I got both assemblies complete, minus the calipers, so I'm okay with what I have. The ad on the forum was pulled shortly after the purchase, where the sellers usually just let the ads naturally expire and disappear. I think these guys know they misrepresented what they were selling and were trying to cover their backsides.

Honestly, I'm not feeling screwed, but I wanted your take on it. It's a $300 learning experience, and I have learned a valuable lesson. I believe that didn't overpay for what I got, but I really wish I'd received what I thought I was purchasing. Anyway, when I calculate it on per-hour basis with all of the time thinking about and working on this stuff, it seems to become pretty cheap entertainment.

I do have the 31 spline axles for the rear end; the plan will be to have them cut down and resplined and have the housing narrowed. I do have a pair of third members and four drums as well, only no photos of them.

Right now, my project plan is to build a rolling chassis with the complete drivetrain, do all of the body work on a rotisserie, and drop the body on the chassis. At that time, I should have an almost complete chassis with no body, but I know where there is one sitting on the ground in OK. I can probably get it for the cost of removing it from the property.

Thanks Again
Scott

 

[raleigh_bronco]

how long did it take you to paint that garage floor? did you use the kit by Behr?

 

[Scotty]

The floor is an epoxy paint availabe at Home Depot. Sorry, I can't remembr the name. The kit comes with a mild citric acid to wash the floor and a mix & use epoxy paint. You use a watering can to put down the acid, let it soak for about a half hour, rinse, then squeege or sweep it off and let it dry. I let the floor dry for a couple of days, swept it off and painted it. The instructions say to let it cure for about a week before parking on it; I moved my tools and benches in after a couple of days. I did the floor as I was moving into the house, so it wasn't a big inconvenience.

It holds up well to the various fluids that seep out of the Bronco. The dirt, oil, and mag-chloride they put on the roads here in the winter don't stain it, but it does scratch. I did do a little damage to it dragging a frame across the floor and unloading a Dana 44. I would put this covering down again in a garage used for storage and normal use, but I would prefer something a little more heavy-duty for the kind of work I've been doing.

Oh yea, PVC pipe primer will stain this paint, but then again, what won't it stain?

Scott

 

[BUCKETOBOLTS]

I know of people who have paid $300 for just a center piece for a 9". I think you did pretty good. Have you considered just doing a full wideth conversion?

 

[76Broncofromhell]

The disc brake setup alone is worth more than $300 so don't fret. The high-pinion setup and the 31 spline 3rd member are also worth some money. I think the screwing went the other direction....because you got a deal

 

[Scotty]

Thanks for the positive responses, I'm feeling better now. ;D ;D

I thought of going full width, maybe on my next project. My rear fenders are still uncut, and they'll stay that way. I think it would look more than a little odd to have the tires sticking out from, and rubbing on, the uncut fenders.