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before i start!! any help?? one new question!!!

andy

Jr. Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2003
Messages
111
Loc.
Charleston
going to replace valve covers; origional intake and 2bbl carb, with 4bbl intake and carb; exaust manifolds with headers; (think that is about it) in the next week or two. anything eslse i should do while i am there? need anything other that gaskets? i have never done this before but i will have a mechanic at my disposal in the afternoons! any thing you guy wish you had done different or in a different order while in this process? anything will help.

i did not pay attention to the position of the drivers side header on the brake hose! now i have to move the brake hose around the header i know this is no that big of a deal. here is the stupid question, is there one place better than another to start moving brake lines, is any arear easier to bleed? also the fuel line runs about 3 inches (i guess) one the frame next to the header collector. is that a problem, too close? dont know much about all of this stuff but i am quickly learning and appreciate everyones help!!!

andy
 
Last edited:

wildbill

Old Bronco Guy
Joined
Jun 29, 2001
Messages
6,885
;D ;D ;D The most important thing is to make sure everthing is clean and use a little RTV when you put it back togeather and you should have no problems good luck. ;D ;D ;D Bill :cool: :p %)
 

bronco italiano

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 1, 2004
Messages
2,026
If your going through all that trouble use high quality gaskets.
For the valve covers use the fel-pro (the best one that have steel center with silicone blue outer) make sure the bolts have wave loc washers and use a inch pound torque wrench. Also make sure the valve stem seals are healthy otherwise this is the time to replace them.
For the intake- use the good fel-pro perma torque gaskets and use rtv for the front/rear (don't use the supplied cork gaskets). Again us wav loc washers for the manifold bolts.
For the exhaust- use the copper or aluminum gaskets with the stage 8 locking bolts, make sure to use never sieze on those bolts too.
Remeber- if your going to go through all the trouble to take the extra 20-30minutes to capture the details such as using a cleaner tap for all bolt holes, thoroughly clean your parts and gasket mating surfaces and check for surface imperfections before install. I either use hydralic thread sealant (if a bolt will be in an oil area) or never-sieze in the dry high heat areas as my norm. This ensures a great install and easy teardown if needed. You won't regret it. Good Luck BI
 

GRIZZLY

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 31, 2001
Messages
3,221
Loc.
Lakewood, CA
If you use the polished aluminum Ford Racing high rise valve covers put the drivers side cover on with bolts. If you loctite in studs it's a real beach to clear the brake bracket when bolting it in.
 

ROKDWLR

Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 3, 2003
Messages
1,016
Loc.
Stockton, Ca.
I did the same thing earlier this year along with wires, cap & rotor. I'd already replaced the hoses but did replace the valve guide seals. Does your rig smoke when you start it? It takes a little time but was worth it. Not a puff now. 1st pic is what I took off including the broken valve guide seals. 2nd shows the new stuff with a temporary air cleaner.
 

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JWMcCrary

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 14, 2004
Messages
5,001
I just finished doing about the same thing as you are planning. I can post some before and after pics tomorrow.

Below is a list of what all I changed.

Edelbrock performer intake
Edelbrock 500 cfm carb, electric choke.
Edelbrock low profile proflo air cleaner (just barely clears hood)
Edelbrock tall cast aluminum valve covers
Carter electric fuel pump
Holley fuel pump safety switch
Fuel Pump wiring harness with relay
MSD Probillet Distributor
MSD 6A Ignition Control
MSD Blaster II Coil
MSD 8.5 Plug Wires
Autolite Plugs
Duff Headers
Flowmaster Super 40 mufflers
Also replaced all hoses, belts, vacumm lines, thermostat, etc.

The engine had just been rebuilt stock before I bought the truck. It runs really good now. ( I don't have the mufflers on yet, I have them, just have to get to the muffler shop and have exhaust run)
 

72_EB

Contributor
66to77
Joined
Feb 4, 2003
Messages
4,963
Ditto. I like a little copper Permatex RTV around the waterjacket ports as well, but definetely ditch the cork end gaskets and use RTV. The Tom Monroe book "How to rebuild your small block Ford" gives great tips for doing this too. I highly recommend it!

bronco italiano said:
For the intake- use the good fel-pro perma torque gaskets and use rtv for the front/rear (don't use the supplied cork gaskets). Again us wav loc washers for the manifold bolts.
... thoroughly clean your parts and gasket mating surfaces and check for surface imperfections before install.
 
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