bent pushrod / loose rockers -- help!

[67EB_in_619]

Ok.. so helping out a fellow brutha, we found that he had a bent pushrod and some loose rockers (could wiggle them a little). The rockers were pretty worn so he is going to get all new pushrods and new rockers and we are going to replace all of them.

What is the proper way to install/adjust the rockers? Does the motor have to be running to do this? Is there an adjustment factor or is it just the pushrod length and rocker that determine clearance?

Any suggestions are appreciated, and if anyone in SanDiego has time and expertise available to supervise, it would greatly appreciated and rewarded with cold frosty barlry pops!!

Thanks!
-Matt

 

[Southerner]

I don't know what type engine your talking about, but on my 351W, I used the method of slowly twisting the pushrod with my fingers while tightening the rocker nuts until the pushrod stopped twisting (with engine off). This ran good for awhile then, the nuts loosened up and I also bent some pushrods. An older guy told me to torque them down to 25 lbs (I think that's right) and I would have no problem. I did and haven't had a problem since. Hope that helps.

 

[RajinCajun]

Best way is to adjust with the twist method to start off, then get a set of the oil deflectors so you can start it up with the valve cover off. Then you loosen it up until it starts tapping, then retighten until it quits tapping then go 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Usually 1/4 is for stock engine and 1/2 turn for higher revving race applications (or if you are like me, I like to mash the long skinney pedal hard when I get into something that wants to hold me up).

Good luck

 

[cynrays]

The machine shop told me that on my 77 302 to tighten them all to 25 lbs. No adjustment on the 77 model. I did that and no more adjusting. I don't know whether you can do that on the other models...

 

[67EB_in_619]

so sounds like 25#
or
twist .. tighten .. start .. loosen .. tighten .. add 1/4 turn

the second option being quite messy.

any other ideas? comments about the above?

Thanks!
Keep the ideas coming!!

-Matt

 

[broncnaz]

Need more info. It depends on wether you have adjustable rockers or positive stop type you can tell by the stud if the shank is bigger than the threads then its positive stop which almost every 302 will be unless someone converted it or replaced the heads.
If you have positive stop type you can just torque them down or there is a method to it to help keep from pulling the studs or getting a incorrect torque reading its pretty much the same as setting the adjustable type by making sure each lifter is on the base circle of the cam basically meaning that the valve is closed. I'd just bolt them down I've never had any problems like that. you should be good with 25 ft lbs

 

[bax]

Bax

To add to the last post, how to know if the valve you are adjusting is on the backside of the cam. when the ex valve just starts to move down ( open ) adjust the intake to zero lash. rotate until intake valve goes all the way open and just starts to move up (Closing ) adjust the ex valve to zero lash. Repeat until all are done. Go back and turn each rocker nut 1/2 turn. you are done, replace v cover and fire up.
Other motors have rocker assemblies, these are the ones you just tighten down.

 

[74bronc]

every 302 i have ever worked on didn't have adjustable valves, like Chebby's do. The only adjustable 302's I've seen have aftermarket studs and rockers. Chances are all you need to do is crank them down until tight, like others have said

PS. Matt, I think I owe you lunch next time I am in SD!