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Body Dimensions / Measurements - Schematics?

rguest3

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I have looked in the Tech section and did not find what I'm looking for, but I think I have seen schematics with body Dimensions/measurements included. Installing new body panels and need something to go by.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thank you.
 

JAFO

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I know if you search the word 'measurements' you will get hits on recent posts. I recently posted some. On my phone and just can't search the forum well with it or I would find the thread.
 

JAFO

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I guess I was thinking of the above and these below. Not sure it has what you want though. If not some of us could take measurements. Just tell us what you need. I think for most the door opening ends up being the most critical measurements. The under seat floor panels are the width they are and define the width of the truck. Then you need to make sure the width at the top of the door posts is correct.

You get the door openings exact. Front door posts exact. Get the width worked out between door posts. Then kind of work from there piecing it all together.

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=260074&highlight=body+measurement

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=262441&highlight=measurements

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=261352&highlight=measurements
 
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rguest3

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Those are the type of measurements I am looking for.

No measurements that Ford put out? What would Dynacorn go by to put their bodies together?
 

JAFO

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I guess I was thinking of the above and these below. Not sure it has what you want though. If not some of us could take measurements. Just tell us what you need. I think for most the door opening ends up being the most critical measurements. The under seat floor panels are the width they are and define the width of the truck. Then you need to make sure the width at the top of the door posts is correct.

Sorry if I am talking too basic. Looking at your garage you seem to have a lot of Broncos. Not exactly sure where you are starting regarding the Bronco in question. You get the door openings exact. Front door posts exact. Get the width worked out between door posts. Then kind of work from there piecing it all together. If you look in my garage you can see the pics of what I started with. The only way it came back together was getting the front door posts, kick panels and floor under the seat all in. Then the rest was worked out from there, doing sections at a time trying to maintain alignment.

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=260074&highlight=body+measurement

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=262441&highlight=measurements

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=261352&highlight=measurements
 

JAFO

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Those are the type of measurements I am looking for.

No measurements that Ford put out? What would Dynacorn go by to put their bodies together?

My take on it as I was bringing mine back together was the floor section under the seats defined the width of the truck. And as I said earlier, the door openings must be exact. So once that is correct the other panels just fit into place. The way I did it was getting the core pieces I listed above in place, then I replaced the whole rear interior panels. Then the core support and inner fenders. Then the cowl and window frame. Then both outer lower rear quarters. Then one taillight section. Along the way did door skins. There was a lot of installing and removing the doors, hood, tailgate and fenders as I went. Very time consuming process depending on how much is being replaced.
 
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rguest3

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I am starting all over again on the body for my 76. The original tub turned out to have a lot of patches, repairs that were done terribly and too many rusted areas which was not good enough for me to start a restoration.

So, I got a complete unassembled body kit. Looking back now, I should have saved up for the complete body tub instead. More money up front, but about the same in the end.

The Dynacorn body kit does have the Firewall/Cowl section complete in about 10 pieces already welded together, so that is a great starting point. They also include a one piece floor pan that further helps the process and deletes some additional work.

The measurements posted for the door openings are a great help as well. Obviously the measurements overall had changed some over the years and do not need to be as exact as I would have expected. We can mock up as we go and fine tune the fit as well.

The Body Kit is at the body shop for assembly, but I have been taking my 77 over, which has all original body, for comparison and measurements. This gives me a better standard than the 76 body which is not so good to go by.

Keep you posted.
 

JAFO

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Please do keep us posted. Post some pics or a build thread at some point. I'm actually considering restoring another Bronco now. I think it would go better (hopefully faster) the second time around. Would like to do a half cab basically setup just like the one I have now regarding suspension and such. I might know where there is a good titled frame.
 
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rguest3

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JAFO - I do have a build thread on this 76 Bronco, I just have not updated at all recently.
 

rydog1130

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My advice, start with the pre-assembled floor pan first. That piece is the center of the universe on the bodies. Everything is welded to those inner rockers. Start there, then build forward. Once your front end is done then hang your doors and build your bed. I highly recommend self tapping sheet metal screws to hold everything in place until you know you have it right

Heres a slide show that demonstrates how these guys built there tub

http://midlifeclassics.com/slideshow...owBODYKIT.html

also theres this one, try not to let it discourage you!

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=262893
 
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rguest3

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rydog1130 - I agree. The One piece floor and the Cowl/Firewall piece are the core to the whole build. I spoke with the guy from Velocity Restorations and he had to modify every piece to this kit to make it fit right. This is NOT good news to me at all. But after just a short start on this, I can see what he is saying.

My plan is to build the front first, Kleecko/screw everything then move to the rear. Gonna take some time though.

I am building the body on the frame that it will go on (Nice Platform) and I have the original tub to help go by as well. So, maybe I am ahead a little.
 

rydog1130

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rydog1130 - I agree. The One piece floor and the Cowl/Firewall piece are the core to the whole build. I spoke with the guy from Velocity Restorations and he had to modify every piece to this kit to make it fit right. This is NOT good news to me at all. But after just a short start on this, I can see what he is saying.

My plan is to build the front first, Kleecko/screw everything then move to the rear. Gonna take some time though.

I am building the body on the frame that it will go on (Nice Platform) and I have the original tub to help go by as well. So, maybe I am ahead a little.


yes, that last link is the velocity raptors build. I called him too and he was very informative and helpful. I asked him for a few pics on the bed area and he got them right over. It looks intimidating and yes he had to cut some things. I've had to trim a few things as well but it hasn't been anything major. I myself am practically building a tub from scratch because ive had to replace so much sheet metal. Ive taken measurement of my old panels vs the new ones and I'm no really finding a whole lot of discrepencies, my #4 channel support is spot on, and the length on my inner quarters is spot on too, also my repo fenders are mating up nice to my original grill/core support. My kick panels and inner rocker had the holes pre stamped so that helped with alignment and I only had to trim the length on my fender aprons about 1/2". Theres a little bit of a method to the madness on putting these things back together you just have to start and not be afraid. If you run into issues there are more than enough people on here to give you advice if you run into problems or get hung up! heres a link to my build and its not super detailed but it'll show you how I went about fixing things.

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=249119

I would def follow the order I mentioned, most body pro guys will agree, if you get that floor pan in then your kick/cowel you can then get your hood on w/ the latch and your front core support/grill with mounts in place so that your grill and hood line up, then you can get your inner fenders in and then make sure your fenders line up, then your door post, then hang your doors, then your bed/strikers and you should be golden. ps...get yourself lots of clamps and screws and be prepared to take things apart and put them back together multiple times in order to get it where it needs to be ...good luck
 
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I very much want a 1st generation Bronco. I have a used & abused 78. What's the possibility of mounting a glass body on that frame... dimensions wise?
 

sykanr0ng

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Aug 11, 2014
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I very much want a 1st generation Bronco. I have a used & abused 78. What's the possibility of mounting a glass body on that frame... dimensions wise?

The frame of the '78 Bronco is wider and longer than the frame of an early Bronco.
Making an early Bronco body fit will be more work than finding an early Bronco, and give results that you will probably not be as happy with compared to having a real early Bronco.
 

rydog1130

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The frame of the '78 Bronco is wider and longer than the frame of an early Bronco.
Making an early Bronco body fit will be more work than finding an early Bronco, and give results that you will probably not be as happy with compared to having a real early Bronco.

x2 on what he said....I thought there was a build thread where someone put wider axels under there EB?
 

sykanr0ng

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That is what is called 'full width' axles, fairly common in more serious off road builds.

I would strip the '78 for parts, the power steering is the hard to find and expensive box of the two used to build a 4x4x2 steering box for example.

The '78 and '79 axles are less favored because the wedges for the radius arms are cast not welded like earlier years, but if you are not changing the width it is not a problem.
 
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